When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am looking at putting a 383 in my car. The cam I am looking at is 502 lift and 240/250 duration. Will I have enough vacuum??? If not where will I run into vacuum problems??
Not with a 383. Even with very wide (over 114 degree) LSA, I doubt you'll see 10 in/hg. If you have manual brakes, then you can expect some peculiar behavior out of your systems that require vacuum like the headlights and the HVAC system until you get a sufficient level of vacuum in the tank. If you have power brakes, then you have created a problem that will not let you rest.
But all is not lost. You can do as I have done on my '67 Fairlane...get an SSBC electric vacuum pump. Turns on at 18" and off at 24" and works great. Or you could go with Hydroboost for the brakes if you have power steering, but that doesn't address the vacuum items like the HVAC and lights.
A reserve vacuum tank is very doubtful if this car sees regular street use.
I have a solid cam with 248 @ .050 and .525 lift. I get around 8 to 9 inches at idle. My headlights work with no problem. Ido not have power brakes (Hydroboost on mine) so that was not a problem. A 383 can stand a little more duration than a 350 due to larger cubic inches. I don't think you will have a problem unless you are running power brakes.
I'm also putting in fairly large cam in my 78 / 454 for a weekend driver. I bought a vacuum reservor..but according to the last post that may not help either???? I'm using all Edlebrock recommended components (heads, manifold, carb, etc.) I'm thinking I'm going to be borderline for vacuum, but still need the power brakes to work.... Comments on the this cam please.
I do have power brakes and steering. The car is a weekend fair weather car, and, does not see much night time driving.
Any suggestions on what cam to use?
Nobody has listed their static or dynamic compression ratio. This matters as much as the cam selection as to weather you will have proper vacuum or not. My 406 has a cam that measures 256/270 at .050 and I have 10 inches of vacuum at idle in gear. The compression ratio on my engine is 11.8 to 1.
The compression ratio has no bearing on the engine vacuum or I should say little to do. The larger an engine in cubic inches the more duration it can handle. What gives 9 inches on a 350 might give 13 inches on a 400. I would not worry so much about headlight operation as I would worry about having good brakes. Crawling in traffic with no power brakes can be a problem. If the headlights don't go up give it a little throttle to build vacuum and the headlights will work. You only need it momentarly for the headlights. Once up and once down. For a 383 a cam in the 230 to 240 @.050 should be a very good performer. I know mine has to much duration and will someday switch to a roller cm or just go 383 with a roller cam
I did a search on Hydroboost. A little pricy ($800-$900) for the budget I am on. Will a 230 to 240 @.050 cam give me enough vacuum to operate my power brakes?
The compression ratio has no bearing on the engine vacuum or I should say little to do. The larger an engine in cubic inches the more duration it can handle. What gives 9 inches on a 350 might give 13 inches on a 400. ...
Compression ratio has always had a significant impact on engine vacuum. I guarantee that if you take two identical engines with the only difference being the compression ratio, the one with the lower compression ratio will have measurably lower engine vacuum. How much depends on the compression difference. It's not uncommon to see four to five in/hg when just going from 8 to 10:1. Anything that affects cylinder pressure, including ignition timing, will affect the engine's vacuum.
Displacement alone can tame a big cam because it can suck more air, making charge dilution less apparant.
I agree on the other points, including how to make a poor sucker's headlights, wiper door and hvac work.
Also, two cams with identical valve events, one being hydraulic, the other solid, the solid will generate more vacuum due to the lash.
I did a search on Hydroboost. A little pricy ($800-$900) for the budget I am on. Will a 230 to 240 @.050 cam give me enough vacuum to operate my power brakes?
Again, my Fairlane pulls 11" hg and the brakes were dangerous at best. The electric vacuum pump works great. I don't have to worry about multiple brake applications. I run a Hydroboost on the 'Vette and can attest to its performance. So either solution works. Just different approaches to the same problem.
Yup you are right on the compression. Brain fart on that one. I installed my Hydroboost for 500 when they had a discount on them. What a difference in the brakes. Of course I went from manual to power but they have a better feel than power (vacuum) brakes. The system is quite small and works very well.
That is a tough one to answer. The 230 will be a better choice for torque and for the vacuum but the 240 will really wake up the motor in the upper rpms if you have the heads for it. If you stick with the 230 to 235 with a 383 you should be OK. With a 9.5 to 1 motor I would stay closer to the 230. In the 240 range it will be real soggy in the lower rpms. I know you are looking for a yes or no answer but it is almost impossible to answer. Every car and motor will be a little different.
As for my 383, my cam adjusted for the 1.6 roller rockers is 240/242@.050 with a 520/522 lift and my vacuum is fine for the brakes and the lights. I don't even run a canister, hosed straight off the intake. Brakes are fine even in downtown ATL traffic. I am running 11.9:1 compression ratio though don't know if that has anything to do with it.