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5 speed install advice?

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Old Jan 18, 2005 | 06:59 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by flynhi
I'm expecting to receive my 5sp any day now and I have a coupla questions:
1. What is best way to remove fixed crossmember - cutting torch? Sawzall? or ?
2. What is best way to bolt in the crossmember from an auto car that I have? Drill and tap the frame? Somehow weld nuts into frame cavity or ?

Any other tips on changing crossmembers?
After we installed the 5 speed and drove it. A couple of weeks later I cutout the cross member. I'm not going through that again. FYI I've welding all my life. I'm 57 so I used a sawsall long blade. Be very careful cutting. There is one spot on both side that is a bitch. The long blade is to long. So I cut off the excess blade with a cutting wheel. I used squar tubing. With the center peace on the bench. Cut 4 pcs. of 1/4" x 2"x 6" flat stock. Slip inside and clamp them to the crossmember on the car. Make sure they are centered. because this is what you will bolt to. Now, back to the bench. What ever lenth you decide on. I think mine was 6" on the out side and 4" on the inside. Drill eight 1/4" holes in the front and back side of the angle or square tube. Drill holes in the 6"side. Four each side. Now, Bolt the center section back inplace. Now, Clamp and tack w/temporary welds. You are ready to drill and tape. I used 1/2" bolts. Once every thing is bolted inplace tight even the tail shaft. Weld the center peace. Your done. Keep us posted.
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Old Jan 18, 2005 | 08:58 PM
  #22  
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flynhi
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From: Austin TX
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Brown78,
I'm confused. You installed the 5sp, drove it for two weeks and then decided to remove the center of the crossmember? Were you initially able to install the 5sp without cutting the crossmember? Did you cut the crossmember because you had to remove the 5sp for some reason?

About how wide is the center piece you cut out? I think I understand that you used 4x6x1/8 angle and bolted into the flat stock that you tacked into the inside of the remaining crossmember.

Am I getting this right?
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Old Jan 18, 2005 | 09:02 PM
  #23  
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Hey Will. Have you checked out my pics?
http://home.comcast.net/~ddecart/Transmission.html
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Old Jan 18, 2005 | 11:43 PM
  #24  
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From: Everfrost Second Life
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If I may offer a suggestion...

If you feel you must stick the Ford T5 in the Chevy, do yourself a big favor.

You can easily stick a new $35 CAST IRON T5 GM bearing retainer on the Ford T5 and avoid the adapter plate thing and having to keep the crappy Ford aluminum retainer. You can also drill the bellhousing or modify the bell for the Ford pattern, and if you have a 2.95 ratio T5 even stick a GM input shaft in the front.

Modding the bell requires adding material to the bottom and redrilling it. You can simply get a very well made universal adapter plate from Mcleod industures for about $125.00, that should space the Ford input correctly if you want to go the plate route.

Want to be slick, just get a GM case. A new case is $70, a GM retainer $35. Now the only thing you have to do is get a GM input for $80.00. I rather spend the labor swapping out the front of the transmission so it bolts clean up to the factory bell, then go thru this whole fabrication exercise. If you have a 3.35 ratio T5 Ford, then your stuck with the Ford Style input.

Paul

www.5speeds.com

Last edited by 5speeds; Jan 18, 2005 at 11:51 PM.
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Old Jan 19, 2005 | 12:16 AM
  #25  
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From: Oyen Alberta
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Thanks for the info WESCH. I will cut the tunnel and fab a plate to cover the old hole. The Keisler TKO must have a different case to have the offset shifter.
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Old Jan 19, 2005 | 09:41 PM
  #26  
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From: pr, frederick md.
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Originally Posted by Mod 77
Thanks for the info WESCH. I will cut the tunnel and fab a plate to cover the old hole. The Keisler TKO must have a different case to have the offset shifter.
not a different case, they use an offset block to move the whole shifter to the left. with an adapter plate to seal the old hole
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Old Jan 20, 2005 | 12:20 AM
  #27  
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From: Oyen Alberta
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Originally Posted by redc3
not a different case, they use an offset block to move the whole shifter to the left. with an adapter plate to seal the old hole
Would you happen to have a picture of this? Thanks
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