Pulling the engine
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 294
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville FL
Pulling the engine
Hey guys/gals,
Looking for a little help here. I'm looking to pull the engine in my 1980 vette for the first time. Was wondering if anyone had a step by step walkthrough for doing it, or recommend and instruction manual? How hard a job is it?
Thanks in advanced!
Looking for a little help here. I'm looking to pull the engine in my 1980 vette for the first time. Was wondering if anyone had a step by step walkthrough for doing it, or recommend and instruction manual? How hard a job is it?
Thanks in advanced!
Pro
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 687
Likes: 0
From: Atascadero Ca
In my opinon you don't really need an instruction manual. Just take your time and you'll be fine. Pull your hood off. Make sure you've got all the wiring disconnected from the motor (disconnect the battery first) drain all the fluids and disconnect the radiator hoses, unhook the exhaust, unhook the vacuum lines (label them first), pull the line that goes from the fuel pump to the frame line(be ready with something to plug the line). Pull the radiator out. Unhook the tranny linkages and driveshaft, finally pull the motor mount bolts and the tranny bolts and you're set. Its really not that big of a job, just take your time and go around the motor making sure you've got everything disconnected before you start yanking. If it doesn't move easily, stop lifting and go around and find whats holding it back. I'm sure you can find the procedure in a haynes or chilton manual, but its not a difficult job, even for the first timer. My 73 vette was the 2nd motor i've ever pulled. You're in the right place if you have any other questions. I say dig in!
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,418
Likes: 1
These Vettes we have don't need the hood removed to pull the engine .
I don't know how that got started .
Things will come to you as you go along . Recommend putting a front pump seal in the transmission if an automatic while engine is out along with trans service , blow out the cooler part of the radiator and the fluid lines .
Thorough cleaning of the torque converter would also be of benefit
I don't know how that got started .
Things will come to you as you go along . Recommend putting a front pump seal in the transmission if an automatic while engine is out along with trans service , blow out the cooler part of the radiator and the fluid lines .
Thorough cleaning of the torque converter would also be of benefit
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 2,897
Likes: 0
From: Moon Township PA
Originally Posted by Fireslayer26
Hey guys/gals,
Looking for a little help here. I'm looking to pull the engine in my 1980 vette for the first time. Was wondering if anyone had a step by step walkthrough for doing it, or recommend and instruction manual? How hard a job is it?
Thanks in advanced!
Looking for a little help here. I'm looking to pull the engine in my 1980 vette for the first time. Was wondering if anyone had a step by step walkthrough for doing it, or recommend and instruction manual? How hard a job is it?
Thanks in advanced!
Step by step? You bet. Go to Barnes and Noble or your favorite book store and spend the few dollars to buy "How To Rebuild Your Small BLock Chevy". This book gives great advice for the first timer. I used this on my car and it was perfect. Tells just about everything you need but it is not specific to Corvettes. Well worth the money IMHO.
Gary
Racer
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
From: Hershey Pa
Just don't forget to unbolt the big grounding cable underneath.
When i was raising mine it seemed loose, it moved freely but just wouldn't come up any further. I didn't see the grounding cable cause it blended in with the cruddy engine bay.
Well it let go, my motor hopped 6 inches in the air and I almost had heart failure, but it stayed on the chain.
When i was raising mine it seemed loose, it moved freely but just wouldn't come up any further. I didn't see the grounding cable cause it blended in with the cruddy engine bay.
Well it let go, my motor hopped 6 inches in the air and I almost had heart failure, but it stayed on the chain.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 708
Likes: 66
From: New Franklin, OH
Hi,
I'm gonna do the same thing in a month or so...
So if I understand it correct, the easiest way is to take the engine and trans out at the same time, and then separate them. Does it make any difference if you have an auto or manual? I was a bit worried I couldn't drop the trans enough to get clearance to get the shifter out of the tunnel with the car on it's wheels.
Anybody any idea how much the combination stock '77 L-48 engine and manual 4 speed trans weigh? Just to make sure the equipment I can borrow will be able to carry it.
Thanks a lot,
Regards, Sonny
I'm gonna do the same thing in a month or so...
So if I understand it correct, the easiest way is to take the engine and trans out at the same time, and then separate them. Does it make any difference if you have an auto or manual? I was a bit worried I couldn't drop the trans enough to get clearance to get the shifter out of the tunnel with the car on it's wheels.
Anybody any idea how much the combination stock '77 L-48 engine and manual 4 speed trans weigh? Just to make sure the equipment I can borrow will be able to carry it.
Thanks a lot,
Regards, Sonny
Last edited by CandyRed77; Sep 8, 2004 at 11:02 AM.
