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Well, I went to get the car aligned today and seems that one of the 37 year old rear trailing arm bolts seems to be rusted in the sleeve that runs through the trailing arm and frame. Does anyone have any tips for how to get this thing off? If I cant, I guess I will be cutting off the bolt (if I can get to it) and putting in a new one.
Sawzall!. That is the fastest and easiest way to get it out. get a quality bimetal blade and start sawing. You might have to take the control arm out as mine was stuck in the sleeve and had to hammer out the cut portion. It is a dirty messy job. Good luck
Also, don't even try to cut the bolt off without removing the shims first. (Yes, I tried it that way. ) It may be very tough to get the shims out but that's the only place to cut the bolts without ruining your sawzall and your temper. Have fun! I think it's one of those rites of passage of being a Vette owner.
I bought a reciprocating saw at Lowes and cut the bolt AND the shims - it was all rusted to one chunk of rust/metal... I replaced it all with stainless hardware....
If the saw does not have adjustable stroke you may have to shorten the blade, it worked fine when I did it....
I agree they need to be cut out. I used a high speed air die grinder and cut the head off. The sawzall is used by alot of members but it will take a whole evening and you need to replace the bushing and use stainless shims.
I actually cut the nut, then worked the shims out piece by peice creating clearance.
It is a tough job but you can't expect the alignment guys to do it.
Sawzall...just cut through the shims and everything. You'll be replacing them with stainless steel shims anyway, right? I'd allow about 1 hour for each side and about 12 blades - get a pack.
Get stainless shims, stainless bolts, and poly bushings. I got my bushings from Bairs. It came with a simple installation too. Rubber are tougher to install. If I had to do it again I would probably torch the bolts off with a water hose handy.
so what will need to be replaced (after cutting the bolt out) before the car can be driven to the alignment shop?
You'll definitely need a bolt kit and a shim kit.
If you can't get the bolt out of the bushing sleeve, then
count on putting new bushing in the trailing arm.
If it's that rusted, inspect the trailing arm for rust/rot, too.
so what will need to be replaced (after cutting the bolt out) before the car can be driven to the alignment shop?
If it is necessary to cut the bolts and shims out then you can expect the bushing to be shredded....
Most vendors offer stainless steel shims and bolts in a kit, they also offer the bushings and sleeve as a kit (poly or rubber) - the poly bushings are easier to install because the poly does not need to be compressed like the rubber... the installation tool comes with the kit, photos are in my gallery (click 'my photos' under my avatar)
Note the thickness of the removed shim-pack, re-install the same amount - that is not exact but will get it good enough to drive the car to the alignment shop...
After spending an hour and five Milwaukee brand Sawzall blades later....I went to Menards and bought "Morse" brand Fire & Rescue 9" Bi-metal blades. Cut through the trailing arm shim, bushing, and grade 8 bolt in HALF that time. Used two blades for both sides.
Eddie
Sawzall, use low speed...you're cutting through a grade 8 bolt....squirt machine cutting oil on the blade as you saw....do not saw dry, as you will go through a ton of blades if you don't use any form of lubricant
I noticed that when getting the poly bushings it is advised that you have to used the outer shells from the originals.
Question, if I take a sawzall to the thing, am I at risk of ruining that outer shell I will have to reuse? am I just better off with the original bushig? I looked at the original at the chevy dealer and it comes with the rubber wraped with a metal shell...looked like it might be pretty tough to separate.
After spending an hour and five Milwaukee brand Sawzall blades later....I went to Menards and bought "Morse" brand Fire & Rescue 9" Bi-metal blades. Cut through the trailing arm shim, bushing, and grade 8 bolt in HALF that time. Used two blades for both sides.
Eddie
What are you using that crap for. Buy a Lenox blade! I work for Lenox. You were right by getting the fire and rescue blades. We are now coming out with a TiN coated sawzall blades that are unreal. I'll cut off a bunch of sets of trailing arms with 1 blade. I have already done it. They are not cheap but they will outlast anything. (Do I sound like a salesman)
I had one that was locked up and I laid a piece of 2X4 against the back end of the TA and hit a few times. It was enough to free it up. I had luck on the other side putting the ratchet end of an extension on the bolt and givin her a few solid shots. 3lb hammer works wonders! Gotta be creative with these things!