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I have a cracked exhaust manifold (cast). My friend who has many differnt types of welders and has been doing it for quite some time says that he can weld the cast iron and fix the crack.
When I mention this to mechanics they kind of look at me funny and say "cast iron? can't be done".
So my question is ... can it?
My friend said that you have to get it really hot like 2000 degrees or something. NOt sure if I should raise the flag or let him at it and see how it goes. He is a good aluminum welder as well as stainless and all that jazz. His dad welded the stainless tanks at Budweiser for quite a few years so I think he knows his stuff.
Yes I have seen it done many times. I was in a tool show a couple of months ago and there was a guy across the aisle tha twas doing just that. He had a cast iron exhaust manifold that had cracked in half and he was welding it back together. If he is a good welder and knows his stuff it can be done.
Cast welding is an art. Low temp stuff like blocks and heads is no problem "if" the welder know his stuff. The only guy that did work for me recently passed away (major bummer!), but his proccess was this: He cast up his own blended arc welding rod, heated the work piece in a pottery oven, and then CAREFULLY welded the crack. The trick is to keep the work area a consistant temprature to prevent further cracking adjacent to the fix. It would go back in the oven two or three times. No one (to my knowledge) has successfully been able to weld cracked exhaust manifolds because of the heat they are subjected to. Used manifolds have been cycled (heated and cooled) so many times it changes the iron somehow and makes it almost impossible to weld. Often if one is cracked, you'll notice that the iron has crystalized and comes apart in crumbs, and is not repairable. Hope this helps.
Yes I have seen it done many times. I was in a tool show a couple of months ago and there was a guy across the aisle tha twas doing just that. He had a cast iron exhaust manifold that had cracked in half and he was welding it back together. If he is a good welder and knows his stuff it can be done.
Very cool! What type of welding? On some rare piece, that would be handy.
Well its actually for my Daily Driver (honda shhhhh). And I did get a nice stainless header for it and put it on. However the header I got is just about 1/2" too short so that I have to pull the rest of the pipe (cat convert) up to meet it. So the pipe doesn't line up 100% and its got a very small exhaust leak. Plus a new rattle from somewhere.
I was thinking about just letting him weld my original manifold and then I could just resell the header. Nothing like stock to fit correctly. Makes me think twice about headers for the Vette.
A stock manifold from honda is 260 bucks. Used I found one for 160. The Stainless header (its nice) was 90. I am on a budget or I would have just got the stock manifold.
Oh and im not trying to rice out the Honda by any means, the tailpipe is and will remain stock. Just trying to fix annoying exhaust leaks.
From the response I have gotten it looks like it IS possible. The metal is not crystalized or breaking apart, just a crack. So I will have him give it a shot.
Good 'ol Hondas. They didn't vent the shield properly (Toyota 4 banger trucks do this too), it builds WAY to much heat and they crack! Neat, huh? Cut a couple of slots (louvers) in the tin cover to prevent a repeat. Toyota sells the louvered cover for their 20-22R engines. I'll stick with Subaru for my wife's daily driver. Heck, I don't have to work on it!
Good 'ol Hondas. They didn't vent the shield properly (Toyota 4 banger trucks do this too), it builds WAY to much heat and they crack! Neat, huh? Cut a couple of slots (louvers) in the tin cover to prevent a repeat.
I wondered why the heck it did that. Thanks for the explanation. The shield doesn't have any vents and I have heard that its common on the EX (127hp) model. THe dirty bastids haha.... Time to cut up the shield if I decide to reinstall.
Certain types of cast iron (white cast iron for example) cannot be welded, but I'm pretty sure an exhaust manifold can be. There is definitely a technique though.
Cast iron does not get crumbly from heating and cooling in fact its extremely sable that’s why they use it for blocks, heads, manifolds ect. There is no such a material as white cast iron you must be thinking of die cast or pot metal completely different animal. Any competent welder can weld cast iron.
The terms white cast iron, nodular cast iron, flake iron etc are all terms stating the form that the carbon is found in. Some like white cast iron are extremely hard while nodular cast iron is very shoft,'
Cast iron can be welded with nickle rod but brazing with golden rod and the proper flux is very successful.
Just looking through a welding manual the other day. Cast iron CAN be welded but because of it's brittle nature it doesn't take to well to the localized heat involved in most kinds of welding so any cracks just propagate away from the area being welded. The entire casting must be heated uniformly before being welded in order to avoid the highly localized expansion at the hot area near the weld. The welding manual goes on to recommend brazing as an alternative as it doesn't require as high temperatures. Nickel welding rod is recommended if welding is necessary.
Cast iron does not get crumbly from heating and cooling in fact its extremely sable that’s why they use it for blocks, heads, manifolds ect. There is no such a material as white cast iron you must be thinking of die cast or pot metal completely different animal. Any competent welder can weld cast iron.
OK, I'll re-phrase that. When OVERHEATED (like under a badly designed heat shield/riser), the exhaust manifold can crack, often into many small, brittle pieces in a small concentrated area. Ironically, the most common manifold that shows this is the SB chevy, RH side under the riser to the air cleaner, on early 70's to mid 80's.
We see a bunch of this in Norcal, surely due to the extreme (100 +)summer temps and the heat riser on that side.
From: Ville de la Baie Quebec. A winner is just a loser who tried again.
I've welded many exhauste manifolds with excelent results,, weather with a stick or tig,,, the secret is pre-heat the whole part to about 500 to 600 deg, weld, and place it back in the oven and turn off the heat, let cool down 24hrs, you can allso bury it in asbestos powder, or even sand work good,, the idee is to let it cool very slowly and evenly. You have to make sure you have the proper welding rod.