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Thank you, thank you, thank you and did I say thank you. This will be my next project on my 77 as my body mount look like your old ones. This info will help alot, are there any easy tricks to this mount rebuild? Have you driven the car after the mount replacement? Is there a noticable difference? Thank you again.
are there any easy tricks to this mount rebuild? Have you driven the car after the mount replacement? Is there a noticable difference? Thank you again.
Easy tricks: cut the fiberglass at the #3 mount, otherwise you have to lift the body off the frame............spray all eight bolts as good as possible with rust penetrating oil/lubricant and let it soak for a day...
I drove the car: feels like a new car now....
Originally Posted by markdtn
Are you jacking the car by the floor in the first few photos? Don't they crack, even spreading the load?
No, the Vette is sitting on four jackstands - on the photos I'm jacking the body off the frame. The wood is there for better load distribution, with the jack alone you'll likely crack/puncture the floorboard...If you do one side at a time half the body's weight is still supported on the opposite side. I was able to turn the handle without an extension so there was not a lot of weight on the jack.
Awesome pictures. Why would you have to lift the car off the frame on the #3 though? I've not replaced my mounts, I'm just wondering what the purpose is. Will an air rachet fit in the hole? Also, did you tighten each one down as your replaced it or did you waiting until they were all installed?
Originally Posted by RedBad1979
Easy tricks: cut the fiberglass at the #3 mount, otherwise you have to lift the body off the frame............spray all eight bolts as good as possible with rust penetrating oil/lubricant and let it soak for a day...
I drove the car: feels like a new car now....
No, the Vette is sitting on four jackstands - on the photos I'm jacking the body off the frame. The wood is there for better load distribution, with the jack alone you'll likely crack/puncture the floorboard...If you do one side at a time half the body's weight is still supported on the opposite side. I was able to turn the handle without an extension so there was not a lot of weight on the jack.
Awesome pictures. Why would you have to lift the car off the frame on the #3 though? I've not replaced my mounts, I'm just wondering what the purpose is. Will an air rachet fit in the hole? Also, did you tighten each one down as your replaced it or did you waiting until they were all installed?
You just cannot get to the #3 mount, you can get the bolt out but that's about it....
I did not tighten the bolts until all eight mounts were replaced and I verified all eight were 'loaded'. I checked all eight mounts and made sure that the body's weight is on the mounts - if you cannot turn the poly block then it's fine - if one ore more are loose then you'll need to add shims until all eight are equally tight...
These shims are avaiable at Lowe's or HomeDepot in different thicknesses, these are fender washers, they're about 13 cents each....
I only got 16 washers with my poly mount kit, I heard from another forum member that he did not get any shims.... you will need them for fine adjustment...
Really good write up. This is one of those jobs that i`ll have to do but is afraid of having to do it
What do i have to unhook to replace them like you did?
Did you loosen all bolts before you jacked up one side of the body?
Really good write up. This is one of those jobs that i`ll have to do but is afraid of having to do it
What do i have to unhook to replace them like you did?
Did you loosen all bolts before you jacked up one side of the body?
Only the battery ground cable needs to be disconnected, that's it. The body needs to be lifted only 1" -- everything else is flexible enough to allow this move.
yes, I loosened all bolts first - well, I had to cut the #4 bolts and both #1 bolts broke off....
If I had to do it again I would drill a small hole in #2 and #3 upper shim so that lubricant can be injected through this hole and run down the bolt to actually reach the threads... I'd let it soak for at least a day..
i notice that there is a big price difference between rubber and poly...the rubber being much more expensive...
i have always heard that poly squeeks more than rubber...???
also i see that Zip is $20 more than Eckler and they look different in the pix...
i notice that there is a big price difference between rubber and poly...the rubber being much more expensive...
i have always heard that poly squeeks more than rubber...???
also i see that Zip is $20 more than Eckler and they look different in the pix...
what am i missing here???
The poly mounts are $59 at Ecklers, plus $20 for the bolts ... I would think that the bolts can be purchased at the local hardware store for a lot less....
i don't have a clue why they charge up to $180 for the rubber mounts - I can only assume these are GM parts...
The poly body mounts won't squeek because there shouldn't be any movement after everything is tightened... it doesn't really matter what they look like, it's just a spacer between the body and the frame, as long as it fits in there.... they could be square and it wouldn't make a difference....
The poly mounts are $59 at Ecklers, plus $20 for the bolts ... I would think that the bolts can be purchased at the local hardware store for a lot less....
i don't have a clue why they charge up to $180 for the rubber mounts - I can only assume these are GM parts...
The poly body mounts won't squeek because there shouldn't be any movement after everything is tightened... it doesn't really matter what they look like, it's just a spacer between the body and the frame, as long as it fits in there.... they could be square and it wouldn't make a difference....
I have been soaking mine but not sure its getting to the threads. What happens if you break the bolts off (pretty sure some of mine will)? Can you get to the nuts if you have to replace them? Also it looks as if the front bumper brackets and the rear bumper (shock absorbing part) would have to be unbolted??? Mine is a 77 and replaced #4 on both sides including frame mount 2 years ago so pretty sure I won't have any problem with this one. 2&3 are the ones that scare me.Would sure appreciate your input on this as I know mine need replaced.
I have been soaking mine but not sure its getting to the threads. What happens if you break the bolts off (pretty sure some of mine will)? Can you get to the nuts if you have to replace them? Also it looks as if the front bumper brackets and the rear bumper (shock absorbing part) would have to be unbolted??? Mine is a 77 and replaced #4 on both sides including frame mount 2 years ago so pretty sure I won't have any problem with this one. 2&3 are the ones that scare me.Would sure appreciate your input on this as I know mine need replaced.
You can drill a small hole in the washer next to the bolt's hexagon head, then inject the lubricant so it can run down the bolt and hopefully get to the threads...if the #2 bolts break then you're scre%$#%ed.... you can not get to the nut at all, you will have to lift the body off...
If #3 bolts break or the nut spins in it's cage then you can cut the cage and re-weld the nut to the frame - I did that on my #3 driver side mount, this is not fun...
You don't have to unbolt anything other than the battery cable to lift the body 1"