My 14 inch rotor as it stands without the hat or lightening holes is 15.8

 

looks cool.......... you are way over my head, but i like looking at the custom stuff.... keep it coming....

 

I'm just saying, it seems rather silly to go through the effort of larger rotors to only use an inferior caliper to what is available today. Your only argument is that the car will stop with the stock caliper. Well, it'll stop with the stock rotors too. I just don't know what your goal is, it just seems somewhat contradicting. Almost like you want better braking, not the best, just slightly improved. When you go out and try the system and not really feel much of an improvement are you going to feel disappointed (not saying that it will in fact happen, but one cannot rule out the possibility)?

Won't an organic pad experience fade in a panic stop from 130mph? I recall you saying that that is about the fastest you go.

 

I have to agree with Schmucker here, sometimes Norval doesn't make sense to me either as in I would do it differently...then again,...different strokes.

 

I hope you enjoy your work.

 

I keep hearing "This inferior caliper"" What other then a few pounds is wrong with it??? Aluminum casting are no more rigid then cast iron?? MY pistons are large, huge compared to alot of caliper and I don't have a leaking problem, I don't have a spungy pedal '
Yes I do drive at 130 mph but panic stopping from that is not an option. I wouldn't be going that fast if I couldnot see far in advance.
From 80 mph I can effortlessly lock all 4 wheels with the hydroboost and that one panic stop will not overheat my rotors.
I have run Performance Friction Metalic racing pads and made 3 panic stops from 100 mph and the 3rd stop was the best of them all. The brakes never once felt weak but that is a function of the pads not the calipers that they worked so well after 3 hard hard stops. The interior was filled with smoke, how it gets sucked in the car I don't know.'
Anyway those pads ate the rotors and my rotors are not consumable.
The stock calipers set up properly work fine, weight being the ONLY shortcomming. Pads, I want to save my rotors and in that one panic stop, the organic pads will match the metallic, not the next few but that one cold panic stop.
I don't race, I don't repeatedly hammer on the brakes, I drive better then that.
Guys If I believed my calipers were inferior I would buy a better set. I look at them all the time at the speed shop, the light calipers but they instill no confidence in me nor do I drool over them.
MOney is not an issue. If I want it I will get it.

 

I agree, I don't always make sense but my gut feeling is there is nothing wrong with a stock caliper IF set up properly
Roger would love to run them on his CAnscars but they are illegal.
Twin Turbo we have gone around this before but when I pick up those tiny light weight aftermarket rotors they do nothing for me.
For hundreds of dollars I am only getting less weight to my mind, not a superior caliper.
I strong believe that the proportioning/ light switch is a major cause of alot of the guys problems with bleeding brakes, Ditch it and your brakes will improve.

 

Hey norval...

I wonder if you could bond some aluminum fins to the calipers... like the old buick brake drums?

Better heat sink, give some increased cooling for the caliper side!

I agree with the logic though, if you only have to stop it once, the systems peak performance is all that matters... if you can have your cake and eat it to (Decreased rotor wear with less than harsh pads...) you can fry a set and change your shorts after a panic stop!

 

I don't have a prop valve, I had a stewart lock resistant brake valve to keep the rears from locking up.

 

Regardless of what you call it it still has some form of restriction in the line. Real race cars don't run any form of proportioning valve.
It even prevents the pads from comming off quickly.
They run dual master cylinders and a balance bar. They can put more pressure on the back cylinder or less by setting the balance bar.
This means no restrictions in the line and instant pad withdrawl when the brakes are released.

 

How difficult would it be to setup our car with dual master cylinders? Assuming manual brakes of course. Some kind of mounting bracket for the MCs and room for the balance bar linkage...

 

No it's not a restriction, it gives full pressure to the rear brakes, it's sort of a damper, it takes out the pressure spike when applying the brakes. Stewart doesn't make them anymore, someone else does (can't remember name) but it's still called a LRB valve, the nascars have them also. I may run a dual master setup, triple cylinder pedal set (2 brake 1 clutch) because to my horror the hydrobooster doesn't fit, I have the downpipes as tight as I can get them and the master cylinder hits the pipe

 

I would be next to impossible to fit the dual master cylinder setup to our cars. Guys if you want to try something remove that brass whatever you call it and plumb a direct line from the front master to the front brakes and the back of the master to the back master. It is really simple, just a few short lines.
Try it before condemning it.

 

I don't think it is possible. It is not worth it. If you want to experiment remove that brass whatever you call it and try it.

 

It is possible, there's enough room but it involves cutting and drilling the metal plate in the firewall. I'm most likely gonna have to do this. I don't want interior mount cylinders but it looks like there's not too much to choose from without breaking the bank again. There is no reason why 2 MCs won't fit on the front of the firewall. However, it's not worth it if you want it just to mess with it, I'm probably going to have to use that setup or back to the old vac booster (which I don't want), then again I might give a large manual MC a shot first.