Edelbrock Performer Intake
The rebuilt motor has been bored 30 over and has a better cam then the orig one, (Melling) with a 2000-4500 power range (I think). I have the orig heads also 172/150 with z28 springs. I also put on a reman Q-jet to try and get better performance. I also put new advance weight kit in the dist. I don't seem to get the performance that I feel I should be getting.
I've been told that changing the orig intake and carb will be a day and night difference. I'm also thinking of porting another pair of heads I have to see if I can gain more that way. The heads are the same as orig 172/150?. Is it worth porting these stock type heads? I still have the stock exhaust manifolds with a Y pipe. I know that can make a difference too. It's on the list to replace.
Your opinions will be greatly appreciated........ Paul in Naples, Florida






So...you think I'd notice a big difference getting away from stock intake and carb?
Tom... How does your car sound with the headers and flowmasters? Does it have that cool throaty/tinny sound? I love that sound with a cam! How much did the headers and exhaust cost you? was it bolt on or custom?
Eddie... What carb are you using?
Any other input on the heads...anyone?
Also recommend headers to improve exhaust flow. You will need to tune the carb since any generic reman carb will not have an ideal jetting combo.
Recommend Lars' paper at www.corvettefaq.com for tuning info.
The Q-jet is a good carb, and with the right rebuilt will give great performance. I went with the holley because I can work on them and get all kind of parts for them easily.
The more you add to a sb, the better each part will perform. Play with it and read books by good builders.
Good luck, Tom
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The rebuilt motor has been bored 30 over and has a better cam then the orig one, (Melling) with a 2000-4500 power range (I think). I have the orig heads also 172/150 with z28 springs. I also put on a reman Q-jet to try and get better performance. I also put new advance weight kit in the dist. I don't seem to get the performance that I feel I should be getting.
I've been told that changing the orig intake and carb will be a day and night difference. I'm also thinking of porting another pair of heads I have to see if I can gain more that way. The heads are the same as orig 172/150?. Is it worth porting these stock type heads? I still have the stock exhaust manifolds with a Y pipe. I know that can make a difference too. It's on the list to replace.
Your opinions will be greatly appreciated........ Paul in Naples, Florida
My next mod will be the headers.Ron
The rebuilt motor has been bored 30 over and has a better cam then the orig one, (Melling) with a 2000-4500 power range (I think). I have the orig heads also 172/150 with z28 springs. I also put on a reman Q-jet to try and get better performance. I also put new advance weight kit in the dist. I don't seem to get the performance that I feel I should be getting.
I've been told that changing the orig intake and carb will be a day and night difference. I'm also thinking of porting another pair of heads I have to see if I can gain more that way. The heads are the same as orig 172/150?. Is it worth porting these stock type heads? I still have the stock exhaust manifolds with a Y pipe. I know that can make a difference too. It's on the list to replace.
Your opinions will be greatly appreciated........ Paul in Naples, Florida
Original heads are 882 castings, I believe, and are known to be prone to cracking. I would not waste time or money on these heads.
Did you follow Lars' timing paper on how to adjust the advance curve?
Didn't know Mellings made cams! Thought they were strictly oil pumps. You really should get the cam specs.
Best bang for the buck will be true dual exhaust.
But the car runs GRRREAT.
I've been told that changing the orig intake and carb will be a day and night difference. ...
I still have the stock exhaust manifolds with a Y pipe. I know that can make a difference too. It's on the list to replace.
Your opinions will be greatly appreciated........ Paul in Naples, Florida
Cam & exhaust will: http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/ganeyexhaust.htm
I just dug out the intake and it is a #2101 Performer. I also just downloaded the Lars tuning guide, as I know by reading this that it definatly needs tuning.
Another question I have is... when I replace this intake and use the dropbase air filter, do I just take off the dual air rams that are stock? Will that restrict the airflow to the carb at all?
I just dug out the intake and it is a #2101 Performer. I also just downloaded the Lars tuning guide, as I know by reading this that it definatly needs tuning.
Another question I have is... when I replace this intake and use the dropbase air filter, do I just take off the dual air rams that are stock? Will that restrict the airflow to the carb at all?
However I disagree that it will provide a meaningful difference in performance (The RPM version might be a bigger difference). In my experience it provides a very modest difference at best in flow over a stock Chevrolet dual plane cast iron manifold (unless you swap a bunch of other stuff out too). The real advantage IMHO is lighter weight and much easier to port match. Alum manifolds look cool too!
Fitting a 2101 Performer intake on mine didn't make a night & day difference as far as I could tell. It definately ran a bit better, but not in a way that'd make you kiss the guy that sold it to you! With the stock Q-jet fitted to it there is plenty of hood clearance on my 'stock '81. If possible I'd try to keep the air ducts to the filter in place. They don't look too nice, but they're pulling in colder air than you'd get from under the hood, which should help power. A Performer rpm won't fit under my hood with a stock cleaner, I'd need a drop base one, but then I'd not have the cold air ducting.As somebody mentioned above, true duals will give a big difference. Out of all my mods that was the one that gave the greatest seat of the pants improvement, even with stock mufflers hanging on the back. Changing the mufflers later on made a slight improvement (I think?) & a whole bunch more noise
Fitting headers certainly helped at the high end of the rev range, but I didn't notice any difference over stock tubular manifolds & true duals at the low to mid-range. The ceramic coated headers also caused a reduction in interior temps. If you intend to fit Headers then do it & a dual exhaust at the same time, as doing it in steps like I did just causes more work & expense. Don't forget to adjust the carb to account for the exhaust work.Setting the timing as described by Lars is an easy & free improvement.
Something else I did that made a noticeable difference was to fit a high output coil & new plug leads (wires). I could actually feel the engine "picking up" cleaner on acceleration after that. It might have been due to the more powerful spark (as the glossy promised), but it could also have been because the originals were tired, but it definately felt more "alive" afterwards.
Setting up the original Q-jet correctly might make a massive difference. The Q-jet is quite complex and many previous owners set them up badly. Just un-Bubbaring the "tweaks" made to my Q-jet made a major difference in overall running (but I've got the advantage of having a "Check Engine" light flashing at me if the mixture is wildly off - without that I would have been running around for months not knowing that the carburation was wildly out).
OR...... you could just leave it as stock, because once you start spending out on performance enhancements it just doesn't stop















