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Old Oct 11, 2004 | 09:32 PM
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Default Brake problem...

I have a brake problem and wondered if anyone has experienced the same thing. Drivers side rear wheel was warm after a few miles. Pulled the wheel and checked the pads, they were loose in the caliper which is normal. Pulled the pads and cleaned the caliper, hand working the pistons and found no rust, nothing sticking and reinstalled the pads. Went for a ride and came back and shot all calipers and rotors with a temp gun (great item). The fronts and passenger side rear were consistant within 5-6 degrees 75-80, the left rear was 139 degrees. Possibly a blockage in one of the lines/kinked, I checked the lines and found no kinks but the lines are old, maybe some breakdown in the interior of the rubber lines.
I don't think it's a rear bearing, it would of made alot of grinding and vibration, I've ordered new Stainless lines for the fronts and rears from VBP and will bleed the system first before I go farther and install new calipers, thanks for your imput guys...
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Old Oct 11, 2004 | 11:14 PM
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
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and is there any drag on that wheel when you jack up the car and spin the wheel? could your parking brake be causing the problem, ie, stuck and generating heat?
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Old Oct 12, 2004 | 04:03 AM
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Sounds like you may have a frozen piston. You should be able to break in a straight line with no pulls either left or right. The steel calibers will rust, and it is a simple fix just time consuming. You will be bleeding the brakes until your blue in the face. Split the caliber and hone the damaged piston. You may want to consider tackling all of them. I did my over a week period on one caliber at a time.

Ron
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Old Oct 12, 2004 | 09:53 AM
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FYI I had a similar problem with 1 yr old Stainless calipers. Replaced the hoses and trailing arm lines with Stainless units...bleed everything out and so far so good. Could be a swollen line. the hoses are VERY thick and if they swell thay can catually close off...Think of is as brake cholesteral.
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Old Oct 12, 2004 | 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by bobs77vet
and is there any drag on that wheel when you jack up the car and spin the wheel? could your parking brake be causing the problem, ie, stuck and generating heat?
That's my thinking as well. Unless you feel a pull when you hit the (real) brakes, then chances are it's something else.
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Old Oct 12, 2004 | 03:49 PM
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I'm going to bet (though not my life savings) that changing the lines will solve your problem. I had identical symptoms and it turned out to be a collapsed brake line.
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Old Oct 12, 2004 | 04:02 PM
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Just went thru the same thing and the culprit was a faulty brake line.

Kona
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Old Oct 12, 2004 | 04:54 PM
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Huh - I would bet on the parking brake shoes dragging, but
now I wonder ... a brake line ? Strange - it seems.

Anyway - before replacing the lines, jack up the rear wheels and spin
the side in question to check for any drag/noise.

Maybe a bad Ujoint ? I would think that to be very noisy, also.

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Old Oct 12, 2004 | 05:11 PM
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
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Just out of curiosity any hydraulic engineers out there?? or does
any body want to posture a guess on how a brake line would only allow a one way flow of fluid to the caliper and then keep the pressure level flowing to the caliper when no brake pedal pressure is applied??? i can see a swollen rubber hose trying to compress to exert presure but it would flow both to the caliper and to the mst cyl side.
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Old Oct 12, 2004 | 06:13 PM
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Had a similar problem on my 1976 model. Replaced the parking brakes with a kit that has stainless steel hardware, this job was a pita, for me anyway. But what I found was that on both sides the top (return) spring was broken and laying at the bottom of the drum. The parking brake still can't hold the car on a steep incline with the nose low, it holds very well with the tail low though. By the way, check the price of these kits at several places, I found up to a $75.00 difference in price for these kits (and I don't mean regular shoes vs SS shoes, this was on regular shoe kits).
And I agree an infrared thermometer is a very good service tool, everyone should get one.
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Old Oct 12, 2004 | 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by bobs77vet
Just out of curiosity any hydraulic engineers out there?? or does
any body want to posture a guess on how a brake line would only allow a one way flow of fluid to the caliper and then keep the pressure level flowing to the caliper when no brake pedal pressure is applied??? i can see a swollen rubber hose trying to compress to exert presure but it would flow both to the caliper and to the mst cyl side.
No hyd engineer here but what some times happens is the brake pedal applies a lot of pressure to the caliper. Then when it is released there is no pressure pushing back just flowing backwards. What happens if there is some blockage it allows the fluid to go into the caliper but very slowly come back out of the caliper. This causes some drag on the caliper for a while until the fluid comes back out. The hyd hoses usually swell leaving just a small orfice for the fluid to go back and forth in.
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Old Oct 12, 2004 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by bobs77vet
Just out of curiosity any hydraulic engineers out there?? or does
any body want to posture a guess on how a brake line would only allow a one way flow of fluid to the caliper and then keep the pressure level flowing to the caliper when no brake pedal pressure is applied??? i can see a swollen rubber hose trying to compress to exert presure but it would flow both to the caliper and to the mst cyl side.

It could be the rubber hose, it can be swollen and acting like a check valve. You have lots of pressure in the sytem when applying the brake, however once the pressure is build up in the caliper there's nothing forcing it back through the system...let's assume the rubber line is swollen and it takes (just for example) 80psi to press the fluid through, then after releasing the brake pedeal you could have 75 psi in the caliper ...
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Old Oct 12, 2004 | 09:48 PM
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
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gordonm... ok i can see what you are saying but the time that it would take to equalize would have to be relatively short in duration wouldn't it ?... similar to water finding its own level. It seems to me that 59 degree temp differnce is pretty significant and not accomplished easily over a short time. I also would think that if drag on the wheel was noticed immediately after applying the brakes and then dissipated after a little while it could be exactly what you described. but if the drag was a constant and did not dissipate over the time its something else.
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Old Oct 12, 2004 | 09:51 PM
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
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Originally Posted by RedBad1979
It could be the rubber hose, it can be swollen and acting like a check valve. You have lots of pressure in the sytem when applying the brake, however once the pressure is build up in the caliper there's nothing forcing it back through the system...let's assume the rubber line is swollen and it takes (just for example) 80psi to press the fluid through, then after releasing the brake pedeal you could have 75 psi in the caliper ...

great explanation thanks,
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