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I'm looking at a 69 Vette coupe to purchase. It has had a off frame restoration that cost $30K a few years ago. It has a hi-po 350 engine w/aluminum heads, aluminum intake and everything else new around it like coated headers, aluminum radiator w/electric fans and Holley carb. The only thing original is the 350 blocks and generates 450+ horses. It has a 6 speed transmission. Almost everything is new: suspension, bilstein shocks (all four), bushings, bearings, T/A's, Viper alarm, stainless fuel and brakes lines, fuel tank, water pump, windshield W/weatherstriping, 12cd changer, power brakes w/slotted rotors. The paint is in good to very good condition for a daily driver. Interior has been redone along with a 3 point roll bar. The entire engine and bay is spotless. Previous owner states $75,000 invested w/receipts. I would post pictures but for some reason I can't post attachments, maybe because I'm a newbie.
How much should a 69 Vette w/out any matching #'s with all the goodies this has be worth. I know it's hard to say with out inspecting it personally but just a guess with all the knowledge of Vettes on this board would be helpful. Thanks for any help that can be given.
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
go to the thread " how much money you have in your vette" and you will get some ideas on what these things wind up costing as a total package.... the nicer it is now the less you spend later. ...and you will spend later .
I agree it appears that the owner has made the modifications that make sense and left the car pretty much alone otherwise. This is not as bad as if it was a crazy body kit. I would say 15 for a coupe 20 for a vert if they are Super super clean.
If the car is as good as you say and everything was replaced or rebuilt in the frame off 18 to 20K would not be out of the question. This is for a very nice car in excellent condition. The better it is the less you will spend later on. Make sure you check everything on the car. Go through it very thoroughly.
If the car is as good as you say and everything was replaced or rebuilt in the frame off 18 to 20K would not be out of the question. This is for a very nice car in excellent condition. The better it is the less you will spend later on. Make sure you check everything on the car. Go through it very thoroughly.
Hello everyone!
I'm new to posting on the boards, but have been following these great threads closely since I've acquired my new baby (69 TT 4sp PW/PS/AC 350/300). She needs a full restoration, and I plan on doing the works to her just like this 69. Unlike this one I plan on storing the numbers matching drive train. How much of a difference in value would it make to have the original drive train, but not installed?
Thank you for all the past and future posts. This site is great!!
I would have guessed in the upper part of the $ range but I don't know Vette's like you guys. I know prices on these kind of things are subjective. The owner is asking $16,500.
I just sold my 67 Shelby Replica for much more than this and the Vette out shines the Shelby Replica in every way.
Opinions on what to check on the 69 would be helpful. Are there any problem areas the 69 have that should be looked into?
From the condition described, I'd say $16,500 is a fair price and predict will sell in a relatively short amount of time (< 6 mo). It sounds to me that the owner spared no expense in building it the way he wanted it. The car could prabably get more (again assuming it is in excellent condition) if the owner is willing to wait for the right buyer.
Also, most people that want that type of car prefer to build it themselves, or don't have that kind of cash for a "toy".
How much the guy has in receipts and invested is irrelevant. It's value/worth is what someone is willing to pay and what the market will bear.
I agree with this... and this is why I think the car is easily worth $20+k in the as-described condition. Sure its not original. It's _better_ than original as far as the mechanical stuff (engine, driveline, suspension) goes. Assuming the body is indeed in very good shape, I'd say its worth every penny.
But then again I'm biased b/c I am more on the performance side of things, and a well-kept C3 that has upgraded performance is all the better to me. It's a "resto-mod" which means it brings less $$, but in many cases is a better overall car to drive.
It is indeed all in the eye of the beholder, and as others have said, the more you pay now, the less you'll pay later. Will you lose money on it when it comes time to sell it? I seriously doubt it. The $$ has been spent. It may take a bit longer to get a buyer than for a #s matching car, but there are plenty of people who want a solid car that performs right and can be driven anytime and are less concerned with every nut and bolt being "correct".
If given a choice on buying a real good numbers matching 69 for $12k to $15K or buying a restored, modified, updated non-matching, full of all the goodies, I take the latter. I wonder what shape it was in prior to being restored. Ask him if he's got pictures. I would not only like to see the receipts, but to check out to make sure they are for real. What is his motivation to sell it? I do not think the average Joe will just blow off a $60K loss. Now if he bought for $5K 10 years ago and only threw $10K or $20K into it because it needed tons of work, then I could understand him selling it for $16k. Is he the Do-It-yourself type? Perhaps he did the off the frame restoration and thinks it was a $30K resto job because he watched the Barrett-Jackson show on speed and that's what a true professional may have charged.
I would definitely take a real close look at it. Have it put on a lift. There should be considerable and clear evidence of a restoration. Too many times a person gets a 'woody' and the blood flows to the wrong head.
I agree...Now what my Grand Daddy knew about Corvettes you could fit in a thinbel but he had some good advice, "Everything is worth Nuthing till somone gives you something for it" Esentially never be afraid to offer what its worth to YOU. Course allong came eBay and cut a lot of us out of the deal...LOL
You asked about identifying weak spots on a 69 and where to look. The frame should be examined carefully, especially in front of the rear wheels. The end plate on the boxed frame section there is easy to see and inspect for rust damage. Bring a bathroom mirror and look at the body mount #4 inboard side of the rear wheels. You might even remove the #3 body mount inspection plate in front of the rear wheels and take a peek. If a body off was done, you shouldn't see rust in these areas. In short, the birdcage and frame are prone to rust in these models and can be very costly and time consuming to repair. The birdcage is the metal frame to which all the fiberglass body panels are attached, including the windshield frame. Look for spiderweb cracks in the paint, this is an indicator the fiberglass underneith is cracked and in need of repair. If everything looks good to you and you get serious, spend the money to have a professional evaluate what it will need. It could be the best money you will spend.
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