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Master Cylinder Question?

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Old Nov 20, 2004 | 08:04 PM
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Hwy St*r's Avatar
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Default Master Cylinder Question?

I recently had new front calipers and master cylinder installed in my '78. Today the pedal was again feeling a little spongy and on hard braking the dash warning light came on. I checked for leaks at the wheels and couldn't find any by the wheels. Checked the MC and the front (closest to the nose) reservoir was a little low. Which reservoir is for the front brakes and which is for the rear? This could help track down my leak.

Thanx.
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Old Nov 21, 2004 | 10:18 AM
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The front reservoir is for the front brakes and vice-versa.
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Old Nov 21, 2004 | 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 78Anni
I recently had new front calipers and master cylinder installed in my '78. Today the pedal was again feeling a little spongy and on hard braking the dash warning light came on. I checked for leaks at the wheels and couldn't find any by the wheels. Checked the MC and the front (closest to the nose) reservoir was a little low. Which reservoir is for the front brakes and which is for the rear? This could help track down my leak.

Thanx.
Couple things to check:

1- was the M/C bench bled,if not remove it and bench bleed it.
2-was the system bled, and what method was used?
Sounds like air in the system. Were the rotors checked for runout?

Gary
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Old Nov 21, 2004 | 12:23 PM
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mine did the same thing, replaced both front calipers and master cylinder (bench bled per instructions) and had light on hard braking ....... went away for a while and now the light stays on yet fluid in m/c stays full ...... my thought is some air worked it's way to the proportioning valve and is stuck there ..... brakes work fine so that is a rainy day project ...... if I have learned nothing else, brakes on a vette require more than the average amount of work .......Robert
G'luck
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Old Nov 21, 2004 | 06:27 PM
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If the rotors are not almost dead flat (that is, no waves in the serface the pads ride on) they will "pump" the caliper pistons. This pumping action injects air into the calipers.

Have the rotors trued up.

Hope this helps.

BigBlockk

Later.....
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Old Nov 22, 2004 | 05:08 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by BigBlockk
If the rotors are not almost dead flat (that is, no waves in the serface the pads ride on) they will "pump" the caliper pistons. This pumping action injects air into the calipers.
And that's why some of us remove the springs...neutralizes the runout!
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Old Nov 22, 2004 | 08:40 AM
  #7  
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You don't have to remove the master to bleed it out. If you still have it mounted in the vette, leave it in (bench bleed it in the car). Buy 12 inch brake line from the parts store and with a tube cutter, cut it in half. Disconnect the brake lines from the master. You want to bend the 2 six inch lines into almost a circle so that when you screw them into the master they will squirt back into each resivor. Fill each master 1/2 way full and then go into the car and SLOWLY depress the brake pedal to bleed the air out of the master. It is always a good idea to cover the fender with a towel incase of any splatter. Brake fluid will turn your paint white.
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