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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
just recently last two weeks or so another forum member had alot of issues with his wiring on his fan and he got lot of good advice from people. if you search the forum and can find this post it will help you out.
From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
For some reason the way I had the fans wired caused too much of a load on the ignition. That caused the engine to either die completely or start sputtering.
Note that this was one of the very first posts about my sputtering....I've had a few.
The last was solved by switching out carbs to a bigger, new Holley.
I now have a slight stumble right after shifting into 2nd & 3rd. Tach will read about 2000 after I shift up. I talked to a "car" guy yesterday who has a "Motion" clone and he said it might just be the cam not coming alive till after 2500. Which could be true.
Then carried the ignition lead to the fuse box, the battery lead to the starter and the temp sensor lead to the passenger side head. When I pulled the passenger side header to get a clear working area for the starter, I noticed a plug in the head between cylinders 6 and 8. So I pulled it and put the temp sensor there. This pic is of the plug before I pulled it and put the sensor in.
I put the relays on the front fender well. I also bought a junction box from madelectric.com and wired it in after the alternator as was suggested by Gary at Mad Electric using soldering and correct terminals. I have the junction box mounted on the drvier's side firewall. Finally I used flexible conduit to hide all the wire. Call Gary at Mad Electric, tell hm what you are doing and he will send you everything you need and advise you. This was the best $40 I have spent on the car.
Wow, looks like alot of really good advice and ideas show here.
I am also thinking about going from a flex fan to electric and
this should help. Good job guys!
I ran a second line directly from the battery using burial-grade 12-2 stranded cable. It runs parallel to the positive battery cable through the trans tunnel and comes up near the wiper door actuator. It allows easy under-hood access to power. I've got the MSD and Spals tapped into it.