700R4 into 76 Corvette
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 125
Likes: 1
From: Va
700R4 into 76 Corvette
I have a 4 speed auto out of an 87 350 IROC-Z that I want to put into my 76 Corvette that currently has a TH400 out of a 76 Suburban. From what I have gathered, I can use a cross-member out of an 82 Corvette that came with the 4 speed auto. Since my 76 isn't computerized and this tranny was hooked up to one, what all will I need to do this swap from start to finish?
82 Cross-member?
Will my current driveshaft work?
Computer plug-in adapter to control torque converter lock up??
Thanks!
82 Cross-member?
Will my current driveshaft work?
Computer plug-in adapter to control torque converter lock up??
Thanks!
Last edited by SevenT6Vet; Sep 16, 2004 at 08:13 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,325
Likes: 6
From: FRANKLIN GA
You'll need the 82 crossmember and you will either have to cut your driveshaft or get one from an 82
You'll need a lockup kit for the trans, all the major companies make them or you can wire them yourself, do an internet search
You'll need a TV cable locating plate and an adapter for the carb. Bowtieoverdrives.com has these and some good article of the importance of correctly setting the TV cable... read them!!
If you have dual exaust you might have a problem with the 82 crossmember it is only indented on the driver side
You'll have to modify your shifter with a rat file or grinder will work.
For some reading
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sum...o/700R4p1.html
http://www.700r4.com/faq/faq.shtml
forgot to add you'll have to have a tail shaft housing for a 82 for the mount bolts to line up right and they are hard to find. PAC, BTO,or the other companies that build trans might have one
You'll need a lockup kit for the trans, all the major companies make them or you can wire them yourself, do an internet search
You'll need a TV cable locating plate and an adapter for the carb. Bowtieoverdrives.com has these and some good article of the importance of correctly setting the TV cable... read them!!
If you have dual exaust you might have a problem with the 82 crossmember it is only indented on the driver side
You'll have to modify your shifter with a rat file or grinder will work.
For some reading
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sum...o/700R4p1.html
http://www.700r4.com/faq/faq.shtml
forgot to add you'll have to have a tail shaft housing for a 82 for the mount bolts to line up right and they are hard to find. PAC, BTO,or the other companies that build trans might have one
Last edited by EDDIEJ82; Sep 15, 2004 at 09:17 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,720
Likes: 12
From: Chattanooga TN
You can only use an 82 driveshaft with an aluminum carrier (80-82) diff. I found that out the hard way. They are different lengths than the 79 back. Search the archives, I think you can use the 76 crossmember with a little modification or the BowTie unit is very nice. If you use the BowTie crossmember you can keep your tailhousing or if you keep your original crossmember you need a new tailhousing like from http://www.phoenixtrans.com/html/newproducts.html
Safety Car
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,758
Likes: 3
From: Surrey
The computer control is just for lockup & is easy to get round as mentioned above. I was about to say that the '82 700 was a different length to "normal" ones, but that's been covered as well 
Very good advice on the TV cable setup. Get the BTO (or similar) setup for the cable as, if you get it wrong, you can wreck the trans.
The x-member will probably be the biggest headache, but rather than getting a stock '82 one, check out the BTO units. I don't know how much you could pick up a stock one for, but the BTO one isn't a bad price (it was cheaper than sending it via UPS to England
). The BTO x-member is tubular, weighs less than the stock one, looks strong & is bent in such a way that dual pipes can easily be fitted. If I could post some pics here I'd show you how I lashed mine up on my '81 (if you want a pic send me your email address). The negative points on the BTO x-member are that the paint was rubbish (got mine powdercoated) and that the "ears" on the ends needed a tube between them to stop them collapsing when you tighten the bolt through them (it's the horizontal bolt going through 2 little tabs hanging down from the chassis). BTO might have modified the x-member by now but, if not, it's no great problem to fix.
Very good advice on the TV cable setup. Get the BTO (or similar) setup for the cable as, if you get it wrong, you can wreck the trans.
