Mini-Body Lift Project
Actually, I only want to lift the body a few inches. This is to allow me to conveniently replace the old front to back brake line with a new stainless steel line. If I get the frame up in the air I also might want to replace the gas lines. And of course, the gas tank looks like it'd be easier to remove with a few inches of extra free space on top. Since I don't really have a rust problem, a few inches will allow me to repaint all of the frame. It looks like I can have all of the advantages of a frame off restoration by just lifting the body a few inches - perhaps just 6 inches.
My Question: Once I lift the body, how much of a worry is it to get it back on the frame. When I lower it, all of the body mount holes need to match up exactly. I imagine that most people do a body off project with slings to suspend the body. I imagine with the body suspended, you can easily push the body back and forth to get the holes to line up. However, I'll be lifting and lowering the body with jacks. If the body shifts on the jack stands, I imagine I'll be in trouble trying to move the body even a 1/16 of an inch. The body seems amazingly heavy. I've already given it some forceful prods and it doesn't move. With a lot muscle power I can lift the rear body a little off of the #4 mount. If I don't lower the body exactly, I think I'm going to be in trouble.
Has anyone jacked the body up a few inches and lowered it?---Any particular techniques?
Currently, plans are to use extra long bolts in the mounting holes and lift the body up to the maximum length of the added bolts. This way when I lower the body, it should be forced back into the original position.
PS: I had a lot of problems with a #4 mounting bolt. #4 is the frame atachment you can see in the rear wheel well. It's on the frame just past the differential crossmember. The bolt head is exposed, but the nut is inside the body and is constrained by a nut catcher to keep it from turning when you turn the bolt head. One of these bolts was free spinning, meaning that the nutcatcher on the inside had broke loose. I later found out that it had for sure. For one thing it's only riveted with aluminum rivets so any force will shear these rivets. I cut the bolt head off and later retrieved the rest. Sure enough the nutcatcher rivets were sheared. Why didn't the nut turn? It was cross threaded!!!. It appears that when it was first installed at the factory, it was crossthreaded but with the magic of assembly line power tools, it went on OK! All of the other bolts were easy to remove. I'm lucky with a So. Cal car that has very little rust - mostly surface corrision.










