Does the resistor wire on a '69 terminate at junction block on the firewall? I'm replacing the dual points with an HEI, so need to replace it. Tnx!

 

On my 71 it terminated at the junction block, pulled the junction block apart and ran a new wire. Learned the hard way that the HEI does not work well with the resistor wire.

 

I recently replaced my distributor with a DUI HEI system.....since the HEI needs full voltage to work, you do NOT use (or need) the resistor wire. Tie or tape it up & run a new 12v lead from the fuse box ignition. (I also have a '69)

 

BTW i checked and the ballest resistors were dropped and not used by '68 in the Zip and Ecklers cataloges. So i'm convinced that resistor wire is used for ur '69.
The normal resistance of a short 2' length of copper small gauge wire should be less than 1 ohm. U can buy a $15 multimeter at home Depot to measure this resistance and just read the instructions if needed. But resistor wire will have a couple of ohms per foot to reduce coil votage down to about 9Vdc for normal operation. My best guess for coil current is 1 amp, then 12V battery voltage minus 9V normal operating means the wire drops 3V. So 3V divided by 1 amp = 3 ohms resistance - but resistance would be more/higher for lower current/amperage draw.
Anyways the wire needs to be bypassed at least all the way to the firewall or replaced. And i doubt the resistor wire goes anyfurther than the firewall connector but u could check this again with a resistance reading from that multimeter. U would need to find the correct ignition wire on the wire diagram and just pull the steering column connector to measure the wire to the fuse junction block.
U could always just run a bypass wire from the fuse block throught the firewall to the coil if needed. Just need a terminal powered by the ignition switch in the on position.
Yea i switched to an HEI on my '70 pontiac and it was a simple 1 wire hook-up. Best improvement i ever made for the ignition on that car. Next trick was a spring kit and test drives up hill in 4th gear for tuning. Up the hill and back again to behind the strip mall to change springs. Chriped the gears each run and never a ticket. Ahhh the memories of a mtr head.
Hope this will help ya. cardo0

 

Tnx guys... I was hoping the wire terminated at the block to make life a little easier, so it looks like it won't be a tough job, 'cept maybe getting to the junction with a side pipe car. What are u guys doing with the other wire (to the starter solenoid)? It's got the battery positive, a purple wire to one post, and the opposite post has (had) the +12v wire from the coil.

 

I'm running a MSD now and don't need that wire/terminal - terminal "M" or "P" i think. And i looked at the starter solenoid diagram to find that terminal could short out the solenoid if touches the batt + cable. So i cut off the terminal lug and covered with silicone insulation. And to show off my JC Whitney heat shield (slightly modified) u can see it at http://www.cardomain.com/id/cardo0 (page 2) - in my personal profile. On my '74 this was a yellow wire that i just cut off the connector and covered the end with electrical tape then taped back out'a the way. Now the "S" terminal on the block side of solenoid is the 1 that makes the starter turn from the ignition sw and its a purple wire on'a '74.
Good luck. cardo0

 

Got the junction block off and pulled the pin for the resistor wire. Now I need to know where I can find another one of those pins. They are machine crimped, so there's no reusing it unless I can mangle it open to get the wire out. I've been doing some searches, but only came up with Lectric Limited. They have a note on their site that says they don't sell repair parts - and not to even ask! They gotta be getting the parts somewhere to build harnesses...

Cardo. Tnx for the link... so what's that fandangled thing with the level in the pic?

 

I hoped u looked at page 2 and saw the solenoid that i removed the terminal off. I think ur talk'n 'bout page 4 and thats to show why my mini-starter would not fit. The level shows the reference where the 2 starters meet the engine block and the lower ruler shows an angle for the centerline of the Bendix gears of both starters. That mini is higher and closer to the flywheel than my stock starter and wouldn't work.
So unless ur bying a GM mini, click on page 2.

I think a lot of people just run a new wire through the firewall because of that terminal problem. And u want a good connection that doesn't drop any voltage there so remember to check resistance with that meter. Theres a corvette wiring supply up in LA that advetizes in Covette Fever mag. I bought my lighting harness through them and they sold me some compartment light sockets too. Sorry can't recall them but i think ur looking in the right tyupe of places for that connector.
Happy hunting. cardo0

 

Yeah, I saw page 2, but browsed the other pics 'cause...well, they were there... Tnx for the tip on the supplier. I'll check with Corvette Fever online and see if their ad is listed. I'd rather find a pin 'cause it's more propheshunal. Tnx.

 

Make sure that you size the replacement wire correctly. The HEI can draw around 12 amps, which is far too much to provide a full 13.8 volts to the HEI using 14 or 16 Ga wire. Use a minimum of 12 Ga, but for safety a 10 Ga wire, direct from a Ign Switched terminal is preferred. On GM the wire is color coded red.