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Anyone Tried Rust Bullet?

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Old Sep 17, 2004 | 11:15 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by NHvette
AH - the hijack is pertinent.

I wrestled with this also. I have a few posts deep in the archives (lost now).
I replaced the entire lower section of a radiator support.
When done, I considered trying to slosh around some POR15
to protect the inside. I decided against it. Instead, I used
perforated steel to replace the lower section. This way, not
only does any water drain out, but the airflow gets in there to
keep it dry. ... not that my vette will see much water - except
for the occasional washing. Same deal with the inside of my
frame rails: I don't ever intend to get water up in them again.

Another reason is that the coatings aren't that cheap. You'd
probably need at least a pint to get that done - then throw
away the stuff that drains out.

What I have considered for inside these parts is what is usually
applied: rust proofing wax/oil. If you can find a place that does
frame spraying, they will probably do your support for cheap $.
My parts store had a special one month: buy 2 gallons of wax
and get the application gun/set for $100. I wish I bought it at
the time. Oh well.

I understand what you are saying. Fortunately, I'm not in need of any metal replacement.

My original support is toast; completely gone at the bottom. The one I have found has only slight perforation at the bottom and can be used. But like all used supports, it has rust sliding around the inside. So I intend to bore some large drain holes in the bottom to let present rust and future moisture out, but I'd like something to pore in to lock up and stop any further rusting. The wax treatment makes sense if I can find someone locally that can do it. POR-15 is rather expensive to simply pour in and hope for the best. Maybe one of the other products that is less expensive might make sense.

Steve
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Old Sep 17, 2004 | 11:32 AM
  #22  
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I tried Rust Bulet on the inside bottom of my truck door. Never put a top coat of paint over it. And it still looks great after going through a New England winter. It's worth a look. You can buy a pint can to try it. Just wear gloves it wears like iron
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Old Sep 17, 2004 | 12:01 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Steve's74
I understand what you are saying. Fortunately, I'm not in need of any metal replacement.

My original support is toast; completely gone at the bottom. The one I have found has only slight perforation at the bottom and can be used. But like all used supports, it has rust sliding around the inside. So I intend to bore some large drain holes in the bottom to let present rust and future moisture out, but I'd like something to pore in to lock up and stop any further rusting. The wax treatment makes sense if I can find someone locally that can do it. POR-15 is rather expensive to simply pour in and hope for the best. Maybe one of the other products that is less expensive might make sense.

Steve
Eastwood has some waxy spray material that is supposed to retard rusting and is made for spraying into areas that will not be painted.

I just remembered a technique that old-time New Englanders used to protect their cars from rust before the invention of modern rustproofing treatments. Once or twice a year they would spray the whole underside of the car with used motor oil. I'm sure many of us have noticed how nice the front crossmember looks underneath the oily crud that has protected it from water and salt. I may just spray oil into the interior of the side rails to protect them from further rusting. With 5 cars in the family I have no shortage of used oil.

Rick B.
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Old Sep 19, 2004 | 12:54 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by brystheguy
Not to hijack, but how do you decide what to paint underneath? I had a lot of my rear end off and thought about painting but I had no idea where I'd stop so I just said screw it and put everything back together. I kinda thought that you had to take everything apart and paint items individually. Lotus, it looks like you just painted everything in as it was on the car. Is that how it's normally done? What do you do when you have to wrench a bolt and it doesn't line up with the old paint marks? Just curious as I have never seen a frame painting write-up to go by.
In response to you question "Lotus, it looks like you just painted everything in as it was on the car. Is that how it's normally done?"
that all depends on what your goal is. Mine was to clean ane protect my driver yours might be a NCRS restoration. Rust Bullet was a very good product for my needs.
John

before:


After:
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Old Sep 19, 2004 | 02:08 PM
  #25  
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From: Beverly Massachusetts
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Lotus76 im going for the same aproach as you and i was wondering how much am i looking on spending on rustbullet and where can i buy it. im looking to under coat as much as i can on my 76 to protect here from the elements and also sende i just put in new floorpans and dont feel like i ever want to have to do that again. TIA ... mike
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Old Sep 20, 2004 | 09:34 AM
  #26  
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Mike,
I just repaired my 76 floor pans too. I am happy with the way they turned out but I don't want to do that again!

