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Does a bolt-on removable wheel flare exist?

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Old Nov 9, 2004 | 05:42 PM
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Default Does a bolt-on removable wheel flare exist?

Thinking about using a pair of firestone 10.5" slicks at the track but they protrude about 1-1/2" outside the rear. Since my body is really nice and a low miles car, not into cutting on it to install flares! Any good looking bolt on flares available? Maybe ones that can be painted to match? If I can find some that can be removed easily once the slicks are off with no visible changes to the car, that would also be cool!
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Old Nov 9, 2004 | 05:48 PM
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No, and what would the bolting on do apart from a visual aspect? You won't gain any suspension travel because the stock fender is still there so if you want to run some serious meats you will need to jack up the rear.
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Old Nov 9, 2004 | 05:49 PM
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Removable flares....something I've never heard or thought of ! You can be sure if they exist somebody here will know about it.
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Old Nov 9, 2004 | 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
No, and what would the bolting on do apart from a visual aspect? You won't gain any suspension travel because the stock fender is still there so if you want to run some serious meats you will need to jack up the rear.
I have a really stiff rear suspension and plenty of clearance even with the slicks sitting under there (see my home page for pics). I want to keep rubber, rocks (gravel return road) and crap off my body panels! Would like to remove them when the slicks are off.
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Old Nov 9, 2004 | 06:03 PM
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Well, I don't know of any available, in fact I'm pretty sure there aren't any so the only option would be a DIY project however how would you bolt those things down without drilling holes in the body, I could see how you would bolt them down on the lower side but on top, what would keep them from sitting loose & hammering on the body.
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Old Nov 9, 2004 | 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
Well, I don't know of any available, in fact I'm pretty sure there aren't any so the only option would be a DIY project however how would you bolt those things down without drilling holes in the body, I could see how you would bolt them down on the lower side but on top, what would keep them from sitting loose & hammering on the body.
That's a good question! Some kind of clamp on deal? Maybe I need to do some engineering myself!
Also, I've assumed the purpose of the flares is to keep the wheels from protruding (road legal) and not for clearance issues since my stiff drag set up suspension would never let my wheels hit, but I guess travel is an issue with some people as well.
I see lots of people have installed flares that are permanent, but not into that!
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Old Nov 9, 2004 | 06:30 PM
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"bolt on" would bolt on right through the body!! Actually the GM flares could of been bolted on as they had small impressions molded in for fitting purposes...
...redvetracr
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Old Nov 9, 2004 | 06:42 PM
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different wheel's maybe ?????
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Old Nov 10, 2004 | 09:33 PM
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Go to Home Depot and get a roll of that plastic landscape edging and some sheet metal screws. Then you could "un-roll" your own.
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Old Nov 10, 2004 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by vettery
Go to Home Depot and get a roll of that plastic landscape edging and some sheet metal screws. Then you could "un-roll" your own.
I'll bet that's been done!!!!
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 01:52 AM
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you might just have to buy a couple big sheets of that 3m protective film and cover your rear quarters when you're running the slicks.
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Old Nov 12, 2004 | 05:52 AM
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[QUOTE=exdrag77]Thinking about using a pair of firestone 10.5" slicks at the track but they protrude about 1-1/2" outside the rear. QUOTE]

I'm running Hoosier 28 X 10.0-15's on an 8 " rim with 4 inch back-spacing. The slicks do not extend beound the body lines, but they do sit under the lip of the factory wheel flare. A 10.5 slick (at least in the Hoosiers) only measure about 3-tenths inch wider.

I'm also running a 3.90 gear and the 10" slick is putting the power to the ground with a 1.51 60' time. (6.43 ET @109 MPH in 1/8 mile)

Last edited by DeenHylton; Nov 12, 2004 at 06:05 AM.
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Old Nov 12, 2004 | 02:13 PM
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Unfortunately, the slicks I have are 29.5". When in the wheelwell, they hit the control arm frame reinforcement with a 4" backspace. I think the best solution may be to get some different slicks!
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Old Nov 13, 2004 | 08:34 AM
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Over the past 5 years I've run 26", 28, & 29" slicks of varying widths.
The 28" slick has proved to be the best combination for 500+ HP, auto tranny, and "stock" rear frame members. I currently pushing 650+ HP and the 28 X 10-15 is hooking.

When running a 29" slick I found it rub on the same place you mentioned with only a 9" wide slick!
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Old Nov 13, 2004 | 08:57 AM
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Excuse my ingnorance but I keep hearing theese 1/8 mile times. Where do you run 1/8 mile and how does this compare to 1/4 mile times I'm sure there are a lot of variables. I'm used to 1/4 mile times and have no idea what is quick in the 1/8th.

Sorry not trying to rob this thread just was really curious.
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Old Nov 13, 2004 | 09:56 AM
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someone could make a lot of mone if they could manufacture the flare /-my uncle is a retired fire captian for rolling meadows(illinois) and a model ''a'' guy...he thought up a way of making fender''skirts'' without drilling into the fender- since these were not ard for those cars he advertizes in hemmings and other car mags and has started production of the skirts and is doing well at it
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Old Nov 15, 2004 | 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by ICEMAN59
Excuse my ingnorance but I keep hearing theese 1/8 mile times. Where do you run 1/8 mile and how does this compare to 1/4 mile times I'm sure there are a lot of variables. I'm used to 1/4 mile times and have no idea what is quick in the 1/8th.

Sorry not trying to rob this thread just was really curious.
6.40 in the 1/8th = 10.00 in the 1/4

7.50 in the 1/8th = 12.00 in the 1/4

8.60 in the 1/8th = 14.00 in the 1/4

Deen
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