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Question re: braided fuel line installation

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Old Aug 26, 2004 | 01:53 AM
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From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
Default Question re: braided fuel line installation

Am I making this too difficult?? I've spent three hours trying to get one fitting on!! The manual shows someone casually cutting (hacksaw) through some tape on the line (Eaton Aeroquip -8AN), then simply applying a drop of oil and slipping the fitting on.

What I ended up with is bleeding fingers, frayed stainless steel line about an inch in diameter and frazzled nerves!!! Aaagghh!!!

Can anyone give me some tips or tricks? I might get out my cutting wheel tomorrow, but that really isn't my problem. It seems that even if I get the first half of the fitting over the tubing, the insert part is too hard to insert and screw in - it wants to push the fitting off of the tubing. It can't be this hard - no one would ever use the stuff...
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Old Aug 26, 2004 | 02:36 AM
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You must make sure the tape is tightly wound on the end you cut off as not to fray the braid. Now carefully take it off and hope the braid doesn't fray. Now lube it all good, that means, hose fitting and the threads on the 2 fitting parts. Put on gloves and stick the hose in the fitting, dead parallel or it'll fray instantly. Now it's just a matter of slightly twisting but keep pressyre on the hose and fitting ot it'll come apart again. You only have 1 chance.

Oh yea, the larger AN hose and hose ends ar far easier to assemble

Last edited by Twin_Turbo; Aug 26, 2004 at 03:29 AM.
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Old Aug 26, 2004 | 07:35 AM
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It is hard enough to do with a machine. I have done a few that way. We cut them off with an abrasive cutoff saw, then we have a machine that feeds the fitting into the hose while rotating it. Try TTs method, sounds like it should work with some practice. Good luck.
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Old Aug 26, 2004 | 07:43 AM
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Oh, and I use a cut off also, use the thinnest disc you can find and spin it at high revs so it will slice through instantly without fraying. Then BEFORE assembling the stuff RINSE the inside of the hole clean, as well as where the cutoff went through. You do not want all those little rubber particles to plug up or contaminate whatever you are connecting the hose to. After assemble rinse the hose assembly again and blow clean w/ compressed air. You can pressure test the hose (the manual says to) but most people don't.
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Old Aug 26, 2004 | 09:15 AM
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We make those lines everyday here at work and i can tell you a hacksaw screws everything up.you need the speed to keep from fraying the ends.
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Old Aug 26, 2004 | 10:41 AM
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Use the cut-off wheel, works best. Also, I used electrical tape on the end and cut through the tape and the braid. This left about 5/16" of tape, the rinse is very important-keeps carb jets clean-and then with a little lube I was able to push the braid into the fitting. At this point, while keeping pressure into the fitting, I was able to remove the tape and force the braid the rest of the way into the fitting.
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Old Aug 26, 2004 | 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by herrelld
Use the cut-off wheel, works best. Also, I used electrical tape on the end and cut through the tape and the braid. This left about 5/16" of tape, the rinse is very important-keeps carb jets clean-and then with a little lube I was able to push the braid into the fitting. At this point, while keeping pressure into the fitting, I was able to remove the tape and force the braid the rest of the way into the fitting.
I put the nut in the vise, do not hold it by hand, put it in the vise then with lube on the inside of the nut and on the braided hose push the hose while twisting slight until the hose is seated in the nut, remember it is held in the vise. I then start the well lubed barbed end into the nut still held in the vise and maintain pressure on the hose keeping it seated.
They are aluminum so make sure you don't have any fine stainless wires in the thread or it will screw them up and lots of lube, do not do it dry.
I have over 40 ends on my car and never had a problem with any of them.
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Old Aug 26, 2004 | 01:17 PM
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I have a special vise also but with the larger hose ends (-10, -12, -16 and so on) I feel it's easier to do by hand and faster too. The large hose end leaves you enough room to grab it good.
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Old Aug 26, 2004 | 05:58 PM
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From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
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Thanks everyone -

After a night of sleep, my blood pressure has returned to normal.
I'll try it again with a new, sharp cutoff wheel.

Hmm...no wonder they have machines that do this! I wonder what they cost? If it's less than a quarter-million, it might be worth it...
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Old Aug 26, 2004 | 07:37 PM
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WEll, a dude called usgis sells those swagers on ebaymotors, they're only like a couple of thousand bucks or as little as 1500...minus the jaws
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Old Sep 1, 2004 | 07:44 PM
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From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
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Just an update -

I used a little of everone's advice and have now developed my "method". It works great! Got several hoses assembled now. The main things I did:
- put tape on as tight as possible
- Get thin, abrasive cutoff wheel (lots of sparks and smoke from rubber!)
- lube up fitting and hose
- use twisting motion as you push it on

Like TT says, you only get one chance!!

Of course, (Murphy's Law) when I was in the fitting shop getting some more parts, the counter guy mentioned they are getting a new style of hose. It's supposed to be as strong as the SSteel, but half the weight (Kevlar or something) and much easier to assemble....

Thanks for all your suggestions...
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