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Old Sep 18, 2004 | 12:55 PM
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St. Jude Donor '10, '13
Default Brake Rotors

Hi all, Im right in the middle of doing my brakes and have a couple of questions - Im new at this (first time) so please forgive the basic questions.
1. Are Vette rotors special, or can I get off the shelf rotors from like NAPA?

2. If I have my original rotors turned. do I need to take them off the hubs or can they be turned while still riveted?

3. If I drill the rotor rivets off should I replace the rivets after the rotors are turned?

4. Where is the best place to get Rotors, if off the shelf rotors are not a good idea.

Like I said this is my first time and I want to do it right the first time out. so any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
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Old Sep 18, 2004 | 01:02 PM
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1 vette rotors are C3 specific, fronts & rears are not the same offset even if they look to be identical apart from the 2 extra holes to adjust the parking brake.

2 they need to be taken off.

3 no, check for runout, position the rotor at the pos. with the least runout and mark rotor, wheel and hub so that everything goes together the same way it came apart.

4 replacement rotors are a good idea, they should be available at autozone and such but I would shop at VanSteel (I think they offer free shipping for forum members).
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Old Sep 18, 2004 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo

2 they need to be taken off.
Disagree strongly with the above. The hub and rotor were machined as a pair when new to eliminate runout, the same needs to be done when resurfacing or replacing the rotors now.

You might get away with doing them seperately, but why do a half *** job?
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Old Sep 18, 2004 | 05:37 PM
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Well it seems Im no better off now than at the start. Two posts - two answers...

Anybody else?
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Old Sep 18, 2004 | 06:12 PM
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The factory did it as a unit, riveted together but here there is not 1 shop that will mill the rotors and hub as 1 part, you have to take them apart so they can put it in the lathe....maybe it's different over there?
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Old Sep 18, 2004 | 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
The factory did it as a unit, riveted together but here there is not 1 shop that will mill the rotors and hub as 1 part, you have to take them apart so they can put it in the lathe....maybe it's different over there?
I'm with Twin Turbo in that no one around here will machine them as on unit, but at the same time I can see that it would be benifitial. I say if you can find a shop that will do the who assembly then go for it. Good luck
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Old Sep 18, 2004 | 07:18 PM
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I drilled out the rotors and refaced them seperateley. I used a dial indicator and shims to shim them for less then .003 runnout. I also properly adjusted the front and rear bearings for a maximum free play of about .001. I also drill small holes in the parts and mark then with red paint so anything comming off goes back on in the same alignment.
I don't know of a shop here either that would machine the rotor with the hob rivited on either.
l will put my trued rotors against anyones for trueness. Most are well below the .003 runnout I allow.
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Old Sep 18, 2004 | 07:20 PM
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Setting the front bearings is not just tightening the castle nut then backing off to the nearest cotter pin hole. This is wrong.
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Old Sep 18, 2004 | 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
The factory did it as a unit, riveted together but here there is not 1 shop that will mill the rotors and hub as 1 part, you have to take them apart so they can put it in the lathe....maybe it's different over there?
You should try and locate an installer who has an on car brake lathe. This will machine the rotor and hub as an assembly. I know they are the hot ticket with installers in Los Angeles. Now if you need to have the rotors replaced than any "Branded" ie. Raybestos, Bendix, Wagner, Centric rotor is your best bet for long term performance. Since your in their might as well replace the friction, again any of those premium lines is your best bet.

http://www.echoequipment.com/8800.html
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Old Sep 18, 2004 | 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
The factory did it as a unit, riveted together but here there is not 1 shop that will mill the rotors and hub as 1 part, you have to take them apart so they can put it in the lathe....maybe it's different over there?
You should try and locate an installer who has an on car brake lathe. This will machine the rotor and hub as an assembly. I know they are the hot ticket with installers in Los Angeles. Now if you need to have the rotors replaced than any "Branded" ie. Raybestos, Bendix, Wagner, Centric rotor is your best bet for long term performance. Since your in their might as well replace the friction, again any of those premium lines is your best bet.

http://www.echoequipment.com/8800.html
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Old Sep 18, 2004 | 10:49 PM
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How does this on the car brake lathe work?

