is there a way to get the broken part out of the calliper? i really cant heat it because i painted and coated all 4 callipers,, i was installing a chrome master cylinder last week,, had it bench bled , and somehow got a little air in the sysyem- i got 3 broke loose and got a lot of air out,, but on the last one the bleeder snapped,, luckly is still tight and there is no fluid leaking,, i would rather remove the broken bleeder than get a new caliper -re paint and re coat and go thru all of that if i dont have to..will a e-z out work?,,anyone have any ideas?? thanks----------carl a

 

have you finished the bleed to see if there is air in there????

 

yes ,and the pedal is about wher it was before,,i just hate,,,,after all the work done to car,,, knowing i cant bleed that caliper,, anw would like to replace the bleeder if possible

 

drive and see you can find/ figure out what you are going to do later if you got lucky on the air in there

 

i know the thing isnt leaking,,, i just want to know if there is a way of getting the broken bleeder out

 

I've drilled them out before with a left handed drill bit.

Veerrrrrrrrrry carefully that is. Pull the caliper and put it in a vice first.

 

i never heard of a left handed drill bit before, are you kiddin me??- so e-z outs are useless??all 4 of these bleeders were new 2 yrs ago i really have a hard time believing that thing broke- should have used some anti seize on the bleeders

 

I just did one on my racer BUT I was tightening not loosening when it snapped....be careful, if you drill too far you will destroy the "seat" and get metal shavings into the caliper.......
...redvetracr

 

Nope, it's just a drill bit that's "wound" the opposite way. Normally a drill bit will "bite" with a clockwise turn meaning it'll tend to tighten any fastener that you drill into which is likewise threaded clockwise (right-hand). A left handed drill bit on the other hand bites counterclockwise and hence will tend to loosen a clockwise threaded fastener. And usually what will happen is you'll drill into it some and then it breaks free and starts to turn with the bit (which is what you want)

 

makes sense, thanks,,, off hand do you know what size bit i should get??

 

no idear, ask one of the master fabricators and they could tell you (Norval or Twinnie) Me personally, I'd just yank the caliper and go to Ace comparing the bits one-by-one until I found one big enough to bite the bleeder and small enough not to bung up the caliper threads.

 

NO, here is a sure fire method, take a drill assortment and start with the one that is slightly bigger than the little oil hole, drill down until you feel it hit the bottom, now start going up in drill sizes untill there is little thickness of the bleeder (dont run into the threads), take a chisel or easy out or whatever you have available because it should come out like butter at this point.

 

You can do that too, but you'll run a bigger risk of damaging the seat because you have to bottom out (or come really close) the bit for this to work well. Most of the time with a left hand bit, the fastener will start to turn loose along with the bit once you get a little ways down into it.

 

so do all of these assortments of bits have to be left handed? cuz i got a drill bit index kit(regular drill bits in a index case-red box)

 

It helps to have a set. You can use them the same way that other dude mentioned just with the advantage of constantly loosening what you're drilling into. I'm pretty sure Lowes carries LH drill bit sets.

 

I did not use left handed bits, but like the other guy said, do be carefull on your initial hole so you feel the bit drop sightly as it hits the chamber inside the bleeder, this is the point where your depth should stop.

 

Whatever you use, just make sure you don't break the bit or easy out! If you do, it'll be much more of a pain to fix. I have one caliper that someone used a repair kit on. A previous owner apparently broke off a bleeder and screwed up the threads so they tapped and installed a pipe thread bleeder adapter and a new bleeder that's smaller than the rest. Don't know who made that repair part but if you damage yours, might want to look around for the repair. Good luck with it!

 

I would go with an easyout then you dont have to worry about drilling into the seat. The bleeder screw already has a hole in it. With a drill you run the risk of the drill corkscrewing into the hole and hitting the seat. Easyouts are easier to find than left hand drill bits.

 

thanks guys for all your replys on this - ill try the e-z out - and see what happens-----carl----------

 

well i figured i would try the e-z- out so i wouldnt get metal in the caliper NOT- snapped right off inside so much for that,, looks like time to get new caliper-