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IT's easy.
Just disconnect the battery.
Chock the wheels.
remove the passenger seat
drop the steering column
remove the dash, clean up the wire routing
remove the drivers side door, fix the sloppy hinge
remove the hood
remove the passengers side rear tire, check the emergency brake
remove the entire exhaust and paint it black
detail the engine compartment
repace all the ujoints in the half shafts
send the drive shaft out for polishing
get the diff rebuilt and converted to posi
build a new engine, maybe a 406?
Convert the car from automatic to a 4 speed
get new carpet for the interior
buy ( but don't install just yet ) the steeroids rack and pinion conversion
rebuild the brakes
Buy rebuilt brakes from autozone
buy rebuilt brakes from Ecklers
Remove body from frame for cleaning
rebuild front suspension ( since it's so easy now that the body is off
Rebuild the trailing arms
Put the body back on the frame
reassemble the interior
Sure looks nice now. too bad that Brake booster is so ugly, probably should paint it.
Mine looks terrible and is nearly black. Thinking about using the Eastwood Golden Cad System, don't want to get in over my head.
As I recall, three out of the four bolts to the fire wall are easy. The fourth is horible. You'll sometimes see big holes drilled in firewalls to get at the nut of the forth. Unless you want to replace or rebuild the booster, I'd paint it in place. My $.02.
Ohsixx,
Removing the booster is a big pain. You either have to be a rubberized man or remove the dash panel to get to the 4 nuts. You're better off taping up and painting.
Gary
I replaced mine and all you really need is a 1/4 or 3/8 drive socket with about 6 inches of extensions and a u-joint swivel to connect up to your 4 nuts under the dash.
The brake pedal clip can be trickey.
For the MC, Ive heard you can pull it out of the way far enough to not have to undo the brake lines, to facilitate removal of the booster. I was redoing my brakes so I have it fully removed.
From: Kansas City, MO ...I'd like to go fishing and catch a fishstick. That'd be convenient. - Mitch Hedberg
The top two nuts are a pain. I used two swivel joints and a really long extension so I could keep the socket wrench under the dash with enough room to turn it.
IT's easy.
Just disconnect the battery.
Chock the wheels.
remove the passenger seat
drop the steering column
remove the dash, clean up the wire routing
remove the drivers side door, fix the sloppy hinge
remove the hood
remove the passengers side rear tire, check the emergency brake
remove the entire exhaust and paint it black
detail the engine compartment
repace all the ujoints in the half shafts
send the drive shaft out for polishing
get the diff rebuilt and converted to posi
build a new engine, maybe a 406?
Convert the car from automatic to a 4 speed
get new carpet for the interior
buy ( but don't install just yet ) the steeroids rack and pinion conversion
rebuild the brakes
Buy rebuilt brakes from autozone
buy rebuilt brakes from Ecklers
Remove body from frame for cleaning
rebuild front suspension ( since it's so easy now that the body is off
Rebuild the trailing arms
Put the body back on the frame
reassemble the interior
Sure looks nice now. too bad that Brake booster is so ugly, probably should paint it.
I just posted the same question last week, but I asked about the Eastwood kit and doing it on the car. I don't want to remove booster either. The responses were that painting while in the car is a no-no. Some guys said to use Rub-n-Buff. I found it on the web and then bought it last weekend at a local art & crafts sore for $3. I was very impressed. It's Not a factory look but it's much better then rust! I used the Grecian Gold. I put it on an old master cylinder cover and it's ez with No Mess! It's to cold to put it on the booster now. Search for 'rub' http://www.amaco.com/jsps/amacohome.jsp
[QUOTE=OHSIXX]Sounds like getting a root canal would be less painful.
I painted and touched mine up for about 10 years now, and I can say, I am going to put in hydraulic system soon e-nuff....so I really don't give much care about that olde tyme brake booster....
but that's after the headlights, which have been put off in favor of the kitchen, and maybe the hall bath after that, well maybe.....
IT's easy.
Just disconnect the battery.
Chock the wheels.
remove the passenger seat
drop the steering column
remove the dash, clean up the wire routing
remove the drivers side door, fix the sloppy hinge
remove the hood
remove the passengers side rear tire, check the emergency brake
remove the entire exhaust and paint it black
detail the engine compartment
repace all the ujoints in the half shafts
send the drive shaft out for polishing
get the diff rebuilt and converted to posi
build a new engine, maybe a 406?
Convert the car from automatic to a 4 speed
get new carpet for the interior
buy ( but don't install just yet ) the steeroids rack and pinion conversion
rebuild the brakes
Buy rebuilt brakes from autozone
buy rebuilt brakes from Ecklers
Remove body from frame for cleaning
rebuild front suspension ( since it's so easy now that the body is off
Rebuild the trailing arms
Put the body back on the frame
reassemble the interior
Sure looks nice now. too bad that Brake booster is so ugly, probably should paint it.
I've done it both ways. Painted my old 77 in place...pulled the 72 out. I only pulled the 72's out to install an original headlight vacuum tank so I had no choice. PITA PITNeck PITBack just plain PAIN!!! Leave it in.
Eddie
Hi. New to the forum. Been lurking for a few weeks.
I'm in the process of replacing the booster in my 76. I finally saw the bolts after I removed the A/C duct. Used a wobble extension to get them out. The worst part was removing the clevis from the rod. I got the new booster installed last night and tonight I get to try to put the clip back on. I've only invested 4 hours in this project so far. Kept referencing the AIM, Chiltons, and this forum to see just how this was put together.
I must have missed the class on "evil design" in engineering school.
That top left nut on the booster is a real pita. Especially if you've got a 4 speed, with a neutral saftey switch and the thrid pedal over there things are really really tight. I used every extension in the drawer and a really compact air ratchet to get the bolts out. You can undo the master cylinder bolts and gently pull it back enough to get the booster out. I tied it to the hood support with a shoestring. The only thing that could have made that job any worse was having to finish the day by bleeding the brakes. I did it without removing the dash, column, or seat. Just be prepared to have an aching back and neck for a few days.
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