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Alternator Installation...Stupid Move!!

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Old Sep 28, 2004 | 10:16 PM
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Default Alternator Installation...Stupid Move!!

I was installing a new chrome alternator in my 75 and forgot to disconnect the battery first. As I was removing the old alternator, I disconnected the positive on the alternator and the wire fell from my hand and touched the alternator...A blue SPARK..POW! I said "Oh SH*T!!" and went to disconnect the battery..as I opened the door...NO interior lights, no NOTHING!...I disconnected the battery, replaced the new alternator, checked the fuse box (everything OK)...and STILL NOTHING...No lights, no starting, no NOTHING!!! HELP

What to do?
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Old Sep 28, 2004 | 10:19 PM
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Could be a fusible link got "smoked".
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Old Sep 28, 2004 | 10:20 PM
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what and where are the fusible links???
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Old Sep 28, 2004 | 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by vetteguy75
what and where are the fusible links???
A fusible link is a section of wire made to " burn up" if they are subject to an electrical over load. The section with the fusible link will feel " crunchy and stiff " instead of smooth and easily bendable.

Check for a wire about 3/16" in diameter ( usually black ) possibly at the positive terminal of the battery or at the firewall. The fusible link "area" is slightly larger and will be crunchy if "used".

They are inexpensive to purchased.

Sorry that I don't have an exact location.
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Old Sep 28, 2004 | 10:53 PM
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i was recently changing the alternator belt and the sweat in my gloves must have set off some sparks, but luckily for me nothing burned up, just a lesson that everyone should be more carefull when working around electrical systems (especially when i had gas pooled up around my intake manifold ), sorry i couldnt offer advice, hope you get things fixed up, and stay safe
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Old Sep 28, 2004 | 11:04 PM
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There are two down by the starter terminal. You probably blew both, one in and one out. I think they are 30 amp each and run about $5.99 each.
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Old Sep 28, 2004 | 11:17 PM
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Two fuses? What do they look like and where? Thanks If I had it towed to the Chevy dealership...how much would be a fair price to fix what I screwed up....

Last edited by vetteguy75; Sep 28, 2004 at 11:20 PM.
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 02:31 AM
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Originally Posted by vetteguy75
Two fuses? What do they look like and where? Thanks If I had it towed to the Chevy dealership...how much would be a fair price to fix what I screwed up....
Just trace the larger wires down by the starter and you should find a larger black section in line. Probably about an inch or so long. They are the fuseable links. Basically a non replaceable fuse. Once blown, you will have to cut them out of line and splice in new ones, which are available at most auto parts stores such as Autozone, etc. You can test them with a ohmmeter by looking for continuity across them from one side to the other. You can use a couple straight pins to pierce the wires insulation on each side of the link and attach the ohmmeter leads to. If open, then the link is blown and will need replacement.

My two cents worth is DON'T take it to a chevy dealer unless you are SURE they have a mechanic who knows old cars. Too many horror stories about modern techs screwing up older cars, even though it's a pretty simple and straight forward job. Check around and see if there is a good automotive electrical shop int he area. I'm sure they could do the repair, but then again you can probably do it yourself for well under $20 in parts.

FWIW. Good Luck!

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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 02:56 AM
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start under it at the starter before having it towed
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by vetteguy75
If I had it towed to the Chevy dealership...how much would be a fair price to fix what I screwed up....
You don't need Chevy to help you out, its only about a two beer job to replace the fuseable link.

Some tips for ya:
-When you strip the insulation off the cables be careful not to nick the wires inside.
-Mesh the wire strands of the car wires and the fuseable link wires together like a comb through hair, use a lot of solder.
-This is not the place to just twist the wires together or use marrettes.
-After it cools down from soldering use flush cutters to snip off any sharp wire strands that may be sticking out so there is less chance of poking through your electrical tape.
-Tightly wrap the solder connections with a lot of electrical tape & put some cable ties around the electrical tape so it won't ever peel off.
-Securely cable tie the finished product in place away from heat.
Thats what I would do anyways...
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 11:30 AM
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Thanks guys for all the input! I took it and had it towed to an automotive electrical shop a few miles from me. Since it was a Corvette, they jumped on it right away ( ) It was a fuseable link...they found it within 5 minutes (spent more time trying to get to it...cramped space), fixed it in 10 and charged me $25.00. Money WELL SPENT! Drove it out Leaned a valuable lesson: DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE WORKING ON ANYTHING ELECTRICAL.....adjusting the clock and retuning the radio stations are a small price to pay.....

Again thanks!

Last edited by vetteguy75; Sep 29, 2004 at 11:35 AM.
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by vetteguy75
Thanks guys for all the input! I took it and had it towed to an automotive electrical shop a few miles from me. Since it was a Corvette, they jumped on it right away ( ) It was a fuseable link...they found it within 5 minutes (spent more time trying to get to it...cramped space), fixed it in 10 and charged me $25.00. Money WELL SPENT! Drove it out Leaned a valuable lesson: DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE WORKING ON ANYTHING ELECTRICAL.....adjusting the clock and retuning the radio stations are a small price to pay.....

Again thanks!

Sounds like you have a good place to get your vehicles worked on

Glad it worked out for you

Jeff
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Old Sep 30, 2004 | 12:02 AM
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I have noticed that the first step listed for many jobs, even some that seem not really electrical is always, 1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
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