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I would say half the clutch jobs on non-Chevrolets I've done were due to a pilot bearing failure prematurely (and yes, all my clutch jobs ALWAYS included a new pilot bearing. Age, heat, miles, dirt... who knows but the tiny needles would give out and ... On at least one application I grew so tired of them that I had one guy make up a good ol' fashioned bushing out of bronze to ensure it would last the life of a clutch.
When they go out they can also be very difficult to remove. The grease trick doesn't work. There is often not enough left some puller's teeth to grab or in some cases, their edges break where the teeth grab/pull.
My experiences w/ other engines taught me to appreciate the original style low-tech plain vanilla bronze bushings on a SBC. Yeah it's not as cool and high tech as a needle bearing but it works, its serviceable, it lasts and it really only has to do anything when the clutch pedal is in.
Let me guess Keisler sells Needle bearings? LOL No realy I agree with the life of a plain old bronze bushing, the job is simple the bronze bushing is simple, If it aint broke..........
I use the bronze bushing too because I heard of the failure of the needle bearings. Be sure that the bushing is not magnetic though as some of the ones on the market under big name labels are.
Gary
Let me guess Keisler sells Needle bearings? LOL No realy I agree with the life of a plain old bronze bushing, the job is simple the bronze bushing is simple, If it aint broke..........
But don't make the mistake I did...not check to make sure the brg will actually slip over the pilot shaft. I got one from Napa a few years ago the was too small, & the trans had to come back out I ended up using a GM Performance roller type bearing. A high quality bearing for $14.00
I would say half the clutch jobs on non-Chevrolets I've done were due to a pilot bearing failure prematurely (and yes, all my clutch jobs ALWAYS included a new pilot bearing. Age, heat, miles, dirt... who knows but the tiny needles would give out and ... On at least one application I grew so tired of them that I had one guy make up a good ol' fashioned bushing out of bronze to ensure it would last the life of a clutch.
When they go out they can also be very difficult to remove. The grease trick doesn't work. There is often not enough left some puller's teeth to grab or in some cases, their edges break where the teeth grab/pull.
My experiences w/ other engines taught me to appreciate the original style low-tech plain vanilla bronze bushings on a SBC. Yeah it's not as cool and high tech as a needle bearing but it works, its serviceable, it lasts and it really only has to do anything when the clutch pedal is in.
I agree 100% with your opinion. One of the smartest Trans-Am road race fabricators I ever knew made the statement that roller pilot bearings are so unreliable that he gave up on the idea of trying to make them work. I realize that GM installs them on the C5 Vettes but, I spent a few hours on my back undoing failed early expirements during the 1980's (the OEM GM "diesel" bearing is FAR better than the Moroso with it's plastic needle bearing cage but, still not reliable in my experiences.) I use a Pioneer brand pilot bushing made of high performance bronze material (different looking that the oil retaining "Oilite" bronze of the production GM bushings of the 60's and 70's.) My scattershield has less than 0.002" of indicator run-out and the rear face is parallel with the block to under 0.003" (after hours on a flywheel grinding machine to straighten it out!) and I am still hesitiant to try a needle bearing pilot assembly. Good Luck! to all that run one without checking your centering/paralellisim of your bellhousing, I think you are running on "borowed time".
Perhaps the reason Keisler requires parallelism within .002 and concentricity with .005 is a direct result of the pilot bearing.
It took me longer to get the bellhousing "straight" on the engine than it did to install the transmission to the engine AND the engine in the car. I'm hoping the time spent will pay dividends and my pilot bearing will last. If not, I'll learn from the mistake and install a bushing.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
I would like to know if anyone knows how to get the old pilot bearing out, I hope I don't hear the 'ol grease gun fairy tale, it took a small sledge to get it in there
I would like to know if anyone knows how to get the old pilot bearing out, I hope I don't hear the 'ol grease gun fairy tale, it took a small sledge to get it in there
Wayne
I got my chewed up roller bearing out by using a concrete drill bit, I was at a friends shop doing the motor and found the bit on his tool bench, it bit into the bearing and then I just rotated and pulled on it till the bearing cam out, same concept would apply to a bronze one.
Take a 5/8" coarse thread bolt, grind down the nose to a taper, cut a "V" notch in the end like a flute of a tap, pound the sucker in and wrench the sucker out! You could also go and borrow someone's $300 Snap-on slide hammer pilot bearing puller and 7 times out of 10 remove the bushing/bearing. The Snap-on tool will at times fail to remove the bushing/bearing if this is the case, go to the hardware store, buy a 5/8 coarse thread bolt, .....