C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 02:58 PM
  #1  
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From: Flanders NJ
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I would look for one close enough that you can check it before you buy it. I found mine on the internet but it was an hour away so I was able to check it out and test drive it. Maybe it's just me, but I would never buy any car unless I can check it first hand, could be worth big bucks and headachs if you don't.
Don't worry about having an automatic, most of the C3's are autos, great for cruisin.
Good luck on your search, I spent 5 months looking. It was worth the wait. The late fall and winter time can get you some good deals, the prices tend to be higher in the spring & summer.
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 02:59 PM
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Are you planning on driving this car in the winter? If you do, don't plan on keeping the car very long. No matter what you do, the car will be a rustbucket in a few short years! Carmakers have done a LOT of improvements in terms of rust prevention since the '70s
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 03:02 PM
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Hello,
The rear glass started in 78. The 78 and 79 look alike. From 80 -82 the body style looks alike with the integrated rear spoiler and front air dam.

68 - 72 has chrome bumpers on both ends.
73 has one rear chrome bumper, one molded front bumper.

74 - 77 have molded bumpers on both ends.

From reading your posts, it won't matter what color the exterior is because you are repainting it anyway with a unique paint scheme. I think if that is the case, then cars without bumpers would be better because of the creativity that can be done on the bumpers without the chrome detracting from the artwork.

But then.....the chrome bumpers would complement the chrome blower that I think you will have coming out of the hood.

For $7500 -$8500 you should be able to find a nice driver that will allow you to drive it home. So the 100 mile radius could be expanded a little to widen your choices.

kdf 1973 454
kdf 1986 L98
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 03:04 PM
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However good a deal you find, just remember that you can get one for cheaper. Don't stop looking, it will take a while, but keep on looking. ALWAYS make sure that you can see the car before you buy it.
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 03:10 PM
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I think an 80 or an 81 will be right in your wheelhouse. 80 has no computer, 81 has a computer-controlled carb. 82 as well if you don't mind the Xfire injection.

You should be able to find lots of cars from those years in drivable condition for that money. Most of the cars built in those years were automatics (the L82 option in 80 came - like my car - ONLY with automatic).
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 03:14 PM
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In most (if not all states) there's no smog testing on '75 and older models => very nice !!!

Other than that there's no huge difference between '74 - '77 , HP is low unless the engine is modified or has been replaced....

'73 and older models are a little expensive, chrome bumper Vettes are more desireable for most people....

If your state does emission tests I'd try to get a '74 - '75 ... if you find one for around $6000 you'll likely spend another $4000 in parts....

A 'fixer upper' is not the best daily driver, I hope you know what you're getting into...
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 03:26 PM
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From: Castle Hills Texas
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[QUOTE=JewliaGoulia]Now pre-1978 is the body style without the rear glass hatch right?QUOTE]


If you mean a rear glass that opens like a hatch back, then the '82 collector edition was the only one that did that. If you are talking the fastback glass, that started in '78.
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 03:31 PM
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The 78+ has more boot space which im finding handy for sound imaging "accoustics" with the stereo setup Space for the subs rear speakers in an enclosure, with room to spare for the T-tops

Much better rear visibility too more practical if it will be a DD, If you want a drag car then the 80+ will be good for you as they started to lose major weight
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 04:17 PM
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What ever you do, Do not buy one from Ebay- unless you inspect first. Good luck,,, its always fun shopping if you find one you like. I have had 4 vetts. When you find one you like, it is usually an emotional not a practical buy. ( love at first site )
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by JewliaGoulia
. . . I have fallen in love. . . with this car. . . .
http://www.corvettetrader.com/ads/19...chigan4125.htm.....Whata ya think. . .
If it's all there, it looks like quite the bargain.
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 05:33 PM
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Paint shouldn't be a problem for you! Take that ferry and check it out...
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 05:41 PM
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Jewl,
I see that you are in Milwaukee.
I am in Minnesota and know all about salt and corrosion.
My brother however, lives in Kentucky. He bought a $1000 truck that has a perfect frame, it still has paint on it! Lots too , not just a little bit

If I were to buy another Vette. I would buy one from down south. Or one that has not been winter driven and looks as good as one from down south!!!

I hate to change my mind on the Michigan Vette, but the frame worries me.

Did you ever get pictures??

Keith
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 06:31 PM
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From: WAY DEEP INSIDE AMERICO,YES YOU LIVE HERE TO!! TX
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Have you checked on E-BAY
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 06:52 PM
  #14  
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I'm in Eau Claire, I can keep an eye out if you want. I always kinda look. They seem to be overpriced here though. I think there is an '81 for a good price, 60-some thousand miles and in the upper 7k price. But it has a computer controlled carb, but really, that won't take long to rip out.
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 12:22 AM
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I would just keep looking in the paper and be patient. Keep your ears open for deals also. I bought my 69 a year ago for 5500. 4 speed, 350/350, basically all original, 90k miles, no body damage, and it was a florida car so no frame rust. It was a driver, but needed most of the normal stuff such as control arm bushings, rebuilt brakes. I was never in the market for a vette when I bought mine, but saw it in the paper and decided to go take a look. Knew I had to have it after that.
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 12:27 AM
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I wonder where this rear came from
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