The x-member will probably be the biggest headache, but rather than getting a stock '82 one, check out the BTO units. I don't know how much you could pick up a stock one for, but the BTO one isn't a bad price (it was cheaper than sending it via UPS to England
). The BTO x-member is tubular, weighs less than the stock one, looks strong & is bent in such a way that dual pipes can easily be fitted. If I could post some pics here I'd show you how I lashed mine up on my '81 (if you want a pic send me your email address). The negative points on the BTO x-member are that the paint was rubbish (got mine powdercoated) and that the "ears" on the ends needed a tube between them to stop them collapsing when you tighten the bolt through them (it's the horizontal bolt going through 2 little tabs hanging down from the chassis). BTO might have modified the x-member by now but, if not, it's no great problem to fix.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 125
Likes: 1
From: Va
Thanks for the replies!
email: vette@vt.edu
I do have dual exhaust (cough...no cats...cough)
The tv cable is not a huge concern at the moment as I left it disconnected when I put the 400 in (so I have to downshift manually sometimes). Does the tv cable effect the torque converter lock up at all? Or just downshifting at speed?
So basically if I get the BTO crossmember looks like the way to go and get the plug-in computer adapter. Looks like my main concern now is getting the correct driveshaft.
email: vette@vt.edu
I do have dual exhaust (cough...no cats...cough)
The tv cable is not a huge concern at the moment as I left it disconnected when I put the 400 in (so I have to downshift manually sometimes). Does the tv cable effect the torque converter lock up at all? Or just downshifting at speed?
So basically if I get the BTO crossmember looks like the way to go and get the plug-in computer adapter. Looks like my main concern now is getting the correct driveshaft.
Originally Posted by UKPaul
The computer control is just for lockup & is easy to get round as mentioned above. I was about to say that the '82 700 was a different length to "normal" ones, but that's been covered as well
Very good advice on the TV cable setup. Get the BTO (or similar) setup for the cable as, if you get it wrong, you can wreck the trans.
The x-member will probably be the biggest headache, but rather than getting a stock '82 one, check out the BTO units. I don't know how much you could pick up a stock one for, but the BTO one isn't a bad price (it was cheaper than sending it via UPS to England ). The BTO x-member is tubular, weighs less than the stock one, looks strong & is bent in such a way that dual pipes can easily be fitted. If I could post some pics here I'd show you how I lashed mine up on my '81 (if you want a pic send me your email address). The negative points on the BTO x-member are that the paint was rubbish (got mine powdercoated) and that the "ears" on the ends needed a tube between them to stop them collapsing when you tighten the bolt through them (it's the horizontal bolt going through 2 little tabs hanging down from the chassis). BTO might have modified the x-member by now but, if not, it's no great problem to fix.
Very good advice on the TV cable setup. Get the BTO (or similar) setup for the cable as, if you get it wrong, you can wreck the trans.
The x-member will probably be the biggest headache, but rather than getting a stock '82 one, check out the BTO units. I don't know how much you could pick up a stock one for, but the BTO one isn't a bad price (it was cheaper than sending it via UPS to England
). The BTO x-member is tubular, weighs less than the stock one, looks strong & is bent in such a way that dual pipes can easily be fitted. If I could post some pics here I'd show you how I lashed mine up on my '81 (if you want a pic send me your email address). The negative points on the BTO x-member are that the paint was rubbish (got mine powdercoated) and that the "ears" on the ends needed a tube between them to stop them collapsing when you tighten the bolt through them (it's the horizontal bolt going through 2 little tabs hanging down from the chassis). BTO might have modified the x-member by now but, if not, it's no great problem to fix.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,325
Likes: 6
From: FRANKLIN GA
Whoa there cheif!!!!
The TV cable for the 700 controls line pressure to engage all the clutches. It's not a just a downshift cable. The downshifting of the 700r4 is controled by goveners in the valve body.
If you run the 700r4 for even a short time(couple of miles) without the TV cable hooked up, you will destroy the clutches in the trans. And it has to have the correct geometry on the pull, so much before the centerline of the throttle shaft and so much after or it will still burn up the clutches.
