Hello,
I have been following this forum for some time now but just joined and I would like to say it is excellent. The knowledge, humor and members willing to help is a great asset to many, hopefully me this time. I purchased a 82 Collector's about six years ago and enjoy the heck out of it, everyday driver. Recently the front end has started wanting to wonder on even the slightest rough or uneven road. You can feel it pulling the steering wheel when it happens. The front end was totally rebuilt 2 years ago and I have had it checked recently in two different shops. Both say they can not find anything wrong. One shop also checked alignment. My question is does anyone know if this could be a symptom of a steering control valve or perhaps a booster going bad? I have notice in some GM documentation the call the cylinder a "stabilizer", first time I have heard it called that.

Thank you for any information,
Andy

 

i would be looking closely at the idler arm ( did the rebuild include a new idler arm?), and especially the steering gear box and rag joint...and some times a worn out rear end will create rear steer situations...

 

Yes it did include the idler arm. Also that was the fist thing checked in both shops. I do not think either checked the rear end but I can certainly have that done although my local dealership does not seem to want to work on it.

Thanks,
Andy

 

look for previous posts on checking rear bearings, strut rods and side yokes....and then hold your wallet real tight....

 

My '79 has the same wandering effect. I looked at the rear strut bushing and they were oil soaked and mushy. Also check the power ram bushing and rag joint.

 

I understand the wallet. Been through the rear end rebuild, seals and bearings. I need to check but I think they also replaced the strut bushings. That took the beer money for a long time.

Andy

 

The stabilizer is sort of like the power ram in the power assisted steering, with the exception that it's not a hydraulic ram but more a shock absorber, so a stabilizer is sometimes used in manual setups and a ram in power assisted.

 

If your power steering control valve is unbalanced, it would cause a tendency to veer. It appears you don't consider yourself a mechanic but this is very easy to check and fix. Just get the front end up on jackstands so wheels are off the ground, and start the car - remember to not have your hands inside the steering wheel as an unbalanced valve will cause the wheel to rotate to lock one way or the other.
If the wheels don't move, your problem lies elsewhere, but if they do, you need to adjust the valve. There is a nut and set screw on the valve that when rotated will cause the wheels to turn to lock. Rotate the other way and they'll turn back. Halfway between those points is the balance point where all is good. Tighten up and drive.

 

ohhhhhhhhh god noooooooooo, not the beer money

 

Yes on the beer money but it is well worth it. I can do the simple mechanical but I leave the other stuff to the guys that know. Just seems like those guys are hard to find.

The strut bushings was changed with the rear end work. I thought I remembered the machanic talking about the "big" hammer.

I will check the control valve as you suggested FeedVaal and have the shop check the rear suspension.

Thanks very much to all for the info so far.

Andy

P.S. The recipt said Trailing Arm bushings, not strut. GREAT FAQs also!

 

I think it is time to read some articles about adjusting your steering gear box...after having my front end and rear end rebuilt i still had these wandering problems and eliminated them by adjusting the steering gear box...it made it alot better....previously on a heavily rutted road the car would wander all over the ruts after this adjustment it stayed very straight when i held the wheel....

 

Thanks Bobs77vet,
Just checked the FAQs and one for rebuilding gives details for adjusting at the end. I may check into the price of a rebuilt or new also. I have several things to check or have checked and I really hope I can get this nailed down and fixed. My other vehicle is a Explorer and for some reason it is just not the same to drive, but it does serve it's purpose.

Andy

 

Thanks to all that offered suggestions yesterday. Got the front end up last night and checked the control valve as FeedVaal suggested. Cranked it with the wheels straight ahead and never saw the steering wheel move. Checked the flexible coupling and it appears to be fine. Also could not see anything wrong with the stabilizer bushings, idler arm ok. I did try tightening up on the backlash in the steering gear a little, quarter turn, drove it, another quarter turn and it may have made the problem a little better but there is still something wrong. It was getting late by this time but I will keep looking. Again thanks everyone for the suggestions.

I have seen a couple of rants about dealerships and there mechanics and I would like to add one. The first problem I had with my local dealership was a few years back when I needed the rear end rebuilt. Took the car down to the dealership ready to sign my life savings away. They took the car around the back to the shop and kept it there for about 2 minutes and then it came back out. The shop manager they proceeded to tell me he could not work on the car because they no longer had the tools to put bearings and seals in it. True story. I took it to a shop in TN, 3 days later it was fixed along with some other suspension work and has been fine so far. Yesterday afternoon I called the same dealership on getting the rear end and suspension checked. I was told they really did not work on the older Vettes much but for me to call back in a week and he would see if he had someone available. Sorry for the rant on my first thread.