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
From: Neenah WI
I just pulled my motor out of my 69, 10 days ago.
If you have a digital camera take lots and lots of picks of everthing that is connected to the motor and different angles. I probably raffled off 30 or so just on the top side.
I did take off my hood. was very easy and one less thing to worry about. just make sure to use a paint marker to you can align it correctly when you put it back on. Yes you can pull the motor with out the trans with the hood on, you just bring the picker from the side.
I took off my trans first. you either pull the trans or I had to take off the radiator bracket that had all the bolts barried under the under coating. But I did leave the bell housing on the block.
If you have a digital camera take lots and lots of picks of everthing that is connected to the motor and different angles. I probably raffled off 30 or so just on the top side.
I did take off my hood. was very easy and one less thing to worry about. just make sure to use a paint marker to you can align it correctly when you put it back on. Yes you can pull the motor with out the trans with the hood on, you just bring the picker from the side.
I took off my trans first. you either pull the trans or I had to take off the radiator bracket that had all the bolts barried under the under coating. But I did leave the bell housing on the block.
Instructor
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 199
Likes: 0
From: Santa Monica CA
Originally Posted by CandyRed77
So if I understand it correct, the easiest way is to take the engine and trans out at the same time, and then separate them. Does it make any difference if you have an auto or manual? I was a bit worried I couldn't drop the trans enough to get clearance to get the shifter out of the tunnel with the car on it's wheels.
Don't know about getting the shifter out, but I suspect you would have to lift the car pretty high. Ramps are great, BTW - $20 at Pep Boys.
Dave
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 7,423
Likes: 1,458
From: Little Rock AR
If you are removing the engine and leaving the tranny in place like I did, here are a few ideas.
I just did the R&R on an '80 and I would add that you need to remove the torque converter cover and unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate. Push the converter back to the tranny and support the tranny before you pull the engine. Tie a length of wire across the tranny ears to prevent the torque converter from coming off and making a big mess.
I liked pulling off the stuff on the front of the engine before removal. It makes for a little more room. You are going to remove the stuff anyway and it comes off easy so consider that.
On the install, I would have EVERYTHING attached to the engine except the distributor and the front accessories. This INCLUDES THE NEW IGNITION WIRES
and the exhaust manifolds/shields. They are a royal bitch to try to install later. Pre-fit and label the ignition wires at both ends as it is difficult to trace them later if you go the factory route (which I would advise).
That is a good start.
-Mark.
I just did the R&R on an '80 and I would add that you need to remove the torque converter cover and unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate. Push the converter back to the tranny and support the tranny before you pull the engine. Tie a length of wire across the tranny ears to prevent the torque converter from coming off and making a big mess.
I liked pulling off the stuff on the front of the engine before removal. It makes for a little more room. You are going to remove the stuff anyway and it comes off easy so consider that.
On the install, I would have EVERYTHING attached to the engine except the distributor and the front accessories. This INCLUDES THE NEW IGNITION WIRES
and the exhaust manifolds/shields. They are a royal bitch to try to install later. Pre-fit and label the ignition wires at both ends as it is difficult to trace them later if you go the factory route (which I would advise). That is a good start.
-Mark.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 923
Likes: 4
From: Austin Tx
When you remove the engine, do you remove the engine from the mounts,(leave the mounts in the car attached to frame) or is it best to remove the mounts from the frame and leave them attached to block. I am assuming it is the former, but never removed an engine from a car, only boats. I know with boats it is easier to reinstall engine if you remove bolts that hold down mounts to hull stringers and leave the mounts attached to the block.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 294
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville FL
Thanks for all the advice guys!! Sounds like it would be easier to pull the tranny with the engine. As far as cleaing the engine bay, what works the best? What would you recommend for engine mounts? How many do I need?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,362
Likes: 7
From: Brazos TX
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Cruise-In V Veteran
Clean the engine bay with a pressure washer. I would do this before you pull the engine. If you don't have one or can't get to one then use Castrol Super Clean and a wire brush. A wire wheel on a drill works even better, just wear safety glasses. For engine mounts I would get polyurethane mounts from Energy Suspension or someone like that. You need two mounts (one for each side) and a transmission mount.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 687
Likes: 0
From: Atascadero Ca
Originally Posted by burners
Clean the engine bay with a pressure washer. I would do this before you pull the engine. If you don't have one or can't get to one then use Castrol Super Clean and a wire brush. A wire wheel on a drill works even better, just wear safety glasses. For engine mounts I would get polyurethane mounts from Energy Suspension or someone like that. You need two mounts (one for each side) and a transmission mount.
energy suspension poly mounts are great, and come in pretty pretty colors.
Super clean is terriffic, don't get it on your skin, it hurts.