BTO sells them (TV made easy kit). READ THE ARTICLES I POSTED!!!
I'm not trying to sound like a d#@k or know it all, I just don't want to see you burn up your trans in 1 day.
The TV cable for the 700 controls line pressure to engage all the clutches. It's not a just a downshift cable. The downshifting of the 700r4 is controled by goveners in the valve body.
If you run the 700r4 for even a short time(couple of miles) without the TV cable hooked up, you will destroy the clutches in the trans. And it has to have the correct geometry on the pull, so much before the centerline of the throttle shaft and so much after or it will still burn up the clutches.
BTO sells them (TV made easy kit). READ THE ARTICLES I POSTED!!!
I'm not trying to sound like a d#@k or know it all, I just don't want to see you burn up your trans in 1 day.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,325
Likes: 6
From: FRANKLIN GA
To answer your questions the TV cable has nothing to do with downshifting or torque converter lockup
The lock up kit is basicly a different valve, a diffrent wiring harness for the inside of the trans, a connecter for the existing plug on the 700 to run a + and - wire to, and a vacum switch that you hook up to your carb or manifold. Different companys go about it differently but basicly the the same on all of them. They aren't hard to do, just follow the directions.
The lock up kit is basicly a different valve, a diffrent wiring harness for the inside of the trans, a connecter for the existing plug on the 700 to run a + and - wire to, and a vacum switch that you hook up to your carb or manifold. Different companys go about it differently but basicly the the same on all of them. They aren't hard to do, just follow the directions.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 9,622
Likes: 16
From: absecon nj
Exactly you have to hook up the tv cable or youll burn it up and make sure its adjusted right too or damage can be done.It took me a bit to get mine adjusted right,but now it works great.And yes youll have to cut your shaft and shorten it and weld it back up.
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Safety Car
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,758
Likes: 3
From: Surrey
Pic on its way.
DEFINITELY!!! The TV cable must be hooked up correctly, with the correct adjustment & have the correct amount of movement in relation to the throttle cable.
Originally Posted by EDDIEJ82
If you run the 700r4 for even a short time(couple of miles) without the TV cable hooked up, you will destroy the clutches in the trans. And it has to have the correct geometry on the pull, so much before the centerline of the throttle shaft and so much after or it will still burn up the clutches.
BTO sells them (TV made easy kit). READ THE ARTICLES I POSTED!!!
I'm not trying to sound like a d#@k or know it all, I just don't want to see you burn up your trans in 1 day.
BTO sells them (TV made easy kit). READ THE ARTICLES I POSTED!!!
I'm not trying to sound like a d#@k or know it all, I just don't want to see you burn up your trans in 1 day.
DEFINITELY!!! The TV cable must be hooked up correctly, with the correct adjustment & have the correct amount of movement in relation to the throttle cable.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 125
Likes: 1
From: Va
Glad you chimed in (no offense taken!). I assume the tv cable will hook up to *any* carb as I have a holley 750 dual feed with mechanical seconaries now, and will probably be going to something smaller soon. I want to be able to hook up to both. I'll read up more on the BTO tv cable kit.
Originally Posted by EDDIEJ82
Whoa there cheif!!!!
The TV cable for the 700 controls line pressure to engage all the clutches. It's not a just a downshift cable. The downshifting of the 700r4 is controled by goveners in the valve body.
If you run the 700r4 for even a short time(couple of miles) without the TV cable hooked up, you will destroy the clutches in the trans. And it has to have the correct geometry on the pull, so much before the centerline of the throttle shaft and so much after or it will still burn up the clutches.
BTO sells them (TV made easy kit). READ THE ARTICLES I POSTED!!!
I'm not trying to sound like a d#@k or know it all, I just don't want to see you burn up your trans in 1 day.
The TV cable for the 700 controls line pressure to engage all the clutches. It's not a just a downshift cable. The downshifting of the 700r4 is controled by goveners in the valve body.
If you run the 700r4 for even a short time(couple of miles) without the TV cable hooked up, you will destroy the clutches in the trans. And it has to have the correct geometry on the pull, so much before the centerline of the throttle shaft and so much after or it will still burn up the clutches.
