Bleeding Brakes
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 195
Likes: 21
From: Upstate SC
Bleeding Brakes
I installed a new master cyl and rebuilt all four calipers and replaced all the brake lines except the long ones. I followed the bench bleeding sequence on the master and it worked just like it should have. When I got everything hooked up and ready to bleed, using a vacuum bleeder, I used the normal sequence of farthest to closest. After working on the right rear for some time and getting at least a pint of fresh brake fluid all the way through and still tons of bubbles I decided to check the manual. Lo and behold, our beloved C3s are different and you start with the left rear. I moved to the left rear and bled for a long time with the same results. I never let the master go empty. There are no leaks anywhere that I can see. What am I doing wrong? Does it just take a long time with fresh empty calipers?
Racer
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 478
Likes: 3
From: Huntsville AL
I had the same problem with mine using a vacuum pump and one way bleeders. I got most of the air out but it took a loooong time and ended up bleeding the normal way afterwards. I would suggest getting most to the air out with vacuum, then try the old fashoned way with someone pumping the breaks for you, worked for me.
YBnormal...drive a vette
YBnormal...drive a vette
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,135
Likes: 2
From: Dayton Oh
I had similiar problems. Got pizzed and left until the next morning and repeated manual bleeding without a problem. Must have had some bubbles somewhere and letting sit overnight allowed them to collect enough to be bled out.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,681
Likes: 200
From: Waterford Mi
When you use a vacuum pump it will draw some air in from around the bleeder screw threads so it looks like you still have air in the lines when you don't. I recommend using a pressure bleeder. They push oil from the master cylinder to the back. No doubt when you are done.
