guage lights out help!
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 514
Likes: 44
From: Toronto Ont
guage lights out help!
After repairing the contacts on my circuit board and re-installing it, my interior gauges lights don't work. Although I don't think the problem is related beacause all my gauges work. All I did on the repair was glue down the tabs that were sticking out. I checked out the fuses and they are fine. I've read in past posts that the light switch could have blown. But it does turn on the dome light when the **** is turned all the way so what gives? And it worked before I did this what could cause this? I also disconnected the stereo and have everthing ready for the new stereo install wires are all taped have a quick connect ready to go to the new deck. Below is a pic of what I repaired Help![IMG]
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,128
Likes: 3
From: Deltona (son of Deland and DAYTONA) FL
Mt 79 behaved the same way. Dome lamp turned on, but all guage and cluster lights were out. I replaced the headlamp switch and everything works now. Even the HL warning buzzer.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 478
Likes: 3
From: Huntsville AL
Try cleaning the contacts on both real good and reseating the plug-in connector a couple of times. I had to do that on mine after glueing the fingers down to get everything to work.
YBnormal...drive a vette
YBnormal...drive a vette
Race Director
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 11,520
Likes: 13
From: CORVETTE 77 385 C.I. TEXAS
Originally Posted by 79 Bullet
After repairing the contacts on my circuit board and re-installing it, my interior gauges lights don't work. ...
Originally Posted by Ybnormal
Try cleaning the contacts on both real good and reseating the plug-in connector a couple of times.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,128
Likes: 3
From: Deltona (son of Deland and DAYTONA) FL
I replaced my HL switch over a year ago and everything still works. I think they just get old. The dash lights are controlled by the rheostat part of the switch. I think that varies resistance and is subject to wear.
Here is something you can "try" to bypass the HL switch and see if the dash lights work:
I tested it by taking a jumper wire with a fuse in it, ran from an ignition "on" socket on the fuse block to the right side of the fuse scoket for the instrument lights. It was on when ever the ignition was on (no rheostat). I left it like that until I replaced the switch.
If you need one here's how to do it:
The Haynes and GM shop manuals pretty much use the same procedure:
Remove screw from tach/speedo cluster to dash panel, disconnect speedo and pull cluster out. I disconnected my speedo cable at the cruise unit under the hood. I couldn't get the cluster past the steering column, but it was enough room to get my big meat-hooks behind it.
Next I took the 2 side screws from the dashboard out and pulled it out a little. It didn't seem like it was far enought, but it was. I seem to remember a button on the bottom of it that when pressed, allows you to pull the **** out. Unscrew the bezel and it should pop out.
Here is something you can "try" to bypass the HL switch and see if the dash lights work:
I tested it by taking a jumper wire with a fuse in it, ran from an ignition "on" socket on the fuse block to the right side of the fuse scoket for the instrument lights. It was on when ever the ignition was on (no rheostat). I left it like that until I replaced the switch.
If you need one here's how to do it:
The Haynes and GM shop manuals pretty much use the same procedure:
Remove screw from tach/speedo cluster to dash panel, disconnect speedo and pull cluster out. I disconnected my speedo cable at the cruise unit under the hood. I couldn't get the cluster past the steering column, but it was enough room to get my big meat-hooks behind it.
Next I took the 2 side screws from the dashboard out and pulled it out a little. It didn't seem like it was far enought, but it was. I seem to remember a button on the bottom of it that when pressed, allows you to pull the **** out. Unscrew the bezel and it should pop out.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 514
Likes: 44
From: Toronto Ont
So, is there any way to test if the problem with the lights on the gauge cluster are related to the same problem with the tack and the speedo (ie. the switch). keep in mind the gauges all work it's just the lights that light them up don't come on. Do i still have to clean the contacts on the gauge console since the gauges are working?
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Race Director
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 11,520
Likes: 13
From: CORVETTE 77 385 C.I. TEXAS
Originally Posted by 79 Bullet
After repairing the contacts on my circuit board and re-installing it, my interior gauges lights don't work. ... And it worked before I did this what could cause this? ...
Were the speedo/tach lights working before?
If there is a light switch problem, then the rheostat can normally be cleaned w/ contact cleaner (WD-40 works too) to fix.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 514
Likes: 44
From: Toronto Ont
The speedo tac lights did work before. I also tested the gauge and gauge lights before i installed and it worked as well. After I installed that's when the lights didn't work. Ganey, you think it's a connection problem, where? keep in mind when I turn the **** all the way the dome light still comes on. So that part is working on the switch.
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: Westland MI
Those "finger" contacts you repaired could definitely be the problem. They distribute power to both the guages and the guage lights. If I remember correctly, it would only take one or two damaged (shorted by glue perhaps) leads to keep all the lights from working since most are on the same circuit path. I would try wiggling the connector first to see if that does it. Otherwise unplug and clean the surfaces of both contacts.. the beams on the connector and the copper fingers of the flex board. Hope that does the trick!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,205
Likes: 1
From: "Too Low, Too Fast, Too Loud" TX
I had a brake light indicator out..the one between the speedo and tach. Traced the circuit that connected the light from the light socket to the actual "main connector" to the back of the speedo/tack circuit. Found the culprit to be a piece of the brass "ribbon" was damaged. My dad had this real thin sheet of brass, was able to cut to fit the damaged area, soldered it in a presto...it worked and now the brake indicator lamp is working!
If all the lights in your center gauge cluster are not working and you have checked the bulbs individually as to wheather they are good or not, I would then trace the circuit on the printed circuit sheet and follow the the "lamp" paths to the "main connector fingers" to ensure there are no breaks or damaged areas along these paths. Also, make sure that your connector that comes of the wiring harness is in good working order and take a test light..once you figure out the lamp circuit path..then take the test light to the wiring connector from the harness and ensure you have fire there..
I have priced the printed circuit sheets and they always start at over 100 bones... >---<
Good luck, hope this helps...Joe!
If all the lights in your center gauge cluster are not working and you have checked the bulbs individually as to wheather they are good or not, I would then trace the circuit on the printed circuit sheet and follow the the "lamp" paths to the "main connector fingers" to ensure there are no breaks or damaged areas along these paths. Also, make sure that your connector that comes of the wiring harness is in good working order and take a test light..once you figure out the lamp circuit path..then take the test light to the wiring connector from the harness and ensure you have fire there..
I have priced the printed circuit sheets and they always start at over 100 bones... >---<
Good luck, hope this helps...Joe!
Last edited by 81' Corvette Guy; Sep 27, 2004 at 01:23 PM.
