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Power Door Switch

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Old Jan 5, 2005 | 03:18 PM
  #1  
Koz
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Default Power Door Switch

I've been having problems with my Power locks and they finally stopped. I opend up the drivers side and I wanted to test the switch. I have power comming into the wire harness. Can I jump the hot in the harness to the other wires to test if the locks work? I'm afraid I'll short out something. There are 5 wires in the harness. Can someone give me some idea on how to test this. Any help is appreciated.

Forgot to list.. She's a 1980..

Last edited by Koz; Jan 5, 2005 at 03:25 PM.
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Old Jan 5, 2005 | 04:04 PM
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Sean82
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From: Kelowna, B.C. Canada
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The pass side is the master side. If both locks do not work then the pass side is at fault.
If just the driver side does not work, I would still start on the pass side to check for power and ground to the driver side.
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Old Jan 5, 2005 | 04:22 PM
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Koz
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Originally Posted by Sean82
The pass side is the master side. If both locks do not work then the pass side is at fault.
If just the driver side does not work, I would still start on the pass side to check for power and ground to the driver side.
Not sure I understand. The locks use to work which really doesn't mean much.. but the passenger side looks clean. The drivers side was messed up at one point and patched/soldered/bubba'd together. I do have power at the driver side. Using a test light if I touch the power leg and any of the other wires I get a light which would imply a ground on all the other wires. Is that normal? I was going to try touching a jumper wire from hot to the other wires but wanted to check with someone else before trying.. Thanks for the help..
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Old Jan 5, 2005 | 05:25 PM
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Koz
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Update: I decided to play. On the drivers side the back of the wire harness is missing so it's easy to get to the wires. I found the hot leg and started touching it to the other wires. I could get both locks to lock by just pushing to lock on the drives side switch. When I try to lock from the Passenger side I get nothing. On the drivers side If I jumped the blue and grey wires and then hit the open both locks would open..again from the drivers side only. Passenger side still dead. I took the switch off the passenger side and found the hot leg using a test light so it's getting power. I tried doing the same jumping from hot to the other wires through the holes but blew the fuse.. So I'm done till I get a new fuse. So I'm wondering if I have a bad switch too. I have to replace the drivers side wire harness which isn't too bad at $12.. How do I know if I need a new switch too?
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Old Jan 5, 2005 | 05:38 PM
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Ak. Mal
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From: Kansas City, MO ...I'd like to go fishing and catch a fishstick. That'd be convenient. - Mitch Hedberg
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Sorry for getting at little off the subject here, but do you still have the wire harness in the passenger door exposed? If so, can you tell me what wires connect at what position on the harness or take a picture?

I bought new harnesses because my old ones had corroded and 3 of the five wires were not connected. The new harnesses do not use the same wire colors.
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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 10:03 AM
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Koz
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Hope these help.

http://www.corvetteforum.net/c3/koz/passdoorlock1.jpg
http://www.corvetteforum.net/c3/koz/passdoorlock2.jpg
http://www.corvetteforum.net/c3/koz/passdoorlock3.jpg

You can also see a wire diagram at this site.
http://iotech.no/corvette/ Go under Technical/1980 Electrical schematics/doors



Can anyone tell me how to test for a bad switch? Thanks!

Last edited by Koz; Jan 6, 2005 at 10:05 AM.
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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 11:11 AM
  #7  
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Ak. Mal
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From: Kansas City, MO ...I'd like to go fishing and catch a fishstick. That'd be convenient. - Mitch Hedberg
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Those help me out more than you can imagine. Thank you so much.

I wish I could tell you how to test for a bad switch, but I can't.

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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 11:43 AM
  #8  
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Ak. Mal
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From: Kansas City, MO ...I'd like to go fishing and catch a fishstick. That'd be convenient. - Mitch Hedberg
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Koz - If you don't mind, I have one other quick favor to ask if you still have the panel off. On the picture below, can you tell me which two black wires are grounded directly to the door?

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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 12:15 PM
  #9  
Koz
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Sorry.. That I haven't figured out. All the wires go into the wire harness which you can see in picture 1. I know I have a ground in there because when trying to test the locks I blew the fuse but what the wires connect to I haven't traced.. yet. I'll have to split open the harness and trace them. Damm. I wish there was a step by step procedure to follow to test this hole setup. I have to pickup a few more 20amp fuses before I can play again.

Last edited by Koz; Jan 6, 2005 at 12:17 PM.
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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 02:23 PM
  #10  
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Ak. Mal
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From: Kansas City, MO ...I'd like to go fishing and catch a fishstick. That'd be convenient. - Mitch Hedberg
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I'm such a dumbarse. I went back to my schematic from Lectric Limited that covers the whole car. Now that I have pictures showing both original harnesses, I checked that against the scheme. Turns out the scheme actually shows the physical location of the wires within the harness.

If you have any questions, I can check my scheme for you. I'm going to try to get the thing scanned in and re-draw it in AutoCAD, but it will probably take me some time. It shows far more detail than the link to the one you posted earlier.
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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 02:58 PM
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Koz
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Originally Posted by Ak. Mal
I'm such a dumbarse. I went back to my schematic from Lectric Limited that covers the whole car.
Is this a web site? I can use all the help I can get! Thanks! Where did you order your harnesses from? Ecklers has them for around $12 but they get over $8 in shipping.
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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 03:59 PM
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From: Kansas City, MO ...I'd like to go fishing and catch a fishstick. That'd be convenient. - Mitch Hedberg
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I orded the schematic from http://www.lectriclimited.com/mainpage.htm It cost $12 + s/h. Look under "wiring diagrams".

I ordered my harnesses from The Last Detail. I always try group my orders so I don't get stuffed with a shipping charge for something small.
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