I mounted a remote solenoid, here's my problem, I put the solenoid on the fenderwell, I took the s-wire from the solenoid that was attached to my starter and ran it to the Ford solenoid and took the battery cable and hooked that up to one side of the solenoid and hooked the battery cable to the other side of the solenoid, the only wires that are on my starter is the 2, they are the red 4 gauge (power supply and another wire, think it's accesories, it's hooked on the same post, as it always was) now if course I now know that wire should of been brought up and attached to the remote solenoid, but the starter will not engauge now, what is the correct way to do this??

 

You need a jumper from the "big" wire on the starter to the "s" terminal on the starter.

 

Sorry but remotes don't make sense to me. But since u drive a '74 too (nice mtr dude those underhood gauges are way cool) i will try to help.
U need to get familar with a multi-meter to measure resistance - $15 Home Depot and review the instructions. Should be infinite (or really hi) resistance between large terms on that remote sol when not energized. U need to connect both red wires (large from batt pos + and smaller red wire) to the large terminal on remote sol. Connect more large red batt cable from the other large term on remote sol to the start sol large term. Now connect a jumper from that purple wire connected to the small "S" term on starter sol to the only small term on the remote sol (use 16 gauge & purple). Now u need to ground the case of that remote sol to make it work - the case is used as a gnd lead. Just connect a 16 gauge wire (black) from one of the mounting screws to the frame or engine and verify less than 1 ohm resistance from the remote case to frame or engine metal. And now u will have a small resistance (<50 ohms) from that remote sol small term (now with purple jumper wire) and gnd - this is the sol coil resistance.
Sounds like ur yellow coil wire is cut/removed so i won't even discuss this other than it won't help the starter only the coil/spark voltage.
To review only 2 large terms on the remote sol for the batt pos + cables and a term for starter "S" wire that engergizes that solenoid to make contact/continuity between the batt cables (to energize the starter).
Try to contact MegaWatt as he runs a remote and reports good results. Myself i see the problem as too much heat to the fixed starter solenoid that still has to do the job of pulling in the lever that throws out the bendix gear - even with a remote sol installed. Get a mini or use an effective heat sheild (JC Whitney $20). cardo0

 

You must ground the Ford solenoid for it to function properly on a plastic car.

Leave the fat red power wire on the GM starter alone. Remove the thin purple wire from the GM starter and run it to the small "S" terminal on the Ford solenoid. Run a new 10 GA wire with a large terminal on each end from one of the big Ford solenoid terminals to the fat power terminal on the GM starter. Run another new 10 Ga wire from the other fat Ford terminal to the small "S" terminal on the GM starter.

Now when you hit the key, electrical power will flow from the fat 12V GM starter lug, through the Ford solenoid, and back down to the small "S" terminal on the starter and it will then crank away because the starter will be getting enough power to properly pull the GM sloenoid in all the way. Simple and cheap but effective.

The Ford solenoid is way over sized for this function so it should last a real long time.

This "Ford solenoid" mod makes it real easy to hook up a remote starter switch for engine service. I like to get rid of the yellow ignition resistor bypass wire when you do this mod. Leaving it hooked up will allow the car to start and run while cranking even with the key in the "OFF" position. This might happen when setting valves on a solid lifter cam for example.

-Mark.