Where are the option codes on a '69 Vert?
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From: Baton Rouge LA
Where are the option codes on a '69 Vert? (Updated w/ Pics)
I have this car that I'm thinking of buying (posted that yesterday as well) but there are no option codes on the door. Is there anywhere else to find them? It a '69 Vert 4-speed that the console shows to be a 300hp 350. The option codes in the black bood shows to be a 350hp 350. Also the crossmember that the exhaust runs through is a bolt on unit which a buddy told me only came in the auto cars and that the 4-speed cars were welded in. I have the vin but that's it.
The car is in nice looking shape but underneath it's a mess. The lower and side radiator mounts are rusted through. The lower looks like a bolt on unit but I'm not sure about the sides. The battery box and storage boxes are both cracked up and it looks like the half shaft may have come loose and done that. The frame looks to have some rot as well. I pulled the kick panel off of the drivers side and the body mount is actually loose. The bird cage seems to be fine with little rust. I have some detailed pics if anyone would be interested in looking at them.
It's supposed to be a numbers matching car but I haven't got that far yet. The seller is wanting $17,000 for it but that seem high to me with the rust conditions. What do you guys think it's worth if the numbers match?
Thanks for any help....
Here is a link to the pics;
http://www.thunderracing.com/users/paulf/c3/
The car is in nice looking shape but underneath it's a mess. The lower and side radiator mounts are rusted through. The lower looks like a bolt on unit but I'm not sure about the sides. The battery box and storage boxes are both cracked up and it looks like the half shaft may have come loose and done that. The frame looks to have some rot as well. I pulled the kick panel off of the drivers side and the body mount is actually loose. The bird cage seems to be fine with little rust. I have some detailed pics if anyone would be interested in looking at them.
It's supposed to be a numbers matching car but I haven't got that far yet. The seller is wanting $17,000 for it but that seem high to me with the rust conditions. What do you guys think it's worth if the numbers match?
Thanks for any help....
Here is a link to the pics;
http://www.thunderracing.com/users/paulf/c3/
Last edited by Paul @ Thunder; Dec 22, 2004 at 10:20 AM.
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From: The reason time exists is so everything doesn't happen at once
I figured from you question that you owned a newer Corvette.
The fact is there are no option codes (as a C4 or C5 owner would recognize) on the 69. The option code sticker found under the center console or rear compartment door on newer vettes is called the tank sticker in "C3 speak" and is located on top of the gas tank. It is actually a copy of the buiild sheet from the assembly line. If it still exists it is difficult to get to (drop the tank or lift the body - your choice) and because it has been semi-exposed to the elements for the past 35+years may not be legible.
I don't know what you mean about the option codes in the black book. The base engine was a 300hp 350ci aka L48, the optional small block was 350hp/ 350 ci L46.
Considering the frame rust you mention I would be very hesitant about the car. And I would definitely not pay his asking price.
The fact is there are no option codes (as a C4 or C5 owner would recognize) on the 69. The option code sticker found under the center console or rear compartment door on newer vettes is called the tank sticker in "C3 speak" and is located on top of the gas tank. It is actually a copy of the buiild sheet from the assembly line. If it still exists it is difficult to get to (drop the tank or lift the body - your choice) and because it has been semi-exposed to the elements for the past 35+years may not be legible.
I don't know what you mean about the option codes in the black book. The base engine was a 300hp 350ci aka L48, the optional small block was 350hp/ 350 ci L46.
Considering the frame rust you mention I would be very hesitant about the car. And I would definitely not pay his asking price.
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From: Baton Rouge LA
Yes I'm a C5 owner so please don't shoot me. I did see the L46 350/350 option listed in my book but it never mentioned L48 as being the base motor. I really want to find out what tranny is supposed to be in the car.
What would you consider a fair price for a car in this condition, maybe $14,000 or so? Thanks for the help.
Paul
What would you consider a fair price for a car in this condition, maybe $14,000 or so? Thanks for the help.
Paul
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From: Beverly Hills/Pine Ridge Florida
ORIGINAL automatic cars use the bolt in crossmember, while ORIGINAL manual trans cars use a welded crossmember. If yours is bolted, it was an original automatic car, OR the frame was changed.
Sounds like this car has many "issues" underneath. Before you get burnt, get somebody who knows these cars to look at it, regardless of the asking price.
There are no option codes listed other than those on the tank sticker. You can check the engine casting number, date, and stamp pad information. Post it here. Chuck
Sounds like this car has many "issues" underneath. Before you get burnt, get somebody who knows these cars to look at it, regardless of the asking price.
There are no option codes listed other than those on the tank sticker. You can check the engine casting number, date, and stamp pad information. Post it here. Chuck
Le Mans Master
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From: I can walk to MA
High price for so many issues (and you haven't even found them ALL yet).
If you want to restore it and keep it, I say it might be OK with a price reduction.
If you ever want to recoupe the $$ spent, then forget it.
You'd have to do a premo restoration and wait many years for it to appreciate.
Why not upload the pictures to the forum server ... then we can
all start to pick it apart. see this: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=891758
Oh yeah - there should be a VIN # derivative stamped in the side
of the tranny - driver's side I think.
If you want to restore it and keep it, I say it might be OK with a price reduction.
If you ever want to recoupe the $$ spent, then forget it.
You'd have to do a premo restoration and wait many years for it to appreciate.
Why not upload the pictures to the forum server ... then we can
all start to pick it apart. see this: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=891758
Oh yeah - there should be a VIN # derivative stamped in the side
of the tranny - driver's side I think.
