sound deadener/heat shield
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 292
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From: Thomasville Ga
sound deadener/heat shield
I'm doing the interior on my 71 vert. I have a sound deadener that is much like the original Dynomat, but is slightly different...it is a rubberized/asphalt mix with an adhesive...chemically it is Bituthene...made by Grace corp....it is originally a water-proofing material...
any way...my question is...
I am going to use Reflectix for the heat shielding...so, should I lay down the Reflectix first and then put the sound deadener on top of it(closest to the carpet) ...or glue down the sound deadener with its adhesive and put the reflectix on top (closest to the carpet).
Thanks.
any way...my question is...
I am going to use Reflectix for the heat shielding...so, should I lay down the Reflectix first and then put the sound deadener on top of it(closest to the carpet) ...or glue down the sound deadener with its adhesive and put the reflectix on top (closest to the carpet).
Thanks.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 54,204
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From: S.W. Ohio. . . . . . NRA Life Member
it is a rubberized/asphalt mix with an adhesive
Dynamat, Cascade and other sound deadener mfgrs have moved away from petrol based materials and have released new tar-free products (like Dynamat Xtreme) that no longer contaiin pteroleum based fillers... due to complaints about the tar smell.
Be careful what you choose; you don't want have to do the job twice.
http://mikemercury.home.att.net/sound.htm
Pro
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 508
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From: Maplewood NJ
IMO, I would say put the Reflectix down first to keep the sound deadener from heating up and/or deteriorating. The sound proofing mat may absorb the heat and actually keep it inside the cabin, albeit, below the heat shield but it would still keep the heat around longer. If the Reflectix is first it should bounce the heat back through the floor pans without keeping it around any longer.
Matt
Matt
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 292
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From: Thomasville Ga
Thanks to each of you for your replies
I, too, have worries about the off-gassing, and was thinking putting the Reflectix first would keep the deadener from the floor heat...also, I live in S. Georgia and the heat in the summer here can easily top 100 degrees by itself...let alone what it would be in a sealed-up car...of course, mine is a convertible so 'sealed' isn't what the car is even with the top up...this product says it is stable up to 130 degrees...but, I wonder...I SURE don't want to do this again...
I, too, have worries about the off-gassing, and was thinking putting the Reflectix first would keep the deadener from the floor heat...also, I live in S. Georgia and the heat in the summer here can easily top 100 degrees by itself...let alone what it would be in a sealed-up car...of course, mine is a convertible so 'sealed' isn't what the car is even with the top up...this product says it is stable up to 130 degrees...but, I wonder...I SURE don't want to do this again...
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Products like Dynamat only work if they have a good bond to the surface they are trying to sound proof. Laying it on top of something takes away from their dampening.
They rely on a very good secure bond.
They rely on a very good secure bond.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Smile, it's just the internet.
Norval's right. If you put the deadener on the Reflectix, you may as well consider sending me the money instead because it won't do much for sound attenuation. The deadeners convert the vibration of the radiating surface (in this case, the car body) into low level heat in the form of friction. Simply, it "stops" the panels from vibrating.
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Team Owner
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From: Smile, it's just the internet.
If it wasn't designed for an automotive environment, I'd be concerned. Like Mike said, car interiors can reach 150 degrees in the summer. I don't know anything about the product you've got, but I'd put it under a hot blow-drier for a minute and see what happens before I covered my car with it. Once you put on, it ain't coming off. If it melts or stinks or smokes, I certainly wouldn't use in the car. Just my opinion...
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Thomasville Ga
Pretty good opinion, CGG...Thanks.
And good idea with the hairdryer...I'll try it tonight
Interestingly, using a hair dryer is one of the ways to mold it to surfaces that aren't simply flat...
And good idea with the hairdryer...I'll try it tonight
Interestingly, using a hair dryer is one of the ways to mold it to surfaces that aren't simply flat...
