How big can a 350 go?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Norwalk Ct
How big can a 350 go?
I have a 350, 4 bolt mains block that I want to do something with, fancy building a stroker (on a reasonable budget) and then putting my original motor to oneside.
Is 383 the biggest they go??? Any info, tips on building such an engine would be greatly appreciated.
thanx
Nick
Is 383 the biggest they go??? Any info, tips on building such an engine would be greatly appreciated.
thanx
Nick
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well, not a cheap upgrade, but I know companies are making 427's out of 350's now. Cheap would be the 383 combo.
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From: Living in the Hartland
Not sure you can go over 396 with a stock 350 block, the 427's use a stock 400 block (might even get to 434) but the 450 def needs an aftermarket 400 block and can go to 454 but then you are at the max for the cyl bores and would need a resleeve once the bore is toast.
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From: Republic of Texas
Originally Posted by Pettee17
I know some go bigger than 450"
True but you must use an aftermarket block such as Dart. I think he's asking how big a stock block 350 can go. Most 427ci are using 400ci blocks, but most guys around here are boring and storking thier 350's to 396ci's.
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From: Butler Pa
i wanna do something to my stock L-48 350. but am not engine knowledge-able.
help! what can i do? who can do it for me? what is it gonna cost. would like to keep it reasonabley priced. this will probably be a on-going project kinda thing. are there things i can do one step at a time and see any improvements?
HELP HELP HELP
help! what can i do? who can do it for me? what is it gonna cost. would like to keep it reasonabley priced. this will probably be a on-going project kinda thing. are there things i can do one step at a time and see any improvements?
HELP HELP HELP
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Norwalk Ct
Thanx for the repsonses guys.
I remember that the old way of taking a 400 crank and putting it in a 350 required the use of a 400 felx plate and dampner, is that true of the "stroker" kits?
I have seen 383 stroker kits for $650 - $700.....how much for the 396 version...and a name of a seller of such a wonderful thing would be much appreciated.
cheers,
Nick
I remember that the old way of taking a 400 crank and putting it in a 350 required the use of a 400 felx plate and dampner, is that true of the "stroker" kits?
I have seen 383 stroker kits for $650 - $700.....how much for the 396 version...and a name of a seller of such a wonderful thing would be much appreciated.
cheers,
Nick
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From: Republic of Texas
Originally Posted by lvrpool32
Thanx for the repsonses guys.
I remember that the old way of taking a 400 crank and putting it in a 350 required the use of a 400 felx plate and dampner, is that true of the "stroker" kits?
I have seen 383 stroker kits for $650 - $700.....how much for the 396 version...and a name of a seller of such a wonderful thing would be much appreciated.
cheers,
Nick
I remember that the old way of taking a 400 crank and putting it in a 350 required the use of a 400 felx plate and dampner, is that true of the "stroker" kits?
I have seen 383 stroker kits for $650 - $700.....how much for the 396 version...and a name of a seller of such a wonderful thing would be much appreciated.
cheers,
Nick
http://www.speedomotive.com/chevy_395.htm
http://www.larrysperformance.com/dat...ekits_main.htm
Thread Starter
Safety Car
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From: Norwalk Ct
Corey thanx for the links.
Corvus , there are a couple of reasons I prefer the "big mouse" route.
One is that I like the way my car currently handles, so putting the extra weight of a big block up front may effect that.
Two is that I already have the 4 bolt block, plus I have a set of heads, and if I take the intake, carb,billet pulleys and brackets from the motor currently in my car I just need to buy the stroker kit and a cam.
Third is that I like the idea of putting 396 badges on the hood and looking at the confused faces as the look at the small block
cheers
Nick
Corvus , there are a couple of reasons I prefer the "big mouse" route.
One is that I like the way my car currently handles, so putting the extra weight of a big block up front may effect that.
Two is that I already have the 4 bolt block, plus I have a set of heads, and if I take the intake, carb,billet pulleys and brackets from the motor currently in my car I just need to buy the stroker kit and a cam.