All wheel bearings will have some degree of "play." How does the brake lath machine the rotor accurately if the rotor/hub assembly itself is, even under best of conditions, free to move around by 0.001 or 0.002 inches or so? Also what about the Corvette C3 rear wheel, it seems that the drive shaft could make the rotor/hub/tailing arm assembly move around- particularly if the rear wheel was hanging free.

Aside from the questions above, if the on the car brake lathes do a good job with Corvette C3 rotors that's really all I need to know. I didn't know these things existed!

Thanks
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Old Sep 18, 2004 | 11:47 PM
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Thanks for all the input guys, I spent the afternoon drilling out the rivets and will search tomorrow for a place to get them turned - if that doesnt work out then I will give Van Steel a call and get some new ones in the mail.

Thanks again,
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Old Sep 19, 2004 | 12:36 AM
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If you don't back off the castle nut to the nearest hole, what is the correct way to set the bearings?
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Old Sep 19, 2004 | 06:31 AM
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Guys were talking C3's here not helicopters and F14's I would Drill the rivets out and put some NEW rotors on they are worth the money if just to keep the heat out, thin rotors create more heat. just my opinion PS can someone explain "runout" to me
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Old Sep 19, 2004 | 08:10 AM
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I had mine done as a unit on a brake lathe. Don't know if it was the operator, or the rotor too thin already, but when I put them back on it was horrible. A lot of pulsating when I put on the brakes. Dangerously so.

I'm going with new rotors.
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Old Sep 19, 2004 | 08:45 AM
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You should try and locate an installer who has an on car brake lathe.

I don't see how this is possible. If the bearings but up to the allowable .008 play how can you true up the rotor??? What about the back with the half shafts and alot of play in the bearing??
Any clearance in the bearing and the rotor finish shows chatter. It takes a good lathe to produce a good finish.

I didn't read all the posts before posting this. It has already been covered.
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Old Sep 19, 2004 | 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Love My 72 and 77
Guys were talking C3's here not helicopters and F14's I would Drill the rivets out and put some NEW rotors on they are worth the money if just to keep the heat out, thin rotors create more heat. just my opinion PS can someone explain "runout" to me
Sorry, we're too busy talking about helicopters and F14 level technology to explain it to you. Or you could read the post right after yours about what happens when you don't get the runout right. BTW, thin rotors do not create more heat than thick ones.
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Old Sep 19, 2004 | 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
Sorry, we're too busy talking about helicopters and F14 level technology to explain it to you. Or you could read the post right after yours about what happens when you don't get the runout right. BTW, thin rotors do not create more heat than thick ones.

YOU need to read the post right after mine a little closer he said he had his turned as a unit and it was horrible. I have a dodge truck and when I run thin rotors they most definetely get hotter faster and the heat dissapates into my caliper and ruins it as a direct result of running thin rotors. I was trying to be funny with the helicopter comment but as usual someone has to be uptight. I will now take your knowledge to task and ask you if you personally can explain runout to me. Or else next time im in Canada I will visit you and you will runout of the room!
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Old Sep 19, 2004 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Love My 72 and 77
YOU need to read the post right after mine a little closer he said he had his turned as a unit and it was horrible. I have a dodge truck and when I run thin rotors they most definetely get hotter faster and the heat dissapates into my caliper and ruins it as a direct result of running thin rotors. I was trying to be funny with the helicopter comment but as usual someone has to be uptight. I will now take your knowledge to task and ask you if you personally can explain runout to me. Or else next time im in Canada I will visit you and you will runout of the room!
Ahhhh, a Dodge owner. That explains it.

BTW, I don't appreciate your childish personal threats. Go play somewhere else.
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Old Sep 19, 2004 | 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
Ahhhh, a Dodge owner. That explains it.

BTW, I don't appreciate your childish personal threats. Go play somewhere else.
ONCE AGAIN I WAS JOKING BUT YOU WERE TOO IGNORANT TO NOTICE AND AS I THOUGHT YOU STILL CANNOT EXPLAIN RUNOUT BECAUSE YOU ARE A TOO BUSY GETTING BUTT HURT OVER A JOKE. SOME PEOPLE JUST DO'NT GET IT!


"CANADIAN GIRLS KICK ***" <--- THAT WAS A JOKE DO YOU GET IT??


WAHH WAHHH YOUR CHILDISH PERSONAL THREATS WAHHWAHHH CRYBABY EH'
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