Hey all!
Here is my winter project. . .
I am going to remove the ol' L-82 and replace most all of the gaskets.
It has a couple of oil leaks. It doesn't need rebuilding as it only has 24K on the clock and runs very good.
In the process, I am going to clean and repaint the block, and clean and repaint the engine compartment.

(wish I could go ahead and put on some aluminum heads, new intake and headers too, but not this year. Though I might swing a new intake)

Anyway my question is do you have any suggestions on what else I could do while it's all apart?

Keep in mind the budget is slim this year. (almost non existent, since I bought the car this year)

 

I'd put a cam in it while it's out. you can bolt the heads and intake on anytime.

 

Replace the belt driven clutch fan with an electric one, free up about 10 horsepower.

It would be easier to put timing tape on your harmonic balancer while the engine is out.

New engine mounts?

 

-Vacuum system work.
-Check for firewall leaks and reseal.
-Splash shields and heat shields/foams

 

While the engine is out:

Check :
Control Arm Bushings (alot easier to replace while engine is out)
Radiator seals
Change head gaskets
Rear Main Seal
Maybe Oil Pump, Timing Chain (if you put a new cam in)

 

I was under the impression by this forum that the factory L-82 CAM was pretty good. Wasn't planning on one.

 

Was planning on the rear main.

Keep the ideas flowing. Just what I'm looking for.
Doubt I will do the oil pump or timing chain.

Not planning any mods this year, just a good clean up.
I doubt if I'll do head gaskets. Will worry about those when I get some new heads. (hopefully next year)

I'll definitely check those bushings, radiator seals, and all the stuff CGGorman said and I'll check the mounts and tape that harmonic balancer. Thanks. Keep 'em coming.

 

I would certainly check your timing chain. Probably OK, but cheap to replace the crappy nylon factory one.

The L-82 cam is pretty good, the heads are the real limiting factor (and the exhaust).

New intake would be good too. Dresses up the engine nice while improving power.

Check all the power steering components while the engine is out too. They are prone to leaks! Much easier to fix with engine out.

Cheers!
~Kevin

 

While the engine is out you could also repaint the radiator and radiator support. If you have removed those items you can clean and paint the headlight mechanisms and surrounding areas. Check to make sure the headlight support bar is firmly bonded to the nose ahead of the headlights. The support on my car had seperated, causing the headlights to bind. It's a lot easier to work on that area if you can stand in the engine bay.

While you're at it you may as well remove the front bumper and rustproof all the metal parts. There is a lot of thin metal up front that turns into swiss cheese.

None of this stuff will cost much $ unless you find a lot of parts in need of replacement.

Rick B.

 

I would caution about getting the "while I'm at it" virus.. I came down with it big time while planning to only replace my dash board. Took me and my ride outta commision all summer so far. Have fun with the project, but be sure to load up on Vitamin C!!

 

I hear you brother!!

I won't be driving it this winter anyway.
I will have it back together by spring.

 

I just did that to mine with 45K on the clock. The bores looked great so all I had to do was lightly hone and polish with a scotchbrite pad and WD-40. My L-82 cam had one lobe that looked worn so I ended up replacing it. The crank needed a turn and 2 rods needed resizing.

I did the head swap to 64cc/200 Dart IE heads while I had it apart and they worked out very well with the L-82 cam. Comes out at around 10.3 C/R with the extra thin steel shim head gaskets that I would recomend. The quench will be nice and tight that way. There were a couple of small issues dealling with keeping it looking totaly stock but I am very pleased after the swaps. No more intake heat crossover passage so the EGR is non-functional now along with the loss of EFE intake heat.

I would advise getting the distributor a recurve. Either Lars can do it for you or buy a kit. I went with the Pertronix HEI tune up kit and it has a LOT of things going for it. Realy nice recurve kit included there. Coil, module, copper terminal cap, rotor, screws, adjustable vac advance, tool, instructions, etc. Almost a new disributor in a box. Add gear shims and you have a new HP adjustable distributor for $119 or so from Jegs. Do it later if money is an issue as the distributor is pretty easy to remove.

Put a 36 degree mark on the balancer to the right of the factory zero indicator with a black sharpie. No tape required and the tape will fly off anyway. The mark is exactly 1/10th of the circumference away from the zero. This will aid you greatly when setting the timing and it is hard to do later. Rev it up, shoot the light, line up the marks and lock it down.

Change the timing chain if the gears are metal. Mine were GM and only the chain was slightly worn. I have the P/N if you need it.

-Mark.

 

I agree it's pretty good - but that's also what they say about the ram horn exhaust manifolds... but yet - everyone talks about running headers. I was just making a suggestion since it was apart. I prefer a radical cam... but that's me. (my .02)

 

I started to paint the rear calipers, it wasn't long before everything from the tranny on back was out and the frame painted. The only left to do is finish up the trailing arms and get them assembled so I can put it together. I'm starting to lose interest and want it back on the road sooner than later.

 

TTT

Thanks for the input so far.

Just to reiterate, I'm going to be replacing gaskets.
Not doing any actual engine work. (Except maybe intake).
Mostly due to budget.

Cleaning, inspecting and painting.

Anything else I should check??

Thanks again!!