Lower Shock Mount Replacement???
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,699
Likes: 1
From: Westampton NJ
Lower Shock Mount Replacement???
Well, I'm back from the Middle East, and I'm not sure I even said I was going over there, but oh well, I've been busy.
I got back into my garage and got most of my rear suspension loosely bolted together. All I have left is to tighten up the bolts and nuts, attach the new spring, and ghetto-align it for the shop to do the rest.
I replaced my lower shock mounts, and I was wondering how to get them all the way through the strut rods and cinched down tight where they pass through the spindle mount and strut rod, because I'm afraid I'm going to strip the threads of either the castle nut or the mount. Thanks for the help!
-- David
I got back into my garage and got most of my rear suspension loosely bolted together. All I have left is to tighten up the bolts and nuts, attach the new spring, and ghetto-align it for the shop to do the rest.
I replaced my lower shock mounts, and I was wondering how to get them all the way through the strut rods and cinched down tight where they pass through the spindle mount and strut rod, because I'm afraid I'm going to strip the threads of either the castle nut or the mount. Thanks for the help!
-- David
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,951
Likes: 1
From: Shore NJ
Originally Posted by rainman69
Well, I'm back from the Middle East, and I'm not sure I even said I was going over there, but oh well, I've been busy.
I got back into my garage and got most of my rear suspension loosely bolted together. All I have left is to tighten up the bolts and nuts, attach the new spring, and ghetto-align it for the shop to do the rest.
I replaced my lower shock mounts, and I was wondering how to get them all the way through the strut rods and cinched down tight where they pass through the spindle mount and strut rod, because I'm afraid I'm going to strip the threads of either the castle nut or the mount. Thanks for the help!
-- David
I got back into my garage and got most of my rear suspension loosely bolted together. All I have left is to tighten up the bolts and nuts, attach the new spring, and ghetto-align it for the shop to do the rest.
I replaced my lower shock mounts, and I was wondering how to get them all the way through the strut rods and cinched down tight where they pass through the spindle mount and strut rod, because I'm afraid I'm going to strip the threads of either the castle nut or the mount. Thanks for the help!
-- David
They can be difficult sometimes to put in as you know especially if the rods have poly. I've put them back several ways, I've blasted the shaft removing any rust and used bearing grease for a lubricant and a rubber mallet, align the flat spots on the shafts, the castle nut then works fine. I mount that end first loosly then the center strut mount, with the tires off for less pressure on the trailing arm. You can use a floor jack to raise and lower the arms... hope this helps...
Racer
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 399
Likes: 0
From: Chambersburg PA
Originally Posted by rainman69
I replaced my lower shock mounts, and I was wondering how to get them all the way through the strut rods and cinched down tight where they pass through the spindle mount and strut rod, because I'm afraid I'm going to strip the threads of either the castle nut or the mount. Thanks for the help!
-- David
-- David
1. Make sure the shockmount is mounted oriented correctly before installing. There is a flat on the bottom and it well not go in in any other direction.
2. I put one in upside down and stripped the threads and has to geet a replacement. As we often see the New "OEM" unit did not fit. There is a very slight knerl on the front side that was bigger than the opening so I had to open up the trailing arm JUST a weeee bit.
3. Like you I was afraid to really lay into the castle nut and my replacement shock mount does not mount flush to the trailing arm.
Hopefully someone can reply with a torque spec for that castle nut so we know how safe it is to lock her down.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,699
Likes: 1
From: Westampton NJ
I guess I should clarify...
I got it all the way through, and the shock mounts on both sides are in correct, with the flat face against the flat side of the bracket. The question I have centers around the little ridged segment, shown here in this picture:
Right here.........................\/
Image from Vette Brakes (the people I bought my stuff from).
So, all I need to do is get the shock mount "fully seated." Also, for getting it aligned, should I use the supplied locking nuts for where the lower mount of the shock is, or should I use non-locking nuts and then put the locking nuts on after I get it back from the alignment shop?
I got it all the way through, and the shock mounts on both sides are in correct, with the flat face against the flat side of the bracket. The question I have centers around the little ridged segment, shown here in this picture:
Right here.........................\/
Image from Vette Brakes (the people I bought my stuff from).
So, all I need to do is get the shock mount "fully seated." Also, for getting it aligned, should I use the supplied locking nuts for where the lower mount of the shock is, or should I use non-locking nuts and then put the locking nuts on after I get it back from the alignment shop?
Racer
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 399
Likes: 0
From: Chambersburg PA
That is what I was talking about in number 2 above. I also had a little ridge that was not fitting in the hole. I took a small drill mounted grinding stone and opened up the leading edge of the bracket just I little. The shock mount theat was origionally on the car did not have this little ridge but did have the kneerls. I clamped mine down but am still not flush with the bracket. That is why I'm looking for a torgue spec. I'm a little worried about stripping the threads or bending bracket.
I'm not too worried in the mean time however I was able to get the nut on plenty far enought to get the cotter pin in.
Just another joy of clasic car ownership. Reproduction parts that don't Quite fit.
I'm not too worried in the mean time however I was able to get the nut on plenty far enought to get the cotter pin in.
