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Which RPM range?

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Old Jan 16, 2005 | 09:00 PM
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Default Which RPM range?

Now that I have my engine running well, its time to start the mods. One of the first things will be a new intake. Which RPM range intake should I go with? Would it be better to go with off-idle to 5,500 range or 1,500 to 6,500 or 2,500 to 7,500???? I plan to go with a new cam later and headers, and when the engine is rebuilt I plan to go with higher compression pistons. Do I need to go with the lower range or higher?
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Old Jan 16, 2005 | 09:08 PM
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Most often lower is better. You'll have to remind us of how your car is setup: year, other engine mods, rear end gear ratio, tranny type, plus the type of driving you do. Joe
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Old Jan 16, 2005 | 09:14 PM
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How about a Victor Junior 3500-8000 RPM

Serously we need more info on the motor and rear end and remember the RPM range is where it performs the best it will still run fine under the lower number it is rated for.

Last edited by MotorHead; Jan 16, 2005 at 09:17 PM.
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Old Jan 16, 2005 | 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by MotorHead
How about a Victor Junior 3000-8500 RPM
That might not be as-bad a choice as some would think:
I've run the Victor Jr, and a 327/365 HP intake on my old Z28, and the track times don't vary more than .04-.07.....
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Old Jan 16, 2005 | 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by joe73vette
Most often lower is better. You'll have to remind us of how your car is setup: year, other engine mods, rear end gear ratio, tranny type, plus the type of driving you do. Joe
77 L-48 with stock 3 speed auto trans and 3:70 geras. My driving will be street only but I want it to be a very STRONG street engine. Not looking to race (not on the track anyway), would just like to be impressed every time I stomp the gas!
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Old Jan 17, 2005 | 12:01 AM
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What kind of bottom end is in the engine?

I'd be concerned about parts exiting the block at a high rate of speed before cranking one up high enough to use a ingle plane!
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Old Jan 17, 2005 | 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by ZD75blue
What kind of bottom end is in the engine?

I'd be concerned about parts exiting the block at a high rate of speed before cranking one up high enough to use a ingle plane!
All stock at this time.
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Old Jan 17, 2005 | 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr Fanuc
All stock at this time.
What I've always heard is you dont want to crank a stock rod bolted engine up past 6,000. I think the L48's had a redline of 5500...

The way I'd set it up is to have the torque coming in when the RPM's drop when you shift. Have to figure out what RPM you want that to be...

I'd do a dual plane, lightly ported heads with a valve job, a relatively small torque cam (RV/towing or a little hotter.) and some headers! (Probably cause thats what I'm building )
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Old Jan 17, 2005 | 06:46 PM
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With the 3.70 gears you'll be able to get away with more cam, something like a 270-278 duration. Holley makes a LT-1 manifold clone, #300-36, but then you'll need a holley carb. I think that's good for 6500rpm and it is excellent down low, too. You'll be needing a little higher stall converter to make it all work together - something like a Hughes 2500. Joe
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Old Jan 17, 2005 | 07:37 PM
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I'd do the 1500-6500 and get a little bigger cam since you have 3.70s. Put a 2500-3000 stall in there and you'll be right in the power range of your components.
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Old Jan 17, 2005 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ZD75blue
What I've always heard is you dont want to crank a stock rod bolted engine up past 6,000. I think the L48's had a redline of 5500...

The way I'd set it up is to have the torque coming in when the RPM's drop when you shift. Have to figure out what RPM you want that to be...

I'd do a dual plane, lightly ported heads with a valve job, a relatively small torque cam (RV/towing or a little hotter.) and some headers! (Probably cause thats what I'm building )
After reading all the suggestions, I think I am going to go with the Air Gap manifold or Performer. I like the Performer because you can bolt a Q-jet on with no mods. Will check on the height of the Air Gap and calculate hood clearance. If necessary, I can make a custom adapter that will be a good bit shorter than the "off the shelf" adapters (one of the perks of being a machinist). I met a guy a few weeks ago at a car show who has a '33 coupe with a 383 in it. He has a twin quad high rise on it and doesn't like the placement of the fuel hose. He wants to mount the Y-block between the risers on the manifold but doesn't know how to make a bracket. He has an Air Gap and said he may be willing to swap it for a nice looking custom bracket. Cool huh?
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Old Jan 17, 2005 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr Fanuc
After reading all the suggestions, I think I am going to go with the Air Gap manifold or Performer. I like the Performer because you can bolt a Q-jet on with no mods. Will check on the height of the Air Gap and calculate hood clearance. If necessary, I can make a custom adapter that will be a good bit shorter than the "off the shelf" adapters (one of the perks of being a machinist). I met a guy a few weeks ago at a car show who has a '33 coupe with a 383 in it. He has a twin quad high rise on it and doesn't like the placement of the fuel hose. He wants to mount the Y-block between the risers on the manifold but doesn't know how to make a bracket. He has an Air Gap and said he may be willing to swap it for a nice looking custom bracket. Cool huh?
vary Jump on it
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