Shifter rattle...Muncie 4spd
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 5,635
Likes: 4
From: Orlando Floriduh
Shifter rattle...Muncie 4spd
I have tried for over a year to eliminate the rattle from the reverse lock out. Stiffer longer sping, No help. The rattle or buzz is very loud at 3500 RPM up in any gear. I have a new rear mount and the engine doesn't seen to be vibrating.... Just the shifter. I can put my hand on it and the buzz goes away. Any ideas?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 2,664
Likes: 1
From: Boston MA
Same problem here - on a '78 L82
Somewhat reduced the vibration by changing the distributor advance weight bushings - the old ones were worn through, and there was probably some weight wobble happening at high RPM. Engine is noticeably smoother now, and as a result less shifter rattle. But I don't think this is major cause.
Somewhat reduced the vibration by changing the distributor advance weight bushings - the old ones were worn through, and there was probably some weight wobble happening at high RPM. Engine is noticeably smoother now, and as a result less shifter rattle. But I don't think this is major cause.
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
From: Minot ND
I used a old post on the forum which somebody recommend putting grease around the reverse body...........works for my BW T-10 to around 80mph.........i have scratched my head over the exact same thing.........good luck
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 8,897
Likes: 1,357
From: Santa Ana CA
Originally Posted by Larry B.
I have tried for over a year to eliminate the rattle from the reverse lock out. Stiffer longer sping, No help. The rattle or buzz is very loud at 3500 RPM up in any gear. I have a new rear mount and the engine doesn't seen to be vibrating.... Just the shifter. I can put my hand on it and the buzz goes away. Any ideas?
Pro
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 723
Likes: 0
From: North Port, FL
I had a vibration in my shifter that turned out to be caused by the transmission and the rear end setting at slightly different angles. I had to cut the rear end front mount rubber bushing in half to lower the front of the rear end and place shims under the transmission mount. With the thinner bushing and the transmission mount shims the rear end pinion shaft was paralell to the transmission output shaft. The pinion shaft and the transmission output shaft do not need to be aligned but do need to be within about 2 degrees of parallel to avoid vibration.
Racer
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 315
Likes: 0
From: North Richland Hills TX
My 80 has been vibrating bad...I replaced the clamps that hold down the shifter cuz I was told the old ones were worn...nope, I greased the shifter up and it helped for a lil while...but back again...found out its my transmission "howling"...bushings going bad down in there, possibility on yours too?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,065
Likes: 1,395
From: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
Simple solution to shifter rattle.
Remove the ball, remove the "T" reverse lockout.
Roll an "O" ring over the shifter down to where the reverse lockout
rests.
You can get a variety of "O" ring sizes from the plumbing dept at your local hardware store.
Get one that is slightly smaller in diameter than the threaded part of the shifter.
Re assemble "T" and ball.
It cured mine 100%.
Barry
Remove the ball, remove the "T" reverse lockout.
Roll an "O" ring over the shifter down to where the reverse lockout
rests.
You can get a variety of "O" ring sizes from the plumbing dept at your local hardware store.
Get one that is slightly smaller in diameter than the threaded part of the shifter.
Re assemble "T" and ball.
It cured mine 100%.
Barry
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Verdad Gallardo
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 23,375
Likes: 1,067
From: Virginia USA
Originally Posted by Barry's70LT1
Simple solution to shifter rattle.
Remove the ball, remove the "T" reverse lockout.
Roll an "O" ring over the shifter down to where the reverse lockout
rests.
You can get a variety of "O" ring sizes from the plumbing dept at your local hardware store.
Get one that is slightly smaller in diameter than the threaded part of the shifter.
Re assemble "T" and ball.
It cured mine 100%.
Barry
Remove the ball, remove the "T" reverse lockout.
Roll an "O" ring over the shifter down to where the reverse lockout
rests.
You can get a variety of "O" ring sizes from the plumbing dept at your local hardware store.
Get one that is slightly smaller in diameter than the threaded part of the shifter.
Re assemble "T" and ball.
It cured mine 100%.
Barry
I went a little different route. I took one of those round flat gaskets that is in the end of a garden hose (black of course) trimed it to fit and you can't even notice it. Cured the rattle 100%!!!
Race Director
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 10,643
Likes: 8
From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
Originally Posted by toddalin
Do what I do... keep your hand on the stick.
http://www.viperclub.org/faq/tsbfaq.html
http://www.rogueengineering.com/Merc...gory_Code=SNNN
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 20,216
Likes: 4
From: Smile, it's just the internet.
Didn't seem to bother my Jeep. I sold it with the ORIGINAL clutch and transmission after a quarter MILLION miles (250,000) and it was still going strong. Wish I could say the same for the engine. Leaked like a seive...