Third is that I like the idea of putting 396 badges on the hood and looking at the confused faces as the look at the small block
cheers
Nick
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From: Little Torch Key FL
What would the bore/stroke be on a 396 small block? Is there any cam/connrod clearance issues? Does anyone know what all must be done to the block to make this work? bore size/clearancing etc etc??
Thanks all.
Thanks all.
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From: Living in the Hartland
Originally Posted by Pettee17
What would the bore/stroke be on a 396 small block? Is there any cam/connrod clearance issues? Does anyone know what all must be done to the block to make this work? bore size/clearancing etc etc??
Thanks all.
Thanks all.
For a 383 using a 3.75 stroke crank you can grind a slight bit off the rod bolt heads to clear the cam (sounds like a
but unless you are all out racing it won't affect em), grind the bottom of a few of the cyl's to clear the stroke of the crank and you also need to make sure there is snough clearence on the oil pan rail, something Speedomotive forgot to do on my 383 short block, 
slight bit of flash/over casting that the rod hit on start up, must have cleared by a c@#$ hair when it was first put together but not enough once the eng was fired.A small base circle cam can be used to eliminate the need to grind the rod bolt heads if that bothers you, agian we are talking about less than a .10" at a 45 degree angle. I have mine apart right now and can post a pic if you like.
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From: Little Torch Key FL
Originally Posted by Fevre
For a 383 using a 3.75 stroke crank you can grind a slight bit off the rod bolt heads to clear the cam (sounds like a but unless you are all out racing it won't affect em), grind the bottom of a few of the cyl's to clear the stroke of the crank and you also need to make sure there is snough clearence on the oil pan rail, something Speedomotive forgot to do on my 383 short block, slight bit of flash/over casting that the rod hit on start up, must have cleared by a c@#$ hair when it was first put together but not enough once the eng was fired.
A small base circle cam can be used to eliminate the need to grind the rod bolt heads if that bothers you, agian we are talking about less than a .10" at a 45 degree angle. I have mine apart right now and can post a pic if you like.
but unless you are all out racing it won't affect em), grind the bottom of a few of the cyl's to clear the stroke of the crank and you also need to make sure there is snough clearence on the oil pan rail, something Speedomotive forgot to do on my 383 short block, slight bit of flash/over casting that the rod hit on start up, must have cleared by a c@#$ hair when it was first put together but not enough once the eng was fired.A small base circle cam can be used to eliminate the need to grind the rod bolt heads if that bothers you, agian we are talking about less than a .10" at a 45 degree angle. I have mine apart right now and can post a pic if you like.
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From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
396 is the way to go.
4.030 X 3.750 = 383
4.030 X 3.875 = 395
4.030 X 4.00 = 408 or something close to that.
If you buy correct rotating assembly you don't have to grind the rods. The pan rails have to be ground for rod clearance.
I would not recommend the 4 inch stroker kits if your using a stock 350 or 400 block. I preferr to only build 396's
4.030 X 3.875 = 395
4.030 X 4.00 = 408 or something close to that.
If you buy correct rotating assembly you don't have to grind the rods. The pan rails have to be ground for rod clearance.
I would not recommend the 4 inch stroker kits if your using a stock 350 or 400 block. I preferr to only build 396's
Last edited by gkull; Aug 24, 2004 at 04:17 PM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Norwalk Ct
gkull, thanx for the info.
Other than the "possibility" of oil pan rail clearance issues, are there any other pitfall's I should be aware of?
Also do these stroker kits use 400 chevy style damners and flexplates?
thanx
Nick
Other than the "possibility" of oil pan rail clearance issues, are there any other pitfall's I should be aware of?
Also do these stroker kits use 400 chevy style damners and flexplates?
thanx
Nick
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From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Just say "NO" to externally balanced stroker kits that have to use 400 style dampers and flex plates.
That's what all the cheaper kits use. The grinding the pan rails isn't a big deal. They make stoker oil pans. on the longer strokers you can also get away with denting the oil pan for clearance.
That's what all the cheaper kits use. The grinding the pan rails isn't a big deal. They make stoker oil pans. on the longer strokers you can also get away with denting the oil pan for clearance.