Pro
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 581
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From: Southeast WI
I refurbed my interior this past summer. I put down the Dynamat first and then the Reflectix on top of the Dynamat for the reasons previously described. Granted, I live in Wisconsin, not in a super hot climate, but I haven't noticed any smell which would indicate the Dynamat is melting. Everything seems fine to me.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by Tele_Man
I refurbed my interior this past summer. I put down the Dynamat first and then the Reflectix on top of the Dynamat for the reasons previously described. Granted, I live in Wisconsin, not in a super hot climate, but I haven't noticed any smell which would indicate the Dynamat is melting. Everything seems fine to me.
I am spending about $300. adding about 50 pounds and many many hours. It is worth the trouble????
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,608
Likes: 3
From: Canberra AUSTRALIA
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
I put down two layers of foil tape, a layer of the bitumen style sound proofing, then a layer of foil/insulation from JC Whitney, then the insulation that came with the carpet. In some places I put a double layer of the JC WHiteny stuff and in others I ommitted it. I also put a layer of Zeroclearance foil/foam insualtion on the outside. My heatshields still have not been re-installed, I am re-making them larger to cover under the floor pan as well as in front out of stainless.
I have spent about $250 so far.
IT IS WORTH IT. The car is quieter and significantly cooler. One of my friends had his shoes off on the passenger side and made a comment about how cool it was there. Previously my wife had complained about hot feet on that side with shoes on before I put in the insulation.
(Have 2&1/2" stainless exhaust)
I still have to do the doors and the heat shields but it is already a lot more comfortable in there.
I wouldn't have used the bitumen style stuff now but since its in there its not coming out!
I have spent about $250 so far.
IT IS WORTH IT. The car is quieter and significantly cooler. One of my friends had his shoes off on the passenger side and made a comment about how cool it was there. Previously my wife had complained about hot feet on that side with shoes on before I put in the insulation.
(Have 2&1/2" stainless exhaust)
I still have to do the doors and the heat shields but it is already a lot more comfortable in there.
I wouldn't have used the bitumen style stuff now but since its in there its not coming out!
Last edited by stingry; Jan 6, 2005 at 01:38 PM. Reason: fat fingers
Pro
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Southeast WI
I hear ya. It took me a LOT of time to apply the Dynamat and Reflectix. I wanted to do a careful job of it. I can't honestly say that the Dynamat made a big difference. However, I can say that the cockpit is definitely cooler. I don't feel the radiant heat from the exhaust pipes the way I used to.
I'm glad the job is done and I don't expect to ever replace the carpeting again. Cross my fingers.
I'm glad the job is done and I don't expect to ever replace the carpeting again. Cross my fingers.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 54,204
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From: S.W. Ohio. . . . . . NRA Life Member
If the Reflectix is first it should bounce the heat back through the floor pans without keeping it around any longer.
Products like Dynamat only work if they have a good bond to the surface they are trying to sound proof. Laying it on top of something takes away from their dampening.
you can either reduce sound via separation (thickness) or dampening. With an automotive application, thickness is not feasible.
In order for dampening to work, you must bond with the noisy surface. Doing this reduces the surfaces resonate frequency down to a point it doesn't conduct any of the irritable frequencies.
So if you wanted to layer differing materials, the one used for sound reduction should go down first - against the cars surfaces.
For heat reduction, you will get better results by not bonding to the surface. Bonding/gluing of these heat-shield type materials only aid in the conduction of heat and make it more difficult for the material to keep the inside surface cool.
Because of these differing characteristics, I think that is why you see "single" layers of different materials used (noise reduction type where it works the best; heat reduction material where is does best).
I can imagine that doubling-up of the same material would be OK. But if mixing layer material type - you should put the sound deadener material directly against the interiors surfaces.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 292
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From: Thomasville Ga
Stingry...I notice you're in Panama City...so, not far from me, and you're in the heat there...have you had any problems with the bitumine material 'off-gassing' the asphalt smell from heat in the floors?
Also, how was it to install? easy? hard? messy?
any experiences you've had with it would be helpful...thanks
Also, how was it to install? easy? hard? messy?
any experiences you've had with it would be helpful...thanks
