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Or should I leave them on? I really don't want to break that seal. On the other hand, if I need to do some height checking and shimming it would be better to have off...or would it? Any way to do all this with heads on the car?
It depends on whether or not your changing camshafts. A taller lift cam may possibly require checking the valve guide to retainer clearances to avoid wiping out the lobes of the cam if the heads have never been previously subjected to a different cam. Best way, pull the heads and do it correctly if you want the new set up to last. There are many complaints in other threads that some camshafts wear out faster than others. The probable true reason is that they were never installed correctly.
It is easier to do on the car, Are you replacing the springs with stock springs or?. However to do them on the car you will need an air compressor and a fitting to fit the spark plug hole. Plus a spring tool to push the retainer down. Without the compressor you will have to pull the heads.
Or should I leave them on? I really don't want to break that seal. On the other hand, if I need to do some height checking and shimming it would be better to have off...or would it? Any way to do all this with heads on the car?
Brett
BTW, I don't have a air compressor.
If you are worried that much about the head gasket seal, it's time to remove them anyway. Height checking can be done with a straight-edge with all the rockers removed, or individually on a bench as well as spring rates (special tool required). No air compressor is needed for valve spring removal. Remove the spark plug and insert a length of nylon rope in through the plug hole with the piston at the bottom of travel, leaving enough hanging out of the hole for later removal. Rotate the crank by hand until it compresses the rope in the cylinder then remove the springs. This is old school, but it works every time and the rope is cheaper than buying a compressor and the air fitting for the cylinder. However if you have a compression gauge you already have the hose and fitting.
Good luck.
It depends on whether or not your changing camshafts. A taller lift cam may possibly require checking the valve guide to retainer clearances to avoid wiping out the lobes of the cam if the heads have never been previously subjected to a different cam. Best way, pull the heads and do it correctly if you want the new set up to last. There are many complaints in other threads that some camshafts wear out faster than others. The probable true reason is that they were never installed correctly.
That's the reason for the spring change, a cam swap. Going with a Comp XS274S or XS282S, both solids. Going to buy the complete cam kit so I'll have to install the springs, locks, seals, retainers from the kit.
The only reason I don't want to take the heads off is the hassle of torqueing them back on. Why go thru that if it's not needed and if I can fit the springs with the heads on the car?
If you have a partner, you can just hold up each valve with a screwdriver through the spark plug hole. by the way, the lever-type spring compressor is wayyy better than the "arms and screw" type (sorry description)
Good luck
Edit: also, a magnet helps when removing the retainers
That's the reason for the spring change, a cam swap. Going with a Comp XS274S or XS282S, both solids. Going to buy the complete cam kit so I'll have to install the springs, locks, seals, retainers from the kit.
The only reason I don't want to take the heads off is the hassle of torqueing them back on. Why go thru that if it's not needed and if I can fit the springs with the heads on the car?
Brett
Precisely the reason why they should come off. We may be reading in a subsequent post that "my new cam wore out" and wondering why? The reason is that most high performance camshafts are not a drop in hassle free installation for the proceedure to be done correctly. I love solid lifter cams and if you want all the potencial HP your new cam can make, do it right and enjoy the added performance instead of placing yourself in an avoidable nightmare situation. If this is not an adequate answer, then call the cam company for further advice.
If you still decide to do it in the car, this is how you use the rope to hold the valves:
Remove rocker arms and spark plugs. Bring the piston to about 30-45 degrees BTDC. Stuff as much clothesline or 3/8 rope in as you can into the plug hole. Then by hand, rotate the motor towards TDC until it stops. The rope will keep the valves from dropping into the cylinder. I also agree the lever type spring compressors are way easier to use. Just reverse the rotation to get the rope out. It helps to follow the firing order when using this method.
Joe
It is easier to do on the car, Are you replacing the springs with stock springs or?. However to do them on the car you will need an air compressor and a fitting to fit the spark plug hole. Plus a spring tool to push the retainer down. Without the compressor you will have to pull the heads.
I have done them on and off the car and I find them easier to do on the car. If it is just a spring change and you have a compressor for holding up the valve then it is easy.