[Poll] Stating Engine.
Thread Starter
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From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
[Poll] Starting Engine.
I'm having problems with my clutch and tranny alignment which is delaying my engine "fire-up". Cast your vote.
Should I wait till I have the tranny & clutch issues resolved or fire her up now and fix the tranny & clutch later. I could probably have the engine ready to start by the weekend if I let the tranny work slide.
Should I wait till I have the tranny & clutch issues resolved or fire her up now and fix the tranny & clutch later. I could probably have the engine ready to start by the weekend if I let the tranny work slide.
Last edited by Jughead; Sep 15, 2004 at 09:55 AM. Reason: spelling
Le Mans Master
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From: Silver City NM
St. Jude Donor '05-'07
Len: I haven't followed the clutch/tranny problems, so can you describe them real quick? Is it an installation problem or are there more serious problems with trans internals?
Dep
Dep
Thread Starter
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From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
Originally Posted by DJ Dep
Len: I haven't followed the clutch/tranny problems, so can you describe them real quick? Is it an installation problem or are there more serious problems with trans internals?
Dep
Dep
Damm! It's starting engine not stating engine!
Here's the link with the clutch issues.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=903236
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Living in the Hartland
Start the eng now so if they are any leaks or issue with it so you will be in a better position to deal with them at the same time you deal with the trans. Would be a bummer to have to pull the trans to fix it only to have a problem with the eng after. 
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Silver City NM
St. Jude Donor '05-'07
Okay...read the thread. That thing the one guy did was what occured to me. Make the adjusting rod longer by getting a threaded rod at the hardware store and attaching it to the original. Is the throwout bearing touching the fingers of the clutch at all or is your pedal on the floor? If it's on the floor, then something is REAL wrong somewhere and the longer rod and adjusting the nuts fix may not help. If you disconnect the z-bar linkage can you move the clutch pivot arm that goes inside the bellhousing onto the fingers of the clutch? Did you convert from auto to stick (what I plan on doing). Are you sure the rod going from the z-bar to the arm in the bellhousing is the right one for your car?
I wouldn't fiddle around with starting the engine till I got the clutch stuff figured out.
Dep
I wouldn't fiddle around with starting the engine till I got the clutch stuff figured out.
Dep
Thread Starter
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From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
Dep: I've rotated the engine while on the floor stand with the clutch installed without issue. I think the problem lies in the linkage.
The TO bearing is touching the fingers of the clutch and is free. The clutch pedal is no longer on the floor.
Yes.
No, always been a stick.
Yes, I checked and it's the same one for SB & BB's from '65-81.
1. Is the throwout bearing touching the fingers of the clutch at all?
2. If you disconnect the z-bar linkage can you move the clutch pivot arm that goes inside the bellhousing onto the fingers of the clutch?
3. Did you convert from auto to stick?
4. Are you sure the rod going from the z-bar to the arm in the bellhousing is the right one for your car?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,714
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From: Silver City NM
St. Jude Donor '05-'07
Len: #1 Seems to indicate you need more length on the adjusting rod.
One more question...is the clutch you put in the same type as the one you removed? (ie took out a diaphram and put in a diaphram?). Or did you switch to a different type of clutch (Bork & Beck finger type)? That MAY account for the change in freeplay adjustment. Just guessing there. All you may need is a longer threaded adjustment rod. If so, a local machine shop or welding place could probably fix you right up.
Dep
One more question...is the clutch you put in the same type as the one you removed? (ie took out a diaphram and put in a diaphram?). Or did you switch to a different type of clutch (Bork & Beck finger type)? That MAY account for the change in freeplay adjustment. Just guessing there. All you may need is a longer threaded adjustment rod. If so, a local machine shop or welding place could probably fix you right up.
Dep
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Thread Starter
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From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
Originally Posted by DJ Dep
Len: #1 Seems to indicate you need more length on the adjusting rod.
One more question...is the clutch you put in the same type as the one you removed? (ie took out a diaphram and put in a diaphram?). Or did you switch to a different type of clutch (Bork & Beck finger type)? That MAY account for the change in freeplay adjustment. Just guessing there. All you may need is a longer threaded adjustment rod. If so, a local machine shop or welding place could probably fix you right up.
Dep
One more question...is the clutch you put in the same type as the one you removed? (ie took out a diaphram and put in a diaphram?). Or did you switch to a different type of clutch (Bork & Beck finger type)? That MAY account for the change in freeplay adjustment. Just guessing there. All you may need is a longer threaded adjustment rod. If so, a local machine shop or welding place could probably fix you right up.
Dep
Dep, everything is either new or rebuilt on this engine / tranny. The clutch is a Centerforce DF and brand new flywheel. I did align the clutch with the pilot bearing when I installed.
Thread Starter
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From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
Originally Posted by DJ Dep
Len: #1 Seems to indicate you need more length on the adjusting rod.
One more question...is the clutch you put in the same type as the one you removed? (ie took out a diaphram and put in a diaphram?). Or did you switch to a different type of clutch (Bork & Beck finger type)? That MAY account for the change in freeplay adjustment. Just guessing there. All you may need is a longer threaded adjustment rod. If so, a local machine shop or welding place could probably fix you right up.
Dep
One more question...is the clutch you put in the same type as the one you removed? (ie took out a diaphram and put in a diaphram?). Or did you switch to a different type of clutch (Bork & Beck finger type)? That MAY account for the change in freeplay adjustment. Just guessing there. All you may need is a longer threaded adjustment rod. If so, a local machine shop or welding place could probably fix you right up.
Dep
Dep, I agree more length is needed. My wife says that too.
Everything on this engine & tranny is either new or rebuilt. The clutch is a Centerforce DF and the flywheel is aftermarket stock replacement.
Thanks for all your help. I'm going to take the clutch rod out and compare it to a used one I bought with a Z-bar.
TTT I just want to keep up to date with your progress Len 
Thread Starter
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From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
Thanks Mike, I think it's really more of a linkage/shifter issue and not a tranny/clutch issue. Waitn' on some small parts. 
How's your engine running?
How's your engine running?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Silver City NM
St. Jude Donor '05-'07
Len: A quick test-fix occured to me last night. Instead of removing the threaded rod that may be too short, go to the hardware store and find a threaded rod of the same size and thread pitch. Cut the new rod so that you get the extra length you need. You can use a hacksaw for that. Then get a bushing (also from a hardware store) to link the original rod to the new extra length rod. A bushing would be something like a tie rod adjusting sleeve. It would connect the two rods together to make one complete rod. If I have this problem on my Vette when I do the tranny switch, that is my plan. If it solves the problem, you can take the factory too-short rod in to be lengthed via a weld, and know exactly how much extra length you need.
Dep
Dep