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Sorry, don't know if this is a stupid question. I jacked up my rear end to install my new fiberglass rear spring and bilstein shocks. I noticed while i was under there that i can move my right rear wheel when i hold it at 12 and 6, indicating that the wheel bearing needs to be tightened up a bit and inspected. The left rear, and fronts all seem ok. How does one tighten the rear wheel bearings on a c3?
There is no way to "tighten" them up. If the bearing is bad, you will have to replace the bearing assemble in the trailing arm. Best to pull the trailing arm and send to a supporting vendor. That is what I plan on doing when I have mine redone.
I believe it has been stated that 6-12 o'clock is bushings. At 3-9 o'clock is bearings.
Unfortunately when a bearing(s) are worn, they need to be replaced. A set of bearings and seals will cost about $35 to $50 depending on where you buy them. The job is not too difficult but does require some additional tools. I prefer to do as much work as I can without paying someone else to do it. I now have about $135 wrapped up in these special tools. I have completed one side and will be finishing up the other side in about a week. The end play of the spindle has to be within a ceertain tolerance. The job does take time or at least for me. Once you have an idea of what to expect, the other side can be done in 1/3 the time. My recommendation is to do a complete rebuild; bearings and all bushings. These parts are not that expensive and this way you will not be back under the car for a decade or two (or three). The downside is that the car will be out of commision for several weeks unless you have more time to spend on it than I do.
12 & 6 is side yokes in the rear. 3 & 9 is the bearings. How much did it move? Have some one push at 12 & 6 whille you look at the side yokes. You'll see them moving in and out of the diff.
I did mine myself 10 years ago & the only tool I bought was a spindle knocker. You need a mini sledge hammer too & wack on it for about a half hour.
You were quite fortunate if you already had the outer bearing puller, setup tool or old spindle, tool to press the bearings on, and dial indicator to check end play. Many of us do not have these items at our disposal. Those items are not tools that would be nice to have if changing bearings but a necessity. My initial end play with the original bearings before diasassembly was .006" . After replacing the bearings it was .015". Although it is possible to throw a set of bearings in, I for one would not recommend it without checking it. There has been too much talk of brake problems from not having the correct shim in there. Too much play and air can get behind the brake pistons. I set my end play to .0015" .