I think the t/a is doing all the twisting. The strut rod is just along for the ride.

 

No, the struts twist also, think about it. Look at the susp. from the side and notice the hub. It makes the same motion as the end of the trailing arm, which is an arch and not a straight up/down motion. Therefore the bushings get twisted because the hub "rotates" slightly during this motion and it's horizontal position also changes because of the arch, both of these will cause the bushing to deflect.

 

I dunno, I just torked the hell out of mine and they been fine, but did come loose some in the ten years they been on there, I also used locktite red, what I had....

GENE

 

Let's send all these guys some cotter pins

 

Hummmmmm No Comment from VBP...Tony we know your reading this thread!!

 

Glad I read this post.

 

So let's get this clear, this issue concerns those smart struts that have poly ends or whatever, in any case no rod ends. Rod ends wouldn't display this problem.

 

I noticed one side had started to unscrew (sleeve not nut) when the car was at the body shop. Had the shop torque it back down and have had no problems since.

 

Now I wish I had gone with the solid rod ends. I was told they were just for racing. My poly rods have not come loose yet, but I haven't done many miles since the rear end rebuild. I think it is only a matter of time. I was already a little worried about this problem from previous threads, so I marked everything with nail polish and check it regularly.
They nuts are just torqued from the last alignment no locktite. So far so good.
Maybe VPB will give previous customers concerned with this issue a really good deal on solid rod ends. Do the mounts need to be changed for heim joints?????
Does anyone know what they cost??
cheers
Mick

 

 

Another thought... It should be sufficient to replace only one end of the strut rod to a heim joint. Probably the inner, which will allow the rod to rotate.
Cheers
Mick

 

Good idea on marking the sleeves/nuts. That way, it just takes a quick look to see if anything moved.

 

I would think a good quality heim joint on one end would solve the problem although the other end would still see some twisting motion but only in the forward/rear plane as the TA moves up and down along its arc but this should not rotated the strut at all.

 

I have a meeting with our owner to discuss this issue today.

Tony
VBP

 

Dumb question but I'm gonna throw it out anyway..............would it make a difference which end was inner or outer? i.e. left hand threads at the wheel and right hand at the rear end housing.

Steve

 

Thanks, Tony! Let us know.

 

From Angelo Gonzalez: (owner)

The strut rod jam nuts were creating a problem upon installation in the early 80's. This problem was solved with input from various installation shops around the country and further reasearch by VBP, Inc.

The left driver's side thread on the strut rod should be installed toward the driver's wheel (tire). The right passenger side thread on the strut rod should be installed toward the passenger wheel (tire).

This situation was corrected at assembly of the smart strut rod unit. The bracket has an offset hole and can only be installed one way - Driver's side (left) toward driver's wheel and passenger side (right) toward passanger wheel.

Angelo said that he would be happy to field any further questions anybody has about this issue. He can be reached at 1-800-237-9991 X103

Vette Brakes & Products.

 

Rod ends are labelled for racing only because they can not be lubricated (well the strong/good ones can't never use the rod ends with zerk fittings they are bad news)

BUT! There is a solution for wear and lubrication, I lubed all mine and I have rubber boots that isolate the rod end ball, just like on a normal ball joint. You can pack the thing with grease and that increases the rod end life and you won't have to service them as often.

Speedwaymotors sells the seals, they are made by seals-it (http://www.sealsit.com)

Here's the seals:

 

VBP Smart Rods Installation Geometry 101

I installed my Smart Rods two week ends ago.

At that time, the trailing arm was only attached to the car by the trailing arm pivot bolt (at one end) and the attachment to the halfshaft and the axle spindle flange. The transverse spring was not attached.

To attach my Smart Rod to pin that runs through the spindle (axle hub )flange fork I jacked the trailing arm up into a horizontal position. I attached the Smart Rod. At that time, the axes of both ends of the Smart Rod were horizontal. The attachment to the trailing arm, the pin that also is the shock mount, was horizontal. Now, this is why there is a problem with the Smart Rod shaft getting loose. If you attach the Smart Rod in the horizontal position, torque in in, and then let the horizontal trailing arm drop say 15 degrees, there will be a 15 degree clockwise twist on the Smart Rod end. Similarly if the trailing arm moves up 15 degrees, there will be a 15 degrees counterclockwise rotation on the Smart Rod. If the elastomer in the ends of the Smart Rod (Rubber or Urethan) will flex to accomodate the twist, there will not be a problem other than stress to the elastomer. If the elastomer doesn't twist, no matter about that 100 foot pound of torque for the Smart Rod lock nuts, your 900 pounds of car body, or greater shock thrust, weight on the spindle flange will twist the Smart Rod bushing either counter or clockwise. I think why this is it tends to get loose.

To to me that a good solution is to use a heim joint where the Smart Rod attaches to the spindle flange fork. For myself, I'm going to look at the heim joint alternative.