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I've blasted all the bolts so they are clean. What should I prep them with before reuse so they don't rust. We're they originally left metal color or were they painted the frame color?
I'm not sure what the original treatment was but I had all my fasteners galvanized & chromate dipped, they have a nice luster that's pretty wear & corrosion resistant.
Yes, it can be a problem. It is caused by 2 things, the reduction at the cathode and the acid dipping. Clearly the acid dipping can easily be eliminated by blasting the parts, as for the plating, the majority occurs at edges (high current density). However, hot dip galvanizing envolves a bath of almost pure molten zinc, this is different from zinc electroplating so you can eliminate the 2nd problem area also.
I've blasted all the bolts so they are clean. What should I prep them with before reuse so they don't rust. We're they originally left metal color or were they painted the frame color?
During my frame off project I tried just about everything to get that new look. after much labor and many "well, that didnt work" I just bought all new hardware. I spent about $300 and it made a huge differance in the overall look of the project.
None so far, some bolts are a little tighter than they used to be, especially the ones used on the suspension parts (cross shaft bolts) but not too bad.
How do you galvanize your own bolts?? I have never refinished bolts but bought new. I don't sandplast bolt either because of the damage to the threads, If I am reusing a bolt I just use the wire brush on my grinder.
I have painted heads in the past but found replacing is the easiest.
I have alot of zinc and an oven. Are you saying I could just dip a clean sand blasted bolt in the molten zinc and it would plate thin coat on it???
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
i have never used it but Eastwood has been selling this for years, it is a "tin zinc electro plating system". again i can not vouch for its effectiveness/quality. although i have been satsified with other purchases from them.
I soak my hardware in solvent for a day or so then brush off the majority of the gunk. Then I move to the wire wheel. Paint the heads and install almost all of the hardware with anti-sieze.
When you paint the heads, what color are you using? For the ones that I've put back, like 8 of them, I coated with antiseize...then I decided to get the forum's input.
When I painted my chassis with a satin black the remainder of the paint I had my local paint shop put in rattle cans for me. So I use that for small parts and bolt heads. Eastwood sells rattle cans of chassis black.
From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
Originally Posted by Smokin Joe
I've blasted all the bolts so they are clean. What should I prep them with before reuse so they don't rust. We're they originally left metal color or were they painted the frame color?
Each needs to be cleaned now with a wire wheel. Lube each one with 30W oil upon assembly.
I used a lot of stainless steel fasteners as well, but they are way too soft for certain applications, like suspension.
You saying the rear trailing arm cross bolt through the frame/shims/bushing has to be hard steel?? and NOT stainless???
seems rong to me, anyway, what with the bushing takng impacts and the thrust NEVER enough to shear one bolt, let alone two of them twice...being 4 sheer points afterall....
The best bolt for that application would be a grade 4 or 5 bolt so it has some give. I would not use stainless bolts in stressed *being it dynamically or statically) situations, only for costmetical appearance would I use it and for small fasteners. You also have to remember the galvanic table, a lot of people tend to forget.
I borrow stainless hardware from the hardware bins at work.
Work called. They want their stainless hardware back that you borrowed. By the way, since you're returning it late, you lose your deposit. Sorry. Company policy. I don't make the rules, you know, I just have to enforce them.