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I have seen coil overs mentioned a few times but don't understand how they could make the suspension better unless it just removes weight. Why would you want coil overs on the front? Wouldn't the single monospring conversion be better like the newer vettes? Why would you want them on the rear? I could see some reasons there; but why have some of you done it? Is it race specific modifications, do they improve ride or handling? This one has me guessing.
They are more adjustable. but if you want to race and you install coil overs it moves you up to the pro division, Same with the mono spring front suspension. I think that the stock suspension is pretty adjustable already and i think the stock set up is the best for starting to race. having all the coil overs and stuff will not help anything if you dont stiffen the frame because the frame will just bend. the only way coil overs help is if you have a triangulated roll cage that is tied into the frame so the frame doesnt twist. But if you want them on your daily driver you can adjust the ride height to the height you like. but on the down side is the 2000 dollar price tag. Van steel has some semi coil overs that are 500 and are fully adjustable like coil over but 1/4 the price. I belive ther is a thread with tips for installing the semi coil overs.
ride height adjustability
weight balancing
less unsprung weight
easy spring removal/swap
true independence unlike transverse leaf
most coil over shocks have large aluminium bodies > cooler running > less chance of oil foaming
compact design
ride height adjustability
weight balancing
less unsprung weight
easy spring removal/swap
true independence unlike transverse leaf
most coil over shocks have large aluminium bodies > cooler running > less chance of oil foaming
compact design
I don't think either suspension system is properly engineered for the long term reliability that GM put into the production system. The worst handling Vette I ever drove had a "dual mount" rear spring and the mono leaf front set-up from one of our vendors so I won't mention names to protect the guilty parties. I run a F-41 set-up and do really well at our local AutoX series (2004 Championship.)
There is only one compelling factor that would make true coilovers better than a conventional setup, and that is to place the lower mounting point closer to the contact patch of the tire. By placing the lower mounting point closer to the contact patch you are able to control the movement of the suspension much better. This is enabled by the compact design of the small spring on the coilover. If you mount a coilover in the same location as the conventional spring you have not made any improvements to the design of the suspension.
But you have made the suspension easier to work on and easier to adjust for corner balance. Unsprung weight reduction is very minimal because only half of the shock/spring unit is considered unsprung. Running lighter a-frames/spindles/hubs/rotors/or wheels would be a much greater savings in unsprung weight. The biggest reduction in unsprung weight is acheived by mounting the shock with the body up. Shock heating is actualy increased with a true c/o because the smaller spring is closer to the shock body and deminishes the air movement around the body. Alumnum body shocks help this situation.
Properly mounted true C/O's can be a benifit to suspension design. Semi-C/O's have no benifit except to make you faster by reducing the weight of your wallet.
Last edited by Pete79L82; Dec 2, 2004 at 08:23 AM.
That is actually what i am doing, I have the lower mount for the coil over where on the normal arm the bump snubber is.
That is the correct way to do it. But I would assume that you have to cut and reinforce the spring pocket in the frame to get clearence. True C/O's are a benifit but definately not a bolt on application to do it right!
I am going to remove the spring pocket and plate up that section with a inwards bent piece to give more clearance, I'm also going to remove the upper arm mounts. I have something completely different for that and will show it when I get done with that
I think it's as good as a bolt on could be, the shocks are kind of short but that's to be expected for a bolt in that has the ability to drop the car to low ride height without the adjusting collar at the end of the shock.
Longer shocks could have been used if those upper shock mount adapters were not used but the frame modified for a through bolt like norval has. The adapters are those 2 things above the shocks, they adapt from rod eye mount to the stock cushion type setup w/ a threaded rod through the hole.
Yes, in fact those arms will be stronger & probably lighter also, I think they are dom tubing and tig welded. The upper arms use the stock ball joint, I would have preferred a later model mini ball joint, maybe it's possible to get those. I like the later ball joint much better than the earlier one.
And just incase you guys are wondering about pricing...
63-82 coil over kit includes, Upper and Lower tube A-Arms, Adjustable coil over shocks $1495.00. Our handeling package includs the above along with a front and rear sway bars with rear adjustable shocks. Rears are not coil overs. $2495.00
So I guess the swaybar pictured isnt included in the 1500 price.
yeah, me to. I will probably buy the setup after some of the other projects are completed, and I am able to stockpile more money. The vette makes sure I am poor.
STOP RIGHT NOW! I wouldn't put the front suspension loads on my upper shock mount and expect the upper shock mount to stay attached to the frame for any extended length of time. The lower control arm might be OK to use in a semi-coilover application but, don't expect this set-up to work on stock GM welds and production line build quality! The upper spring pockets of the production frame are quite strong with a BIG surface area and will take the loads for the long haul. My 2 cents on the subject.
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