When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
This seems to be something that could be very useful. Anyone have one or heard of them and how they work? Anyone have pics of them installed? I cant figure out how they would get installed. http://www.guldstrand.com/toe.htm
Same thing with these, anyoen have any experience with them? Are they suitable for a daily driver? http://www.guldstrand.com/joint.htm
A couple of years ago, I went to Guldstrand's shop and visited with him for about 30 minutes (A real gentleman).
We discussed all of his mods for C3s and which ones made sense for street/autocross use. He stated that the ones you are mentioning were really designed for racing and that it was necessary to lift the body off the frame to get access to install and adjust.
Not worth it, IMHO.
flynhi is correct -
We are installing a set in a '68 Vintage Racer with the body off. If there was a way to install this with the body on ; I would have this on all my C2s & C3s.
So are the toe adjusters something you would set and leave alone until next time you realign the rear, or is it something that constantly needs adjusting? How much clearance from the body is needed, a few inches? If thats the case, it doesnt seem too bad. I could use an excuse to run new gas and brake lines. Anyone have any pics of these installed? Id love to see how they hook up.
Normally rear toe is set by using quality stainless steel washer shims on the front of the rear trailing arms. Once you set them and sinch everything down your toe shouldn't change for many years like 10+ if you don't ever hit anything.
So these adjustables might be fun to try a few different setting and then just leave it alone.
GM chose to build our vettes with lack of skilled drivers in mind. So they set rear toe to something like 1/8th inch toe in. Which gives self aligning to the rear end. So it will self correct to going straight even if you throw the rear end into a slide. It's the same thing with the front tires. Then set in a toe value which will keep the car going striaght with little or no input by the driver.
So a lapping car or for performance use you set the front and rear toe to "ZERO"
So will the toe adjusters and solid bushings eliminate toe change when the car is autocrossing or anything, or is it all just to help adjust toe quicker?
So will the toe adjusters and solid bushings eliminate toe change when the car is autocrossing or anything, or is it all just to help adjust toe quicker?
No, the toe change is because of the arc over which the suspension travels, with 1 hinging point you will always have a toe change, it's like a pendulum. The only way to completely emliminate it is to have a sectioned rear trailing arm like the C4 has.
LostPatrolman - SG4206 said it correctly. It is very time consuming to change out the washer shims.
This is what I said: Normally rear toe is set by using quality stainless steel washer shims on the front of the rear trailing arms. Once you set them and sinch everything down your toe shouldn't change for many years like 10+ if you don't ever hit anything.
So these adjustables might be fun to try a few different setting and then just leave it alone.
This is still debateable. With the new negative camber settings toe OUT is used also. Toe in was originally for positive camber.
As for toe adjustments the 6 link allows quick and easy toe changes for testing. For camber change you adjust one rod, for toe both strut rods equally.
I run 1/16" per side, my car was downright undriveable with "zero toe" when I tried it at the autocross course. I know of several top crewcheifs of IMSA/Trans-Am era Vettes and they all told me to go to 1/8" total and possibly up to 1/4" total for stability under acceleration out of the corners. Here is a quote from one: "the most viscious Vette I ever drove that almost killed me was one that was bordeline on rear toe-out, I would never even consider using anything approaching toe-out on a high horsepower/rear wheel drive car EVER!" (he tested Greg Pickett's 1100+HP twin turbo IMSA Vette during that era.)