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Old Oct 22, 2004 | 01:15 PM
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Default Best Garage Floor???

Seems like several of us are doing garage builds/rebuilds - I want opinions on the best flooring - I will have new concrete (6in with Fiber mesh) and right now am planning on painting with epoxy.

One person said that epoxy would peel? I have heard of that if you don't get all the grease off the floor but I am thinking it shouldn't be an issue with a new floor.

Thoughts or alternatives??
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Old Oct 22, 2004 | 02:10 PM
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I have had epoxy on my garage floor for 3 years without any peeling or hot tire lift, the only chips in the finish have been from me dropping something heavy on the floor. You will need to wait for the concrete to fully cure (6 months or so) before putting the epoxy down or it will peel because of the moisture still coming out of the concrete.

Jay
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Old Oct 22, 2004 | 02:18 PM
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not what you want to hear .. but, i say leave it alone because...
on a natural floor i can weld on it, grind on it, heat metal on it, drop stuff on it, spill stuff on it, don't have to worry about spilling solvents... etc

now having said that if you don't do that type of work look at the Griots (sp?) catalog there floors look great!! i especially like the white and black squares
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Old Oct 22, 2004 | 02:23 PM
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Thanks for the input! My "shop area" is connected by a 7' opening (big enough to roll a chassis through) but separate from the garage area I think where I am coming down is to epoxy the garage area and leave the "shop" area where the heavy work happens.

I don't know how to spell it either but the Groit's catalog looks great - pricey but nicely done.
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Old Oct 22, 2004 | 02:50 PM
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cool set up.......then black and white tile has my vote
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Old Oct 22, 2004 | 02:53 PM
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I have the two part epoxy on my floor and it's great. I got it from Home depot and comes in either Gray or Tan, and you can put colored flakes in it but I left them out for a smooth surface.

You do need to let the concrete cure but I'm not sure you'd have to wait 6 months. I can't say how long my concrete was poured before I did mine. I coated mine just before I moved in to a brand new house.

I've spilled everything on it and it just wipes up. I have scuffed the finish draging my floor jack across the surface but it's still there. I've even done burn-outs on it - accidently of course.
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Old Oct 22, 2004 | 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by spf72
Seems like several of us are doing garage builds/rebuilds - I want opinions on the best flooring - I will have new concrete (6in with Fiber mesh) and right now am planning on painting with epoxy.

One person said that epoxy would peel? I have heard of that if you don't get all the grease off the floor but I am thinking it shouldn't be an issue with a new floor.

Thoughts or alternatives??
I used the Rust-O-Leum Epoxy from Home Depot (about $60.00/ kit) One kit will do a one car garage. Since you have new concrete you will have to let it cure for several months and then clean it with the cleaner that comes with the paint. (don't forget that step - its VERY important.)

One thing to keep in mind since you live in Maine. If you pull a wet car into the garage the water will puddle on the floor, it won't soak in. If your garage isn't heated you'll have to deal with the ice.
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Old Oct 22, 2004 | 03:32 PM
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Good point on the heat - I am putting in a Monitor hater and expect to keep it around 55 all the time and 65 when I am working out there.
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Old Oct 22, 2004 | 06:56 PM
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You might want to consider installing a radiant floor heating system. They work very well and are very cheap to operate when properly installed.
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Old Oct 22, 2004 | 07:16 PM
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There are a bunch of companies making this type of flooring.

http://www.locktile-usa.com/garages.htm#

There was one at a home show this summer with some floor from another company (Garage Tech?? or something). Very cool - the tiles interlock so they go in very rapidly and are supposed to be impervious to all chemicals, etc. They also have wall systems that take the place of drywall. Cabinets hang on it, etc. I will probably go this route when I refurbish the garage. The last floor I did with supposed epoxy simply peeled off. It was installed on virgin concrete and peeled! Never again with any type of paint for me...
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Old Oct 22, 2004 | 07:18 PM
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You will need 30 days for the concrete to cure. After that..just give it a good wash and let it dry. The rustoleum kits you get at Home Depot are fine. If you want to get a better system. Use the rustoleum 9100 series two part. Its a heavy duty system. I requires two coats but is bullet proof.

When I said wash it..I meant with a degreaser or acid...you want the epoxy to bite into the concrete.

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Old Oct 22, 2004 | 09:20 PM
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1)Anyone color the cement in their garage floor prior to puring it?


2)What about printing the poured cement in the garage floor?
I have seen cement walkways (I have one) printed and it looks cool.

3)The black and white ceramic tile is very nice, but you'll be afraid to work on it for fear of chipping it when dropping something heavy or staining it with all the goodie stuff we use in our garages. I know that, because I have a 24X24 double attached garage on the side of the house with black and white ceramic tile on the floor.

