New Steel Leaf Spring
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,763
Likes: 0
From: Fayetteville NC
New Steel Leaf Spring
Just replaced my old steel leaf spring ('75 coupe) with a new one over Thanksgiving. My rear wheels are now straight but I'm about 4 inches too high in the back. Am having the longer bolts installed tomorrow to bring it down. Some of you will probably be interested in finding out if it works and if lowering the spring will make the wheels bow out at the bottom and in at the top. That's what I'm most worried about. WHen I bought the car it was this way. Will let you know how it turns out. Am keeping my fingers crossed. I'm almost there.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
You probably bought the same spring that I have.... one of the previous owners replaced my rear spring and the car was sitting at 30.5"..... 
I rebuilt the entire suspension but re-used the steel spring, after I was done rebuilding everything it was still at 30.5" (what a surprise)
I just installed the longer bolts last week, that lowered the rear 1.5" , I am now at 29" with a 275-60 tire. the end of the spring is now closer to the tire but there's still 1" clearance...
The camber can easily be adjusted, did you already replace the strut rods ? If not then buy the adjustable rods from VBP or MidAmerica or others... they're only $90.
I rebuilt the entire suspension but re-used the steel spring, after I was done rebuilding everything it was still at 30.5" (what a surprise)
I just installed the longer bolts last week, that lowered the rear 1.5" , I am now at 29" with a 275-60 tire. the end of the spring is now closer to the tire but there's still 1" clearance...
The camber can easily be adjusted, did you already replace the strut rods ? If not then buy the adjustable rods from VBP or MidAmerica or others... they're only $90.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,763
Likes: 0
From: Fayetteville NC
Originally Posted by RedBad1979
You probably bought the same spring that I have.... one of the previous owners replaced my rear spring and the car was sitting at 30.5".....
I rebuilt the entire suspension but re-used the steel spring, after I was done rebuilding everything it was still at 30.5" (what a surprise)
I just installed the longer bolts last week, that lowered the rear 1.5" , I am now at 29" with a 275-60 tire. the end of the spring is now closer to the tire but there's still 1" clearance...
The camber can easily be adjusted, did you already replace the strut rods ? If not then buy the adjustable rods from VBP or MidAmerica or others... they're only $90.
I rebuilt the entire suspension but re-used the steel spring, after I was done rebuilding everything it was still at 30.5" (what a surprise)
I just installed the longer bolts last week, that lowered the rear 1.5" , I am now at 29" with a 275-60 tire. the end of the spring is now closer to the tire but there's still 1" clearance...
The camber can easily be adjusted, did you already replace the strut rods ? If not then buy the adjustable rods from VBP or MidAmerica or others... they're only $90.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
If your alignment was fine before you changed the spring then only your camber is off and not the toe in/out. The camber is easy to adjust with a water level, you can do that yourself.
If you think that you're done with your suspension work, then I'd get a 4-wheel alignment done.
Oh, one more thing: the adjustable strut rods have left/right threads, you just turn the rod to adjust the camber negative/positive. You have to tighten the jam nuts pretty good and should use locktite on the threads for the jam nuts. These sometime come loose and that is dagerous.
If you think that you're done with your suspension work, then I'd get a 4-wheel alignment done.
Oh, one more thing: the adjustable strut rods have left/right threads, you just turn the rod to adjust the camber negative/positive. You have to tighten the jam nuts pretty good and should use locktite on the threads for the jam nuts. These sometime come loose and that is dagerous.
Last edited by MYBAD79; Dec 3, 2004 at 07:48 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,763
Likes: 0
From: Fayetteville NC
Originally Posted by RedBad1979
If your alignment was fine before you changed the spring then only your camber is off and not the toe in/out. The camber is easy to adjust with a water level, you can do that yourself.
If you think that you're done with your suspension work, then I'd get a 4-wheel alignment done.
Oh, one more thing: the adjustable strut rods have left/right threads, you just turn the rod to adjust the camber negative/positive. You have to tighten the jam nuts pretty good and should use locktite on the threads for the jam nuts. These sometime come loose and that is dagerous.
If you think that you're done with your suspension work, then I'd get a 4-wheel alignment done.
Oh, one more thing: the adjustable strut rods have left/right threads, you just turn the rod to adjust the camber negative/positive. You have to tighten the jam nuts pretty good and should use locktite on the threads for the jam nuts. These sometime come loose and that is dagerous.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
I suspect that your half shafts are in a different angle now that the rear is so high.... that puts additional load on the U-joints....
You may just want to get a refund for the spring.... clean it up and send it back.... where did you buy it ? I heard the Muskegon (probably spelled wrong) is the worst you can buy...that's probably what we both have, mine is harsh, too...
You may just want to get a refund for the spring.... clean it up and send it back.... where did you buy it ? I heard the Muskegon (probably spelled wrong) is the worst you can buy...that's probably what we both have, mine is harsh, too...
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,166
Likes: 0
From: Tulsa Ok
I found the most important thiing with the adj struts is antisieze, Mine became unadjustible after one year until I soaked them in CLR to break the rust and even then I had to use a cheater bar, Soak the threads with antisieze then apply locktite on the ends.
