Any tips on stuck trailing arm bolt?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 607
Likes: 0
From: North Alabama
Any tips on stuck trailing arm bolt?
Well, I went to get the car aligned today and seems that one of the 37 year old rear trailing arm bolts seems to be rusted in the sleeve that runs through the trailing arm and frame. Does anyone have any tips for how to get this thing off? If I cant, I guess I will be cutting off the bolt (if I can get to it) and putting in a new one.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
Sawzall!. That is the fastest and easiest way to get it out. get a quality bimetal blade and start sawing. You might have to take the control arm out as mine was stuck in the sleeve and had to hammer out the cut portion. It is a dirty messy job. Good luck
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,725
Likes: 5
From: Minnesota
Also, don't even try to cut the bolt off without removing the shims first. (Yes, I tried it that way. 
) It may be very tough to get the shims out but that's the only place to cut the bolts without ruining your sawzall and your temper. Have fun! 
I think it's one of those rites of passage of being a Vette owner. 
) It may be very tough to get the shims out but that's the only place to cut the bolts without ruining your sawzall and your temper. Have fun! I think it's one of those rites of passage of being a Vette owner.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
I bought a reciprocating saw at Lowes and cut the bolt AND the shims - it was all rusted to one chunk of rust/metal... I replaced it all with stainless hardware....
If the saw does not have adjustable stroke you may have to shorten the blade, it worked fine when I did it....
If the saw does not have adjustable stroke you may have to shorten the blade, it worked fine when I did it....
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
I agree they need to be cut out. I used a high speed air die grinder and cut the head off. The sawzall is used by alot of members but it will take a whole evening and you need to replace the bushing and use stainless shims.
I actually cut the nut, then worked the shims out piece by peice creating clearance.
It is a tough job but you can't expect the alignment guys to do it.
I actually cut the nut, then worked the shims out piece by peice creating clearance.
It is a tough job but you can't expect the alignment guys to do it.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Race Director
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 10,643
Likes: 8
From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
Sawzall...just cut through the shims and everything. You'll be replacing them with stainless steel shims anyway, right? I'd allow about 1 hour for each side and about 12 blades - get a pack.
Good luck -
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,725
Likes: 5
From: Minnesota
Get stainless shims, stainless bolts, and poly bushings. I got my bushings from Bairs. It came with a simple installation too. Rubber are tougher to install. If I had to do it again I would probably torch the bolts off with a water hose handy.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
Originally Posted by Jclgodale3
so what will need to be replaced (after cutting the bolt out) before the car can be driven to the alignment shop?
If you can't get the bolt out of the bushing sleeve, then
count on putting new bushing in the trailing arm.
If it's that rusted, inspect the trailing arm for rust/rot, too.
Good Luck
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
Originally Posted by Jclgodale3
so what will need to be replaced (after cutting the bolt out) before the car can be driven to the alignment shop?
Most vendors offer stainless steel shims and bolts in a kit, they also offer the bushings and sleeve as a kit (poly or rubber) - the poly bushings are easier to install because the poly does not need to be compressed like the rubber... the installation tool comes with the kit, photos are in my gallery (click 'my photos' under my avatar)
Note the thickness of the removed shim-pack, re-install the same amount - that is not exact but will get it good enough to drive the car to the alignment shop...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 5,943
Likes: 3
From: Wildwood IL
After spending an hour and five Milwaukee brand Sawzall blades later....I went to Menards and bought "Morse" brand Fire & Rescue 9" Bi-metal blades. Cut through the trailing arm shim, bushing, and grade 8 bolt in HALF that time. Used two blades for both sides.
Eddie
Eddie
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 16,978
Likes: 7
From: In Dreams There Is Truth Ohio
Sawzall, use low speed...you're cutting through a grade 8 bolt....squirt machine cutting oil on the blade as you saw....do not saw dry, as you will go through a ton of blades if you don't use any form of lubricant
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 607
Likes: 0
From: North Alabama
I noticed that when getting the poly bushings it is advised that you have to used the outer shells from the originals.
Question, if I take a sawzall to the thing, am I at risk of ruining that outer shell I will have to reuse? am I just better off with the original bushig? I looked at the original at the chevy dealer and it comes with the rubber wraped with a metal shell...looked like it might be pretty tough to separate.
Question, if I take a sawzall to the thing, am I at risk of ruining that outer shell I will have to reuse? am I just better off with the original bushig? I looked at the original at the chevy dealer and it comes with the rubber wraped with a metal shell...looked like it might be pretty tough to separate.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
Originally Posted by Silvr77
After spending an hour and five Milwaukee brand Sawzall blades later....I went to Menards and bought "Morse" brand Fire & Rescue 9" Bi-metal blades. Cut through the trailing arm shim, bushing, and grade 8 bolt in HALF that time. Used two blades for both sides.
Eddie
Eddie
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
From: Northern VA
I had one that was locked up and I laid a piece of 2X4 against the back end of the TA and hit a few times. It was enough to free it up. I had luck on the other side putting the ratchet end of an extension on the bolt and givin her a few solid shots. 3lb hammer works wonders! Gotta be creative with these things! 