That's why I'm building a monster attached garage on the other side and thus attaching the existing 24X24 detached garage that is 30 feet away to the house as well. The ceramic tile one on the other side will be turned into some type of a rec room
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Old Oct 22, 2004 | 10:01 PM
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30 days is all that's required for the concrete to cure, it ought to be fine by the time you're ready to move in.

Good choice with the fibermesh. However, depending on which fiber you choose, you'll have some sticking out of the finished floor. With some brands, the exposed fiber will deteriorate under UV light, so they may be gone before the garage is dried in. If they're larger fibers, and they're still visible, you might not like the epoxy finish as it will really show the fibers. You'd be better off appearance wise with the tile surface (i.e. Griot's).

I used a 'micro-fiber' in my slab, and there were no exposed fibers by the time I moved in the house. I used the two-part Rust-Oleum epoxy, and I'm very pleased with it. It's durable, spills of all types of fluid wipe up easily, and it does not peel. The surface prep is the most important step, even on brand new concrete.
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Old Oct 23, 2004 | 09:20 AM
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Thanks for the posts - I believe it is a fiber mesh and I have been assured there will be no exposed fibers. The guy doing the floor is very good and says they can "polish" the thing. I just came from looking at one that they put black coloring in with a dimond shaped cut (so it won't crack) and it looks amazing - looks like a black pearl - very shiny, almost can see reflections. Not sure how it would hold up to spills though - anyone have this?
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Old Oct 23, 2004 | 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by griffths
I have had epoxy on my garage floor for 3 years without any peeling or hot tire lift, the only chips in the finish have been from me dropping something heavy on the floor. You will need to wait for the concrete to fully cure (6 months or so) before putting the epoxy down or it will peel because of the moisture still coming out of the concrete.

Jay
I agree with Jay!

I painted my floor 2 years ago, and it only shows wear from things dropped on it.... there is no pealing anywhere. I weld, cut and grind metal all the time, and have very little damage from the work.

My floor was fresh concrete, and I waited for 90 days to cure. I did a moisture test in several places to confirm that it was cured before I started prepping the floor.

If I had to do it over, I would do the same thing again, but also add a clear coat for more protection. Here is a shot of my garage:


To see the steps I took in painting the floor, check out my website:

www.bigdogvettes.com
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Old Oct 23, 2004 | 04:53 PM
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This is what I used on my garage floor....works great.

http://www.motormat.com/main.html

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Old Oct 23, 2004 | 07:05 PM
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Nice looking garage!! I went to your site - off topic but did you make the body dolly? I have the instructions to do it but haven't made it yet.
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Old Oct 23, 2004 | 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by spf72
Thanks for the posts - I believe it is a fiber mesh and I have been assured there will be no exposed fibers. The guy doing the floor is very good and says they can "polish" the thing. I just came from looking at one that they put black coloring in with a dimond shaped cut (so it won't crack) and it looks amazing - looks like a black pearl - very shiny, almost can see reflections. Not sure how it would hold up to spills though - anyone have this?
A good finisher can do a good job getting the fibers to lay down in a burnished finish. FYI - concrete is guaranteed to do two things - get hard, and crack. Even with the cuts (control joints) - it will crack. The joints are there to control where the cracks occur. The fiber will keep the cracks from widening. It sounds like you've picked a good concrete contractor, and I'm sure your shop will be awesome. Looking forward to pictures of the finished product.

edit: also - on the color - an integral color should not be affected by spills. In addition, if you chip the floor, it's not as noticeable, as the color is consistent throughout the mix. you might notice a difference in texture, or in a bad chip, exposed aggregate, but the color should be consistent.

Last edited by Jeff 6T9; Oct 23, 2004 at 09:02 PM.
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Old Oct 23, 2004 | 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by spf72
Nice looking garage!! I went to your site - off topic but did you make the body dolly? I have the instructions to do it but haven't made it yet.
Thanks!

I built the body dolly following Nolan Adams plan. Not hard at all to build, took me a couple of hours to assemble it. Be sure to get a good set of heavy duty casters. I used too small a caster at first, but I replaced them with heavier duty casters when most all of the bearings were sqeezed out of the first set.
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Old Oct 23, 2004 | 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Summerfun
3)The black and white ceramic tile is very nice, but you'll be afraid to work on it for fear of chipping it when dropping something heavy or staining it ....

I agree that ceramic tile would be my last choice, for all the reasons you mentioned. In fact i can't even think about rolling a hydraulic floor jack over it. I was thinking of a thinner material like Lineolum, i know thats not what it is made of any more but some manmade material like that..what ever the thin flooring tiles they sell at Home depot type stores.
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