breaking loose brake lines
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio Texas
breaking loose brake lines
any tricks for loosening tight brake line fittings. i've used penetrating oil, worked on 'em with flare nut wrenches, etc. but fittings on metal brake lines don't want to come loose from calipers and hoses. any suggestions?
Instructor
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
From: Lima Ohio
Originally Posted by greyghost79
any tricks for loosening tight brake line fittings. i've used penetrating oil, worked on 'em with flare nut wrenches, etc. but fittings on metal brake lines don't want to come loose from calipers and hoses. any suggestions?
Around here they will suggest vice-grips. Much as that seems horribly wrong, it works. But it aint' pretty.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,186
Likes: 45
From: detroit area
i'm having that same problem..... when i took apart the front to do my rebuild, i just cut the lines knowing that i will have to get new ones and deal with it later...well, it's later...... now i have to deal with it....vise grips is what i'm gonna use as my weapon of choice.......
b
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 2,675
Likes: 13
From: Sudbury MA
Breaking Loose Brake Lines
I have had this prbolem in past and was able to loosen the lines without any damage by applying small amount of heat with a Mapp gas (propane is too slow); don't overdo it.
Just heat the fitting where the threads enter the caliper and then squirt soem WD40 or PBBlaster on it; it will smoke because of the heat, then let it cool a little and use tubing wrenches cautiously.
The heat and cooling causes the corrosion or rust to break free and as soon as you get the line to turn a little, soak it with more penetrant and gently work the wrench back and forth (llosen & tighten) to clean the threads until you can loosen it completely. Don't use too much force as you will twist the line, if you go slow, it will come off and can be reused if you want to. I used to break things all the time until an old timer showed me that heat , penetrating oil and patience will work every time. I use the same technique on corroded bleeder screws. Works every time.
Kurt
Just heat the fitting where the threads enter the caliper and then squirt soem WD40 or PBBlaster on it; it will smoke because of the heat, then let it cool a little and use tubing wrenches cautiously.
The heat and cooling causes the corrosion or rust to break free and as soon as you get the line to turn a little, soak it with more penetrant and gently work the wrench back and forth (llosen & tighten) to clean the threads until you can loosen it completely. Don't use too much force as you will twist the line, if you go slow, it will come off and can be reused if you want to. I used to break things all the time until an old timer showed me that heat , penetrating oil and patience will work every time. I use the same technique on corroded bleeder screws. Works every time.
Kurt
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
Old lines are easily broken loose with vice grips.
You need the type with straight - not curved - jaws.
If you get them on good, there is little to no damage to the fitting.
Just break them losse - then an open-end wrench will finish the job.
You need the type with straight - not curved - jaws.
If you get them on good, there is little to no damage to the fitting.
Just break them losse - then an open-end wrench will finish the job.
Senior Member since 1492
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 87,922
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From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
I had to wait until my engine was out to get some leverage at the distribution block. They were still very stuck on there. After using flare nut's I finally got them loose with vise grips. Didn't care about the fittings since I was replacing them all anyway.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,951
Likes: 1
From: Shore NJ
Just went through this, tried soaking in PB blaster for a week, fiinally cut the lines and broke out the old vise grips like everyone else, replaced everything with stainless steel kit from VB, and dont forget to apply a light coat of anti sieze on those threads going back in...
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Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 4,748
Likes: 2,493
From: Buckeye, AZ
St. Jude Donor '12-'13
The best suggestion I had came from a seasoned mechanic and it worked! disconnect hose from caliper. Heat fitting until the hose "blows" loose. This will make a load bang. After that the fitting will lossen fairly easy. This worked jsut as he told. Prior to that it appeared I would strip the fittings. Always us a flare wrench as well.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 43
From: Eastern US XX
Originally Posted by BBShark
I went the vise grip route also but thats because I was replacing. I think there is a special wrench for brake lines. Maybe a Snap On thing.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 11,874
Likes: 263
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by gliot1
disconnect hose from caliper. Heat fitting until the hose "blows" loose. This will make a load bang.
??? not following you? whats making the noise? thks bob
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
Originally Posted by pws69
Flare Nut Wrenches - Craftsman - I have a set of SAE and Metric versions - gotta have em for fuels and brakes. I only use vice grips if they are already bubbafied.
I always try flare nut wrenches first. After awhile you start to get a feel for just how much torque you can put on something with an open end or flare nut wrench before you round it off. Usually I can get them to pop loose with a flare nut. If not, then I break out the old vice grips. Grab the nut with the flat tips of the vice grips so that you're flat on flat, and marring of the nut will be minimal.