BTO sells them (TV made easy kit). READ THE ARTICLES I POSTED!!!
I'm not trying to sound like a d#@k or know it all, I just don't want to see you burn up your trans in 1 day.
Last edited by SevenT6Vet; Sep 16, 2004 at 08:14 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,325
Likes: 6
From: FRANKLIN GA
Never go smaller....only go bigger!! 
If you keep the same kind of carb you will be fine, they make one for all of them Rochester, Holley, Demon, Edelbrock. But you can't change one from say an Edelbrock to a Holley and it work right.
Your gonna love the overdrive, put 3.73's in the rear and you will love it even more. It'll feel like you put a different motor in it.
If you keep the same kind of carb you will be fine, they make one for all of them Rochester, Holley, Demon, Edelbrock. But you can't change one from say an Edelbrock to a Holley and it work right.
Your gonna love the overdrive, put 3.73's in the rear and you will love it even more. It'll feel like you put a different motor in it.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 125
Likes: 1
From: Va
It's got 4.10's now and the motor probably has ~325-350 hp at the crank. I'm taking off the Torker II intake and probably getting a Performer RPM as the low end torque just isn't there.
Originally Posted by EDDIEJ82
Never go smaller....only go bigger!!
If you keep the same kind of carb you will be fine, they make one for all of them Rochester, Holley, Demon, Edelbrock. But you can't change one from say an Edelbrock to a Holley and it work right.
Your gonna love the overdrive, put 3.73's in the rear and you will love it even more. It'll feel like you put a different motor in it.
If you keep the same kind of carb you will be fine, they make one for all of them Rochester, Holley, Demon, Edelbrock. But you can't change one from say an Edelbrock to a Holley and it work right.
Your gonna love the overdrive, put 3.73's in the rear and you will love it even more. It'll feel like you put a different motor in it.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 125
Likes: 1
From: Va
I hope so. The last long trip I took in it was about 4 years ago from Richmond, Va to Virginia Tech (about 3.5 hours). I was tired, deaf, and dehydrated when I got there!
Originally Posted by UKPaul
Yes, with that rear ratio & the low 1st of the 700 you're gonna have some wild stoplight fun The OD will really make highway driving much more civilised.
The OD will really make highway driving much more civilised.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,758
Likes: 3
From: Surrey
Originally Posted by SevenT6Vet
I hope so. The last long trip I took in it was about 4 years ago from Richmond, Va to Virginia Tech (about 3.5 hours). I was tired, deaf, and dehydrated when I got there!
My rear end is 2.87 so I'm doing 75mph at 2000rpm. A lower ratio at the rear would be nice but I don't want to lose the low rpm cruising at highway speeds (or the ability to keep up with ZR1's & C5's), so maybe a 3.08 rear would be better for me? BTO recommended a 3.55 rear for a C3 running stock size wheels/tires with a 200 or 700 fitted, as it'll give wild off the line performance & respectable cruising speeds.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 4,135
Likes: 1
i did the 700r-4 conversion about 2 yrs ago ,and its the best upgrade if you like a combo street car/road car-- the rpms on the road dropped from 3500 in 3rd at 60 mph (with the 400) to around 2000 in o.d .with the 700 r-4...as far as the crossmember we bought a bracket from boetie that was more of a adapter to connect the 700 r-4 to the stock crossmember(on my 73 coupe)my cousin built my trans from a late model unit (something about the shafts were thinner on the earlier models) boe tie worked with him on the conversion over the phone even thou we didnt buy the unit from them-- they sell the shifter plated so you will have a extra position on the shiftre for the 4th position- also the new label for shifter with the 0.D.-- then theres the t.v. cable which isnt that hard to hook up - the lockup for the converter and the brake switch to release it-and yes you'll have to cut the drive shaft i believe it was 4''- im runnin a 373 rear and with the 383 motor she really pulls outta the hole- and 2nd will spin em- gas milage went from 7mpg with the 400 to 17 on the road with the 700 r-4