The Rust Bullet product worked great for me its amazing stuff and leaves a nice looking finish. I used black undercoating over it in the wheel wells. I also used it on my rally wheels then painted them with silver ( they will never rust now)

You do need to be careful about overspray if it drys it does not want to come off, cover your car with plastic and tape it down and don't forget the plastic on the floor (see photo). use a mask and don't get it on your skin (it has to wear off)

I used a sprayer but you can brush it on too, make sure you get rust bullet for automobiles, and get the smaller containers so you can work slow if you need to. I got the six shooter (six small cans) for less than $40.00 I did the whole underside with two coats, my 5 ralley wheels and still had 1 can left. what a deal! I spend more than that on hand cleaner!!!

I took the Vette to an exaust shop the first day I got it and recently took it back to put in an H pipe and the guys at the shop could not beleve it was the same car from underneath.

Good Luck

John

Here is a link http://www.itkillsrust.com/ check it out










Last edited by Lotus76; Sep 20, 2004 at 10:24 AM.
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 02:10 PM
  #27  
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Lotus,
What type of sprayer did you use?
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 04:04 PM
  #28  
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From: I can explain it to you, but I can't comprehend it for ya.
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Warning:
POR-15 will NOT hold up against brake fluid! Ask me how I know
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 04:36 PM
  #29  
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Wow, I paint my master this summer, so far so good, I guess I'll be real careful...
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 05:14 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Steve's74
I understand what you are saying. Fortunately, I'm not in need of any metal replacement.

My original support is toast; completely gone at the bottom. The one I have found has only slight perforation at the bottom and can be used. But like all used supports, it has rust sliding around the inside. So I intend to bore some large drain holes in the bottom to let present rust and future moisture out, but I'd like something to pore in to lock up and stop any further rusting. The wax treatment makes sense if I can find someone locally that can do it. POR-15 is rather expensive to simply pour in and hope for the best. Maybe one of the other products that is less expensive might make sense.

Steve
If want to coat something inside, Using Por-15 or whatever. Tape up all the holes and seams with duct tape, make it tight so you have no holes. Find the largest hole you have and pour in the Por-15 I use a little thinner. You will have to guess the amount but you don’t need a lot. I buy Por-15 in the small 6 pack containers one should easily do a rad. support. After you pore it in plug that hole also and turn the part so it coats all areas. Take off the tape, on a seam works best, and drain out the access. You can tell if everything is coated when you pull all the tape off by the witness on the tape. Might want to set up something else to paint with the excess so you don’t waste it. Work over a drop cloth or outside in an area that you don’t care about spills and wear latex gloves.
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 07:35 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Blair Winch Project
Dave,
I've visited your website many times as I've been tearing my vette apart. I show my son the pictures and warn him that if our car looks that bad (the 'before' pics of course) we're selling it!

It's good to have a number of forum members in the general area. One day we'll all have to get together for some
Rick, Lars will be here in June (tentatively). He will also be touring
for a day in MA - closer to you. Good time to get together and
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 08:48 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by NHvette
Rick, Lars will be here in June (tentatively). He will also be touring
for a day in MA - closer to you. Good time to get together and
Excellent! I'll keep my eyes open for details on his visit. I wish I had a carb for him to tune. I'm hoping to have a rolling chassis by next summer, but the powertrain is still up in the air. I'd like to see Lars tune some cars just to watch a master at work.

Rick B.
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 11:00 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by verbanik
Lotus,
What type of sprayer did you use?
I just used a normal spray gunfor my frame. I cleaned it with Laquer thinner after wards and it was no worse for the wear.

I used my HVLP gun to spray various suspension parts.... again it cleaned up no problem. You just have to play with the pressure to get the spray pattern right since the material is thicker.
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