Just another joy of clasic car ownership. Reproduction parts that don't Quite fit.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,672
Likes: 1
From: New Cumberland PA
The knurl on the end is to help keep the mount from twisting. It should be tight, the tighter the better (until you have to remove it in the future). I do not know for sure, as I am at work, what the torque spec is on the nut. I would image in the 60 ft/lb area. I would tighten the nut and then give it a couple of whacks with a 4 pounder, I not suggesting you beat the sh_t out it. If the nut can then be tightened some more, then continue to nudge it in. If it requires to much force, then enlarge the hole a tad as mentioned.
The shock mount has nothing to do with alignment. Thighten it down with the castle nut and cotter pin. I never did an alignment and the only reson they may have to remove the shock would be to a little additional working area.
The shock mount has nothing to do with alignment. Thighten it down with the castle nut and cotter pin. I never did an alignment and the only reson they may have to remove the shock would be to a little additional working area.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,208
Likes: 438
From: Loir Valley Sarthe, France
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
I recall that the mounts were tight when I replaced them on mine. But, I put them in as far as I could and allignmed the flats etc, then tightened them down. My main conbcern was that the torque required would squeeze the two "loops" of the bearing carrier and either squash the trailing arm bushes or worse, snap the bearing carrier! But, neither seemed to happen and the mount went all the way home. The knurled section wil just "smooth itself out" as it goes into the hole. You shouldn't see it of course, as the faces should be tight together. No point in leaving the nut sloose for aligment, as this isn't part of the process... just the shims on the front of the trailing arm and the inner cams on the strut rods. Shocks, spring etc all need to be in place and in final places.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,699
Likes: 1
From: Westampton NJ
To all, thanks for the help and info. Here is what Robin at VB and P had to say when I asked the same question:
By the way, I got everything all done today, minus the pounding in of the shock mounts, so I took it for a quick drive around the parking lot. I forgot how loud 11:1 through headers, 2.5" pipes, and racing "mufflers" was...
I love Corvettes.
The best way is to pull it tight and then hit it with a hammer to drive the knurls in, This may need to be repeated several times to seat it. Also use a second hammer of a larger size to back up the fork mount.
By tightening only, the nut will strip out before it pulls in all the way.
By tightening only, the nut will strip out before it pulls in all the way.
By the way, I got everything all done today, minus the pounding in of the shock mounts, so I took it for a quick drive around the parking lot. I forgot how loud 11:1 through headers, 2.5" pipes, and racing "mufflers" was...
I love Corvettes.
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Racer
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 399
Likes: 0
From: Chambersburg PA
Thanks...I beat the crap out of mine and it still would not go...I guess the old rule still applies..."If at first you don't suceed get a bigger hammer" Thanks for your input, glad I didn't start cranking it down.
Going to go buy a bigger hammer
Going to go buy a bigger hammer
I know the feeling. The house felt empty after losing my shepherd last year, coming home and not having her greet us at the door
Racer
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 256
Likes: 0
From: saginaw texas
the same thing happened to me, pulled the threads on the nut 
I can tell you that Corvette Central is not on my happy list 
I put my shock mount in the freezer over night the next day it went right in.. torque is 75 footlbs + plus additional torqueto align the cotter pin.. hope this helps..
bushog
I can tell you that Corvette Central is not on my happy list I put my shock mount in the freezer over night the next day it went right in.. torque is 75 footlbs + plus additional torqueto align the cotter pin.. hope this helps..bushog
Racer
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 399
Likes: 0
From: Chambersburg PA
Originally Posted by petty44
I put my shock mount in the freezer over night the next day it went right in.. torque is 75 footlbs + plus additional torqueto align the cotter pin.. hope this helps..
bushog
bushog
Damn 75ftlbs really? Guess ya can crank that sucker.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 23,367
Likes: 1,061
From: Virginia USA
Originally Posted by 75rag4sp
In the freezer.....THAT IS FREAKING BRILLIANT !!!!!
Damn 75ftlbs really? Guess ya can crank that sucker.
Damn 75ftlbs really? Guess ya can crank that sucker.
Anyway I taught him that trick. It works well for bearing races also. 
Racer
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 399
Likes: 0
From: Chambersburg PA
Its a good trick. When I was just a wee punk I was an engineering intern for Torrington bearings during the summer months at college. believe it or not that was how some of the larger Aerospace berings are put together. That was why I smacked my own head for not thinking of that myself. Its really amazing how much heat and cold can mess with tolerances when you get to the high speed perscision level.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 439
Likes: 0
From: Mukilteo Washington
We actually use liquid nitrogen -350 deg, soak for a minimum of ten minutes, and hot potato it to the hole and pound it in with a large rivet gun, these are usually bushings and plugs.
Originally Posted by 75rag4sp
Its a good trick. When I was just a wee punk I was an engineering intern for Torrington bearings during the summer months at college. believe it or not that was how some of the larger Aerospace berings are put together. That was why I smacked my own head for not thinking of that myself. Its really amazing how much heat and cold can mess with tolerances when you get to the high speed perscision level.
