Engine Problem - Advice Needed


I have a 1970 350 rebuilt to L46 specs. Engine was balanced, port and polished and cycled at the professional engine shop before I picked it up. I watched the guy compression test it to 160PSI on each cylinder before I took delivery. It has been Tuned by Lars and absolutely screams above 1000RPM. Since then I have installed another carb (also rebuilt by Lars).
Heres the problem though. In the last couple of weeks the idle has been rough and it sounds like engine is missing. The symptoms were pretty similar with either carb on the car (both QJETS). I have put it on a SUN engine analyser and it shows that during balance test #8 is virtually dead. If you put a temp gun on the manifold (rams horns) then the temp out of number 8 is about 150 degrees cooler then the other cylinders. It is also showing that the fuel air ratio coming out the right hand side exhaust is 2-5 percent higher.
It gives all symptoms that number 8 is not burning fuel at idle.
I have compression tested #8 and it still reads 160PSI. (as do #4,#6)
We did a rudimentary leakdown test last night and it was the same on #8 as on #6. The valves and rockers seem to move as they should. Did smoke test of manifold and no leaks vsible.
I have swapped carbs, adjusted idle mixture screws.
I have changed the rotor, distributor cap (both new AC DELCO) have new Taylor wires and Autolite plugs (gapped at 0.035"). I even swapped several spark plugs just in car. We have checked the engine in the dark and there are no visible shorts. Strong spark going to number 8 when pulling of plug lead.
Timing is 34 degrees at 2500+ and around 18 degrees at 1000 RPM. (without vac advance connected).
ANY IDEAS?
Last edited by stingry; Nov 19, 2004 at 11:48 AM. Reason: typo


THANKS!
I too would suspect a wire simply because that's the only thing you didn't check.
But seriously I've had wires that arced inside the boot. Sometimes the clip will work its way off the wire or it can get smashed or shifted and not engage the plug correctly. check!


I did a smoke test on the intake last night. No leaks.
Good advice though thanks.
(now i have to amend the top post
)Cheers,
Pete


I too would suspect a wire simply because that's the only thing you didn't check.
But seriously I've had wires that arced inside the boot. Sometimes the clip will work its way off the wire or it can get smashed or shifted and not engage the plug correctly. check!The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Gook Luck in your hunt
Tom
I have a 1970 350 rebuilt to L46 specs. Engine was balanced, port and polished and cycled at the professional engine shop before I picked it up. I watched the guy compression test it to 160PSI on each cylinder before I took delivery. It has been Tuned by Lars and absolutely screams above 1000RPM. Since then I have installed another carb (also rebuilt by Lars).
Is Lars the person that writes the technical papers? How do I find out mor info on Lars carb rebuilds?


Gook Luck in your hunt
Tom
It certainly a hunt! I hope its not a lobe. I guess I will find out tonight.
Pete


I have a 1970 350 rebuilt to L46 specs. Engine was balanced, port and polished and cycled at the professional engine shop before I picked it up. I watched the guy compression test it to 160PSI on each cylinder before I took delivery. It has been Tuned by Lars and absolutely screams above 1000RPM. Since then I have installed another carb (also rebuilt by Lars).
Is Lars the person that writes the technical papers? How do I find out mor info on Lars carb rebuilds?
Email Lars. His email is: v8fastcars@msn.com
Most knowledgeable guy on Vettes/Engines I have ever met. Might have to make him an honorary Aussie just because he appreciates beer so much!


Thanks!
Pete
Last edited by stingry; Nov 19, 2004 at 12:24 PM.


Thanks,
Pete


1. Vaccumn leak through headlight relay then into manifold at intake runner for #8.
2. Mixture going into #8 is VERY LEAN and #8 does not always fire.
3. Mixture in #8 gets pumped out without firing hence manifold is colder and fuel-air on RH exhaust is higher then LH as the fuel is still getting to #8 but just gets pumped out the exhaust.
So even though the cylinder is lean, it is SO LEAN that it actually stops ignition and the cylinder runs cooler.
Is it possible to be TOO LEAN and not combust. Remember I am an electrical engineer so keep the words SMALL!
Last edited by stingry; Nov 19, 2004 at 01:55 PM. Reason: typo

But seriously, it'd be damn hard for that to happen. The spark (assuming there is one) is going to ignite whatever fuel vapors are in the cylinder. The combustion of which requires oxygen (duh) which is pulled from the air also in the cylinder. Too much air, and you're running lean. Meaning all the gas is burned, but there's still air in the cylinder. This in turn causes oxygen in the exhaust and increased cylinder temperatures. On the other hand running rich means you have more fuel in the cylinder than you have oxygen to burn it with. This will typically lead to lower cylinder temperatures and fuel out the exhaust. And of course if you don't even ignite what's in the cylinder, you'll get fuel/air out your pipes.