Last edited by NHvette; Dec 21, 2004 at 07:15 PM.
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Oh yeah - there should be a VIN # derivative stamped in the side
Here is a picture of the vin stamp on the side of my original tranny for my vette. The last 5 digits should match the last 5 digits in you r vin.
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From: The reason time exists is so everything doesn't happen at once
Originally Posted by Paul @ Thunder
Yes I'm a C5 owner so please don't shoot me.
Back in the good old days no one apparently thought anybody would be concerned with the original options on a car if it was around for 30 or 40 years, so the option list was not goven much thought. Also, GM in its infinite wisdom destroyed all records of the original build sheets which would have enabled someone to track his or her car using the VIN, much as can be done with the newer cars through the NCM.
Again, as for the price, I'd be very hesitant.
"The lower and side radiator mounts are rusted through."
The radiator mounts are an integral part of the frame. If they are rusted the whole front clip will sag. The gap between the front edge of the door and the rear edge of the front fender is probably wider at the top than at the bottem.
If this car were a true rarity, say an L89 or L88, it would be worth putting tons of cash into it. But for a small block no. Keep looking, for 17K you should be able to pick up something with a lot fewer issues.
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From: Baton Rouge LA
Thanks again for all of your help guys. I checked the numbers on the engine and tranny last night and they do match. The car was a 4-speed car so someone has oviously changed the crossmember to a bolt-on one. Let me put the pics on my website and I'll post some links so you guys can look at them.
The car is the exact color and year that I want so I'm willing to take what I can get as long as it's not a total heap. Do you think 12K would be a fair price in this condition? Pics coming soon.
Paul
The car is the exact color and year that I want so I'm willing to take what I can get as long as it's not a total heap. Do you think 12K would be a fair price in this condition? Pics coming soon.
Paul
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From: Baton Rouge LA
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From: The Motor City
It's not a "basketcase" but there are a few thing that would make me look elsewhere if I was looking for a "driver" instead of a "fixer-upper". Those door gaps (to me) indicate that there are some big issues underneath. The rust, while not excessive, is going to have to be fixed. Even if I had the resources to fix the rust and fiberglass problems, I wouldn't go over $10k.
Make sure you don't fall in love with the car and try to keep a rational head. You can very easily fall out of love once you get it home and really dig into it.
My 2 cents.
-Matt
Make sure you don't fall in love with the car and try to keep a rational head. You can very easily fall out of love once you get it home and really dig into it.
My 2 cents.
-Matt
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Upstate South Carolina
Originally Posted by Scooter70
It's not a "basketcase" but there are a few thing that would make me look elsewhere if I was looking for a "driver" instead of a "fixer-upper". Those door gaps (to me) indicate that there are some big issues underneath. The rust, while not excessive, is going to have to be fixed. Even if I had the resources to fix the rust and fiberglass problems, I wouldn't go over $10k.
Make sure you don't fall in love with the car and try to keep a rational head. You can very easily fall out of love once you get it home and really dig into it.
My 2 cents.
-Matt
Make sure you don't fall in love with the car and try to keep a rational head. You can very easily fall out of love once you get it home and really dig into it.
My 2 cents.
-Matt
Keep in mind that over 38,000 69s were made. There are more out there. I love yellow though.
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After looking at all the pics you had links to, I realistically would just "pass" on this car. To me, it has serious issues that are just going to cost you some fairly big $$$. The rear compartment damage is very difficult to repair "properly". The core support area looks very bad. The front lip of the hood appears to be higher than the nose shroud ALREADY indicating possibly a drooping nose/front end. There could be more "non-appearing" damage under the paint due to this. The broken fiberglass near the rear bumper will only get worse if it's not repaired. If the coresupport area is THIS BAD, what does the frame kick-up in the trailing arm pivot bolt area look like??? What about the windshield pillars where the VIN tag is??? As others have said, it's easy to fall in love and ignore these issues now, but the longer you would own this car, these "issues" will not go away and come back to haunt you. I, myself, could'nt buy this car, unless as others have stated was a true 435hp or L-88 car.
Last edited by Paul Borowski; Dec 22, 2004 at 12:18 PM.
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From: The Motor City
Glad we could help. I hate to see people get in over their heads or spend too much on a project car.
I have some pics of the frame rot that I found when I pulled the body off of my car. If I get a chance, I'll scan and post them. We had to cut out entire sections and patch them in with new metal. I had the resources (read: friends) who were able to fix everything. You'd never know that it was patched by looking under my car today.
I have some pics of the frame rot that I found when I pulled the body off of my car. If I get a chance, I'll scan and post them. We had to cut out entire sections and patch them in with new metal. I had the resources (read: friends) who were able to fix everything. You'd never know that it was patched by looking under my car today.
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From: Beverly Hills/Pine Ridge Florida
I looked at the pix too. That car is rough as a cob. I would also be interested in seeing the pictures of the frame kick-up's and T Arm "hole" areas.
Doors don't fit....hood doesn't fit. Lights "sunk" into the surround panel......lots of "issues"
with this car. That car looks like its' hit everything but the lottery.
Who is selling this car? Is it a private owner? A dealer? Chuck
Doors don't fit....hood doesn't fit. Lights "sunk" into the surround panel......lots of "issues"
with this car. That car looks like its' hit everything but the lottery. Who is selling this car? Is it a private owner? A dealer? Chuck
