Sandblasting original intake
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,938
Likes: 1
From: San Diego CA
Sandblasting original intake
Guys I'm split between 2 jobs, one the torquer2 to performer swap this weekend and the long term back to stock job. I have the 68 intake on the garage floor and used this paint remover that did a great job of bleaching my garage floor and blisters on my ankles from the spray lifted by the wind but still have old paint on the intake, actually 2-3 coats of Chevy orange. I'm about ready to say F&%$ it and pay to have someone sandblast it. Noticed some corrosion on the water side and wonder if I purposely leave the holes uncovered and allow them to blast sand in the water/ fuel ports can I safely assume I can remove any sand residue with several shot of air from a HP air tool or am I setting myself up for disaster?
Also the old manifold mounted oil filler is pretty beat up. Probably better to get one of the new chrome ones. Always liked that nolstalgic look. Anybody know of someone cheaper than CC?
Also the old manifold mounted oil filler is pretty beat up. Probably better to get one of the new chrome ones. Always liked that nolstalgic look. Anybody know of someone cheaper than CC?
Last edited by Cali,68,L-79; Aug 17, 2004 at 11:02 PM.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 565
Likes: 0
From: I'm bleeding, making me the victor!
After you get it sandblasted wash it with some hot soapy water and use a hose nozzle to rinse it out/off with. You'll be just fine. One more option is to take it to a machine shop and get it hot tanked. Good luck on your project!
Race Director
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 10,258
Likes: 1
From: Calif.
Originally Posted by PRESSURERAT
After you get it sandblasted wash it with some hot soapy water and use a hose nozzle to rinse it out/off with. You'll be just fine. One more option is to take it to a machine shop and get it hot tanked. Good luck on your project!
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,938
Likes: 1
From: San Diego CA
Originally Posted by billlambeer
i got a siphon feed sanblaster for about 20 bucks from home depot..works great if your gonna stick with sandblasting..maybe consider doing it yourself..
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 2,609
Likes: 12
From: Massapequa Park NY
Most machine shops will have a blasting cabinate as well. Shouldn't be more than $50 to have it hat tanked & blasted clean. Use glass bead & it will look brand new.
I use aluminum oxide on cast parts only if they are very rusty, and then follow up with glass bead. Parts come out looking like new.
Jim
I use aluminum oxide on cast parts only if they are very rusty, and then follow up with glass bead. Parts come out looking like new.
Jim
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 2,897
Likes: 0
From: Moon Township PA
I would not sandblast my intake without having it hot tanked first. I just don't think that you can get all of the sand out. And I do NOT want sand floating around in my engine. JMHO.
Gary
Gary
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 958
Likes: 1
From: In the Beautiful Shenandoah Valley of VA
I recently had my LS-4 cylinder heads and intake manifold hot tanked at a machine shop to clean them up and it ran about $45 for all. The hot tanking did not strip off all of the paint, so I had them media blast (glass bead) the intake in their cabinet. The cost was an additional $20. They also steam cleaned the intake again afterwards to thoroughly remove any residue. Glass beading is the way to go. It stipped all of the rust, paint, oil and other residue so clean that the intake began rusting again within the hour here in our high humidity part of the country. I stongly encourage it if you want a spotless intake prior to painting.
Steve
Steve
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,938
Likes: 1
From: San Diego CA
Originally Posted by Steve's74
I recently had my LS-4 cylinder heads and intake manifold hot tanked at a machine shop to clean them up and it ran about $45 for all. The hot tanking did not strip off all of the paint, so I had them media blast (glass bead) the intake in their cabinet. The cost was an additional $20. They also steam cleaned the intake again afterwards to thoroughly remove any residue. Glass beading is the way to go. It stipped all of the rust, paint, oil and other residue so clean that the intake began rusting again within the hour here in our high humidity part of the country. I stongly encourage it if you want a spotless intake prior to painting.
Steve
Steve
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
I don't hesitate to glass bead. It will remove everything without hot tanking. I do remove the heat shield on the underside of the intake if it has one. After bead blasting I reload the machine with new #6 glass shot and redo for a new like finish. New glass beads bring up a shine that you can not get with old dirty beads.
I thorough clean the intake after and use compressed air in every hole, corner, everywhere until I am convinced of no trapped particles.
You blast the inside as well as the outside. Do not mask anything.
I thorough clean the intake after and use compressed air in every hole, corner, everywhere until I am convinced of no trapped particles.
You blast the inside as well as the outside. Do not mask anything.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 268
Likes: 0
From: Mechanicsville VA
Sandblasting (or bead blasting- works a little smoother on aluminum...) won't affect the engine internals if you clean it by the methods listed above. Blocks are sand-cast, and they manage to get that stuff and metal filings out, so you should be OK with the intake.
I found that blasting is rather therapeutic as you see lots of progress in a short amount of time.
I found that blasting is rather therapeutic as you see lots of progress in a short amount of time.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 188
Likes: 0
From: La porte Texas
I have a 25 yr. old Holley street dominator that I did some work on the runners and plenum and port matched . I then did what Norval was saying and bead blasted it inside and out. I was going to shoot it with clear but I liked the dull alm. finish so much I left it that way. It still looks good after a couple of years.
