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I have a tap & die set and have no problem putting threads in a hole. But how do you thread a rod? Never did it. Which end of the die starts the rod threads? The concave portion or the flat end?
Thanks
Len
BTW - is it so that with that kind of tap&die set one can put threads for spark plugs (if the existing happen to crack up) holes? Would it be possible even without removing headers and head - or is the tool too big and the small chips impossible to get out of the combustion chamber...
The picture you provide shows a coupling nut to hold the two cut ends together. If you already have an extra clutch rod, you might consider this approach. Drill out the coupling nut on both ends for the cut but unthreaded clutch rod ends to fit into. Insert and orient the ends while in the nut and braze the whole thing together. If you don't have a torch, but have everything all set up, a brazing fee will be minimal. If your local high school has a metal shop, the teacher might do it for pr value. Just a thought.
From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
Originally Posted by Red 69
The picture you provide shows a coupling nut to hold the two cut ends together. If you already have an extra clutch rod, you might consider this approach. Drill out the coupling nut on both ends for the cut but unthreaded clutch rod ends to fit into. Insert and orient the ends while in the nut and braze the whole thing together. If you don't have a torch, but have everything all set up, a brazing fee will be minimal. If your local high school has a metal shop, the teacher might do it for pr value. Just a thought.
MIG will work, but I like brass because if you need to change the length, just add heat and it will come apart. I don't think changing temper in the rod will become an issue. If you have MIG, you could weld in a longer 3/8ths diameter section instead of the coupling nut. If concerned about strength, lay a 1/4 piece alongside and weld it on. It won't look original, but your modification changed that anyway. A wire brush and black paint and no one will know the part was modified.
Here's an easy way to tell if something is hardened. Take a file and using the edge, cut a notch in the piece.
If is hardened it will "sing" and not cut, soft material with leave a notch from the file.
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IF the rod is perfectly straight, here's a way to slightly reduce the diameter. Chuck it up in a drill, turn it on and LIGHTLY hold it against the grinding wheel of a bench grinder.
Make sure the rest is set properly and the wheel is dressed straight.
If the rest is not set correctly and you get the rod stuck in between the rest and the grinding wheel, the grinding wheel could shatter.
Wear safety glasses while grinding or tapping.
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Put a chamfer on the end of the rod ( literally this angle /---\ )and put it facing up in a vise. Try to get it as perpendicular as possible.
Take the die in it's holder ( chamfer of the die against the chamfer on the rod ) and press down and turn clockwise.
Use lots of oil and make sure you're straight. I find it's much easier to start the threads straight with the piece standing in the vise.
Jeff ( the machinist )
If he doesn't know how to use a die he isn't going to be able to do this either.
he has other problems if he thinks he needs more more adjustment where he is trying to add this extra lenght