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Old Sep 7, 2004 | 02:59 PM
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Default differential fluid

How do you check the differential fluid level? I removed the plug and used the little finger method and it was a quarter to a half inch below the plug hole. The color of the fluid was a dark gray which seems kind of funny to me. Is this correct? I had just come back from a short cruise so I'm thinking it may have been churned up when I checked it but I'm also concerned there might be some moisture in it even though I've never driven it in the rain.
Thanks
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Old Sep 7, 2004 | 03:13 PM
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When was the last time the rear diff. fluid was changed? If your answer is "I don't know" you should probably change it. Dark grey is not the propper color for gear lube.

Cheap fix- changed mine myself- took about 1/2 hour including waiting for the PBblaster to work. Only cost about $20. 2 bottles of Mobile 1 gear lube ($8.95 each at AutoZone and $3.95 for a pump).

Fill to the top (when it starts to ooze out of the fill hole).

Be done with it for a good few more years.

Cheers!
~Kevin
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Old Sep 7, 2004 | 04:25 PM
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Thanks Kevin, sounds like good advice. Didn't think the color was right so I'll be changing the fluid in the next day or so. Already have the pump from when I changed the calipers so like you said it should be a cheap fix.
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Old Sep 7, 2004 | 04:38 PM
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You'll want to get a bottle or two of the GM limited slip additive to install or else you'll end up with posi chatter.
Gary
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Old Sep 7, 2004 | 04:41 PM
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Gary,

The Mobil 1 synthetic is the way to go. Has the posi-addative included. No chatter at all (my funky rear end noises all went away with the fluid change as well).

If you are going with a conventional gear lube- yeah, add the posi-fluid.

Cheers!
~Kevin
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Old Sep 7, 2004 | 05:00 PM
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What kind of pump are you guys using to take out the old fluid?
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Old Sep 7, 2004 | 05:45 PM
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I bought a vacuum pump at Sears, in the automotive section of the tool dept. I think it was around $50.00. It has several useful attachments and is metal instead of plastic. I used it to drain the last of the oil out of my oil pan when I changed oil and it worked real well. Used it to start bleeding brakes but ended up having my daughter pump the brakes for me to get it done. Should work good to drain rear end tho.
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Old Sep 7, 2004 | 06:38 PM
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or you can do what i did and jsut replace the rear end like i did, makes putting the fluid in much easier. jk, i really needed a new rearend, and the fluid that came out of the old rear end was just scary, it looked like it was pure metal
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Old Sep 7, 2004 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 79Cruzer
What kind of pump are you guys using to take out the old fluid?
I bought this pump at Autozone for $7.00.

I just changed the oil on mine. It took about 20 minutes.
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Old Sep 7, 2004 | 07:05 PM
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This is the pump I bought at Sears

It can also be used to check vacuum advance function etc.
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Old Sep 7, 2004 | 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by olouieo
I bought this pump at Autozone for $7.00.

I just changed the oil on mine. It took about 20 minutes.
Me too....works great for $7.00.
Eddie
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Old Sep 7, 2004 | 08:10 PM
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if you're brave (and stupid) siphon it out!
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Old Sep 7, 2004 | 08:30 PM
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Evil 79 is right. Just change it to mobil 1 synthetic. The differential has those big hypoid gears that have a lot of slidng action - read friction. You will get less wear and more power due to reduced friction and less wear and no posi additive required. I read a test of synthetics in Hot Rod or Car Craft. They changed all fluids i.e. engine oil, transmission oil and rear end lubricant to synthetics and gained 12 rear wheel horspower as measured on a chassis dyno. Cheap horse power and reduced wear. You can't beat it. There are other synthetics out there also. Royal Purple is susposed to have a really good gear lubricant.
And then there is Red Line (expensive but worth it?) and a bunch of others.

If I get comments about seal leakage I will address those.
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